• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 511 trouble shifting

My 2012 TE511's clutch started to drag a little and very hard or impossible to find neutral with bike running.
I switched over to the 0/40 mobil 1 today, rode about a 100 miles. Clutch is quieter, neutral can be found while
Engine is running and drag seems to be gone. Dang that Tinken, LOL. I know that you can do some shimming with
Clutch plates, but I think I am good now.
 
I'm glad that worked out for you. You should get several thousand more miles of engine life too. Mobil1 0w40 is really 2.5w40 because it is the European formula. It is actually 1 viscosity thicker @100°C than manufactures specifications.
 
The clutch on my SMR511 has dragged from day 1.
It really does spoil the riding experience, feeling the gears whirl around and clunk, not being able to easily find neutral.
It's been bled by the dealer which improved it for a while but then then it started to creak through the lever when pulled in so the slave cyclinder was changed under warranty.
It's still way from perfect and I'm beginning to thing there is some fundamental design flaw with the whole clutch system.
Last service it had Motorex 10w40 (recommended viscosity) and I top it up with
Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 10W-40 Racing lubricant for race bikes 100% Synthetic – Double Ester

from http://www.opieoils.co.uk/

Opie don't do a 0w40 but do stock a 5w40, do you think that would help?
Opie have some great fact sheets about oil that are worth looking at and summarise by saying
'The viscosity rating of a multi-grade oil is broken down into two parts;
The number before the W is the "winter" or "cold start" rating. The lower the number the thinner the oil. This allows quick flow when the engine is started cold (cold crank). 90% of engine wear happens at this time due to the engine running in a dry state.
The second number is the viscosity rating of the oil at 100 C. The higher the number the thicker the oil. If the oil is too thick for the temperatures your engine is running at, the oil will not circulate freely. If it's too thin, it may not lubricate effectively'
 
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your clutch as well. Even though the Motorex brand displays the 10w40 specification, it is really just a ball park figure. Motorex typically runs on the thicker side of the scale, meaning a 10w40 is actually closer to at 10w50. The 300V 10w40 is closer to specification. The reason why the zero weight oils work well with the clutches and transmissions is because when cold, they have a viscosity of 40 versus a viscosity of 150-200 for the ten weight oils. This allows the oil to flow in between and "hydroplane" the pressure plates for a smooth release. Opie oils does carry the 0w40 specification as I have linked below. The Mobil 1 is the least expensive of the oils below and has been tested to work well in the 449/511. I recommend trying the Mobil1 and if you are still having clutch drag, a different sized pressure plate may be your best option.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68959-mobil-1-0w-40-new-life-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

Other 0w40 oils for reference:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-74037-motul-300v-0w-40-trophy-racing-engine-oil.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68993-m...-high-power-petrol-and-diesel-engine-oil.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69382-castrol-edge-0w-40-fst-a3b4-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

On a side note, I found some Motul oil, 5w40 (cSt72), which actually has an even lower starting viscosity than Mobil1 0w40(cSt78). Oddly enough, the numbers on the bottle are just ball park figures and are not exact specifications.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-909-mot...or-race-bikes-100-synthetic-double-ester.aspx

Edit: The original specification for the BMW Kymco engine is 5w40, not 10w40. :thumbsup:
 
Cheers Tinken. I think I will go for the Motul 5w40 as I already have used the 10w40.
Anyone who is in the UK, I would definitely recommend Opie Oils, they do a huge range (including plugs and filters) with regular discounts on price and delivery.
I don't suppose it really helps that my bike is parked outside all year under a cover and not cossetted in a garage!
 
+1 on the Mobil1 0w40. I have been running it in my 2011 TE449 and having good results for the last 6 months. I have been a fan of Mobil1 for the last 5 years or so running it in both my KTM 400 EXC and my Triumph Tiger 955i. So far no engine problems with any of these bikes and LOTS of miles. My .02
 
My 511 clutch has always dragged a bit from new. The only problem that causes is difficulty finding neutral. The transmission shifts beautifully. A lot of the time I up shift clutch less.

The bike has a bit over 3000 kms on it. Today I got out for the first ride of the season and the clutch seems to be slipping a bit in the first few gears under max throttle. The only change was fresh oil over the winter but it is the same oil I have used in several previous oil changes. Interestingly the clutch still drags a bit.

Anyone had clutch slippage with their 511?
 
If it is your main clutch, I would take it to get it inspected or take it out yourself and look for abnormal damage/wear.
 
Weird thing. I rode the bike all day and worked through the FI controller to get it running better. Once it was fueling better the sensation of clutch slip went away. Suggesting the clutch was never slipping and that feeling was all on how the motor was making power. Apparently too lean makes the engine feel like crap.
 
I haven't logged too many miles yet. I'm trying to get the feel of my newly acquired 2011 te449 before making changes but, that shift lever does seem like it needs to be turned down a hair. The shifting isn't too slick if I have to consciously yank upward to make my gear changes.

I thought it was just me, but after a brief street ride today, the wrenches are coming out. The brake pedal too may get the same treatment. This is strange because visually, the controls are where I usually set them - level with my pegs.
 
I like the Motul V300 5W40, it's thinner at start-up than my Mobil1 0W40, but the down side is that it costs more than three times as much per quart. The 10w40 300V is slightly thicker, but not noticeably. I think that a lot of the clutch drag has to do with the oil jet off of the Eaton pump #2 which sprays the clutch. The heavier oils cannot pass through this fine "carburetor sized" oil jet in sufficient quantities at lower oil temperatures to allow for proper operation. BMW's original specification for the Kymco was 5w40, but later added 10 and 15 weights.
 
I'm in Queensland Australia where we rarely get under 20C. Mid August I'll be moving back to Denmark where we rarely get over 20C - reckon i should go down to a 5W40 then?
 
It wouldn't matter. It would be fine to run that particular 5w40 now, it's still 40 weight. Several people on here, including Kelly, run 30 weight just fine, I just haven't personally tested it, so I can't recommend it. Those two 300V weights are very close to specification. :thumbsup:

The thinner your oil is, while still maintaining minimum pressure, the more "protection" your engine will have and the better it will function.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top