2010 510 dying at idle

[Mik-3]

I could not find topic. I had to make a new

Has anyone had problems with that injector bike, winter standstill.
-It is not idle.
-It poor start some time, choke, or without it some time, some time to offer A bit of gas.
Choppy-driving some time, dies in speed some time, firing exhaust.
At times, bit-fuel smells / feels that it might be run thick.
Changed to a new plug some time, also cas gasoline tank
I try set idle but did not benefit. The bike is a standard full-power.

It is viewed i-beat system some time, there was nothing wrong with it.
PCV seemed to produce the TPS sensor some time, it moved in himself forward.

Ps. sorry my bad english writing skills, I hope someone understands

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Blocked air flow? Something inside the intake manifold?

 

[Mik-3]

Perhaps, I thought of that myself, I have not had the time watch there

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Also, read this thread, some of the stuff he said about his bike sounds like some of your stuff.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/08-te450-non-consistant-running.24185/

 

[Mik-3]

Thank you, that when I read so sounds the same. I got all times the problem. Of course if that fuel pump has probably reached its limits. Or, the filter.
Here is my fuel pump, its little different, like my brothers fuel pump

This fuel pump mode had already been made at the factory, I'll take that pump off, and I will take the whole unit out of carb/injector
Can the pump to do the test so that the pump is disconnected from the fuel tank

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

I have never seen a fuel pump assembly with that black curtain around the bottom, is that thing sealed down at the flange, I mean, how does gasoline get to the bottom of the silver cylinder fuel pump?

The assemblies that we see are open and accessible, I would be thinking about getting rid of that black curtain. And then I would be changing the fuel pump strainer and the fuel filter.

 

[Mik-3]

Yes, it gets over there, I've been driving often almost end fuel, and working well
My importer does not sell parts separate at that fuel pump, consider buying the entire fuel pump. Where parts may be ordered, how much to pay, what is the picture, that big and baggy filter.
Should I replace that fuel pump at the same time, should also change the the injector.

Is not there I Beat The system see if there is something wrong with the example, the TPS sensor, caspump, injector?
If so, then it sees that the predicted the fault is in those filters

 

[Mik-3]

Well, survived the failure. I do not know what I did to it. I disassemble bike and and clean all, but not found any fault or jam of any

 

[benwiggin2]

I hope you have positive good luck and get it fixed.

 

[Mik-3]

Yes i have now. I like so much about it. The only thing that is bad is that sometimes impoter service, maintenance side is better and that I have to ask the price of each spare part separately.
And to think with an open mind because that is a new technology, on the bike, there are no more old technology.
I do not know what else supermoto bike would have bought, when I bought this, this bike met all sides.

 

[Mik-3]

I do not know how to explain this in simple terms. (1900 rpm is idle)
This fault is not lost, makes the range so that it has a very low idle, shuts down when put in gear and starts to move, you some times feel a little balanced gas run baadly, take a lot of gasoline, more than before.
The same if you turn and you start to open the throttle, then the throttle has empty. Feels like that fall at down

 

[sharpie1]

Check your coil, mine went bad and had the same symptoms. In mine the primary winding was good but the secondary winding was going bad causing erratic spark.

Here is the way the manual say to check it:
Ignition coil resistance check
To gain access to the electronic coil (1) remove the saddle and the fuel tank (see
pages E.15-E.23). Detach the ignition coil from main wiring harness. Remove the
fastening screws, the ignition coil then measure the resistance in the primary and
secondary windings using a tester.
- Primary winding resistance: 4.5 Ω ±15% a 20°C.
- Secondary winding resistance: 5 KΩ ±20% a 20°C (without spark plug cap
cable).
If the resistance is not between the specified values, replace the electronic coil.

 

[Mik-3]

Thanks for info, Must try that.
But it's miraculous problem occurred because the bike has been a winter stand.

 

[Mik-3]

Now that I have measured the coil, both readings were 19.7 Ohm. Now i measured my brother coil, both readings were 20.3 Ohm. I did not dare to put part of the bike. If it also breaks down
Would someone else to measure his own coil

New plug broken around 450 km driven. CR8EB NGK R spark plug.
I got the new spark plug, and run off a bit.
Does not work on a steady throttle, no matter what gear or rpm


PS I will take bike to the importer. I hope there is clear fault

 

[Mik-3]

Well I got bike back today., Efi system has 4 different sensor and one of them was broken. Ibeat does not show which one and it it cannot be changed separetaly so they changed the whole Efi system. Which was nice. Idle was too rich compared to standard values
Bike is working great

That liquid clutch is coming to the end, it has been eating there for piston surface coatings from the inside

 

[Mik-3]

It broke again, I was about to leave the traffic lights and let the clutch, it turn off out and started anymore, I tried choke and I changed a new spark plug... No promises, even,tried keep running when but if you tach gas turns off immediately

 

[Mik-3]

It broke again, I was about to leave the traffic lights and let the clutch, it turn off out and started anymore, I tried choke and I changed a new spark plug... No promises, even,tried keep running when but if you tach gas turns off immediately

I got bike back, they not found nothing wrong from the bike, when the bike was in a workshop. Yes, it works just fine now, so far