• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1983 510 4T

watto450

watto450

Husqvarna
AA Class
hello I am about to tear into my 83 510 4T engine.. anything that I need to look out for..?? Anything that is a common problem..?? I have the workshop supplement for this engine.. so all good there..
 
I'm not an expert on these at all, but based on everything I've read, you should replace the valves with new forged stainless steel ones like sold by HVA-Factory.
 
bag ignitions & burnt valves, are know problems, I used Kimblewhite valves on mine.

Husky John
 
Yep, ignition already taken care of..it has a Ducati ignition on it... still SEM tho...?? interestingly enough..when it came to time to using a puller to get the flywheel off.. the old 70's FEMSA puller fitted ...:applause:
 
Yes, Use one piece Valves, as the ones they came with had the valve head welded to the stem and they have given the sort of trouble that you don't need!

Also, We run a bit more valve clearance to make hot starting a little easier...

We have experimented with hot start devices too to weaken the mixture when really hot. This is the main cause of starting difficulty - along with poor starting technique!

Use modern fully Synthetic oil and change it every ride. Also, keep the filter screen in the cylinder clean. This 12mm hex rounds off easily, so we have made 17mm hex Ti replacements...

If you are using a foam air filter - make sure you fit a flashback mesh screen between the filter and the inlet boot to help prevent a fire!

All available of of the website...

Andy Elliott.
 
Thanks Andy.. I just bought a gasket kit from you ..along with some Ti Ohlins bottom bolts.. (Thanks for the T shirt)...So..how much difference in valve clearance are we talking about...?? I have a K&N airfilter..and a screen.....:)
 
Spent all afternoon on Monday sandblasting.. frame and swing arm already done... anyone have any ideas on what to do for piston rings should I need them..??
 
Anyone able to tell me the size of the seal behind the ignition..in the "good old days" the parts book would specify the size...
 
I have a spare parts manual.. but.. the sizing of the seals are not quoted any more.. back in the 60's the parts manuals also had the size and length of bolts as well... buy not anymore ( 80's)..
 
Have many manuals downloaded for free. thanks to everyone.. BUT.. can anyone tell me the size of the seal..?? Please..
 
On my 510, I have a 25x35x7.
From memory the 510 normal size is 25x35x6.
But in industry seals you find easely 7 mm not 6.
So I put a 7 mm instead of the 6 mm with no problems.
DSCN2622 - Copie.JPG
 
Thanks Michel.. so..as an example a 1977 390 seal is 25x36x6 and is part # 29 65 444-01, but the 510 seal is the same size as quoted by you.. is part # 15 13 725-01... I wonder why that is..??
 
Finally got 510 apart.. rocker roller tips seem a little loose... anyone know of where to get replacement tips....?? Also a cam-chain.. Any help with where to source replacement items would be appreciated
 
Black Diamond chain from any good bearing or engineering supplier is suitable for timing chain. Buy a roll of their best quality stuff - not the cheap type. Will cost about $120 from memory. Enough for several chains.

Roller tips? The rollers that run on the cam lobe or the threaded adjusters that push on the valve stem? If the rollers then I expect they are just SKF ball bearings.
 
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