• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 1994 wxe360 --> 2011 wr300 plastics & radiators

i agree, i think the 92-94 are one of the sharpest huskies ever made....swedish, italian, or austrian.
i have my chassis set up and everything..kind of invested into the machine, and i have several sets of the 95 plastic to sell.



does that make you a hoarder :eek:
 
I'm invested in my 95 only because you'll get f-all for them if l was to sell in OZ...and personally, l still think the motor creams even the modern day 300's...maybe l'm bias:D
 
I'm invested in my 95 only because you'll get f-all for them if l was to sell in OZ...and personally, l still think the motor creams even the modern day 300's...maybe l'm bias:D

You don't get much for these bikes elsewhere in the world either. I only ended up with my 360 because it was so cheap. I bought it as a spare bike I could loan to friends, but I ended up liking it enough that I when I decided I didn't need spare bikes for friends, I sold my KTM. I'm probably slower on the 360, but it makes a terribly fun woods bike.
 
Had a productive evening. Radiators have 4 of their 6 mounts permanently installed. Main tank support is tacked in place. Voltage regulator has been moved from where I had planned to put it in front of the the head tube to the side of the frame. Horn has been mounted. Made a pair of 1/4" bar risers. Mounted CDI,and figured out where I can put the coil. I took pics, but they will go up tomorrow. It is 3:15am, and I'm tired.
 
As promised, pics!

This is the best I can come up with for the coil and cdi mounting. No room for the coil in the original spot with the radiator and tank mounts. The tank mount is just sitting on the tube in this pic. I apparently didn't take a pic after tacking.

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This is my solution for a rubber at the rear of the tank. It is a tank mount rubber from the later bikes. I drilled and tapped a hole in line with the backbone and used a fender washer under the rubber. Seems to put things in a pretty good spot. The rubber from the '94 is too thick.

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everything is finding a place now that the radiators are on. The horn is threaded into the old hole for the factory voltage regulator. I mounted the reg/rectifier on the opposite side of the frame by drilling/tapping two holes. Of course they are positioned where they hit the tube inside the gusset portion of the frame.

horn hoses.jpg

Things are cozy, but everything fits. I'm amazed I was able to use all the factory style hoses. I don't have the hose/nipple from the rad filler neck on in this pic, but it has plenty of room to clear the frame. I'm also happy that I'm able to remove the radiator cap without taking the tank off. Wasn't sure how all that was going to work out when I started.

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And last, the 1/4" risers. I don't remember what bend bars I'm running, but at full lock i had less than 1/16" between the end of the handguard mounting bolts and the tank after grinding off the excess thread. 1/4" was what would work with the original bolts so that is what I made at 2am. I have a pic, but I can only do 4 in a post. They are aluminum, round, and have a hole in the middle. That is about all. I'm sure you can visualize something close.
 
Don't they have steering stops on the older bikes? Lookin good mate!

Steering stops, yes. Adjustable stops, no. Apparently they have them on the 2012 (per the pic stolen from ebay), but when exactly they started, no idea. I suppose I should clarify though that it is the inner bracket for the handguard. I have my bars cut down to 29.5" for a little extra room in tight woods. Were they standard width, the guards would be further out, and I would not have had any clearance issues.

All I have is the welded tab stop. 1994 didn't get the sweet adjustable ones like this:

stops.jpg

And while I'm posting pics, the spacers:

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Bike is done. The final push took a bit, but I rode it around the yard earlier today. I'll eventually post info about what I ran into at the end, but I'm tired at the moment. I'll be doing a shakedown run Saturday morning if the national Forest trails are open, and I leave for big bend ranch state park a week from today (Thursday).
 
Good effort taps, now the main thing is was it all worth it?
Eh, sure? I have hoses I can buy replacements for. I have radiators I can replace for $100. Complete plastics for $150ish. Also plastics that are made by several companies so I'm not dependent on DC plastics. I can access my sparkplug without removing the tank. Way more modern feel to the ergos. Bike looks much more modern too. I also had a good time figuring everything out.

Trying to do the work with a deadline and only being able to work at night for the most part, that was not fun. You have to make the mounts for almost every attaching point, and the stuff touches in lots of places.

The job would be less complicated with a stock tank and no radiator guards, but I wanted the fuel capacity and didn't want to buy radiators too often (even if they are cheap.)

Am I happy with the result? Yes. Would I recommend someone else do the same? No -- unless they just want to.
 
I'm trying to think back to what I encountered as I finished up...

This is the tank/seat hold down I came up with. This is actually round 2 with the top piece of aluminum above the rubber made as one piece instead of the two piece setup I used while working out the spacing. The seat pin should probably be about 1/8-1/4" further forward. The seat takes some work to install, but it definitely stays put. I located the mounting boss by sighting through the tank hole, and I made it so the bolt could be fully tightened and slightly compress the rubber hold down. And yes, that is the same rubber from the other tank mounts. I ended up having to go back to the thicker '94 tank rubber at the rear of the tank for the tank to fit the best.

seat.jpg

seat 2.jpg

Behind the rubber in the pic below is a 3.5" extension tube I made from some 7/8" aluminum bar stock. This allowed sit fully on the mounts. Of course the lowest clamp is perfectly inline with the support for the rad guards. Left side cleared everything fine because the tank has a recess at that point. Right side does not. The clamps have to be clocked just so, and the tank still pushes the right hose forward a touch. The rubber should keep the clamp from vibrating against the tank.

hose.jpg

I also swapped out the throttle assy and cable. That turned into a huge cluster, but after modifying everything in the assy, it works nicely. It is a quicker throttle which I will either get used to or I'll spend a lot of time watching my bike fly out from underneath me. Mounted the tank bag and did final touches on the wiring. Besides sliming the tires, I can't think of anything else I need to do before I leave.

Random: Wolfman enduro tank bag is perfect size for two 1L fuel cans.

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And I still have not painted the pipe. Considering I finished this morning at 5am, I'm okay with an ugly pipe.
 
Shakedown run saw no major mishaps. Only thing I encountered was the rear tire removing the sticker on the inside of the silencer when the suspension was fully compressed. I added 1/4" spacer to move it further towards the side panel, and all is good. I was initially concerned about whether I would like the quicker throttle, but after 2 hours on the bike in slippery clay and sand, I do like it. I can go a gear high to make it less twitchy or run in a "normal" gear if I want it to have more snap. Ergos are good, and I'm happy.

Thanks to everyone who helped in this little adventure!
 
I used a fast action trials throttle, to me mine was more restrained, tired the slow action one but that took ages to wind up.

P.s. just edited post to actually read like I ment it too.
 
I used a fast action trials throttle too me mine more restrained, tired the slow action one but that took ages to wind up.

That is basically why I changed in the first place. The thing was almost a bit boring with the stocker.
 
Returned from 2 days of riding (+2 days travel) at Big Bend Ranch State Park yesterday evening. Riding was fun, and the bike did really well. I ran out of gas one time, but I made it back because my riding buddy had spare gallon in addition to my spare 1/2 gallon. I had a fouled plug on the morning of day 2 after a long low RPM cruise back on the main park road at the end of day 1. I had my fuel mixed with a bit extra oil since I wasn't sure what the mix would end up like when adding in extra fuel out on the trail, and that resulted in expected additional spooge. I'm not sure the riding warrants 11+ hours of driving to get there, but I can now check BBRSP off my list.

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Random note for future generations: I realized yesterday that the subframe I ended up using was from a tc450. Uses the same airbox, plastics, and seat, but I wonder if a subframe from a 2t would have had the lower mounting points correct. I wasn't able to source one from a WR at the time I was working on the bike. Oh well.

Just sayin'
 
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