• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1983 500CR Race Bike Project

Tommyboy

Tommyboy

Husqvarna
AA Class
I am starting on a build, resurrecting a 1983 Husqvarna 500CR to race in the Florida Trial Riders Hare Scrambles Series. The non running bike consisted of a rolling chassis with a motor and has been sitting for some time. I currently race a Maico in the evolution series and am planning to assemble the Husqvarna so I'll have two bikes available depending on the course conditions.

I started cleaning up the frame and will be dropping off the motor next week at a local shop to have it evaluated and rebuilt to stock condition. Since I will be racing the bike, Ill be painting the frame instead of powder-coating.

I recently joined this forum and have been getting a number of ideas of what the finished project might entail and look like. Ill take some pics so you can get an idea of what I have in case anyone has some suggestions.

Tommyboy
 
Go for it! It is always a laugh beating people on new machinery on 30 year old bikes!

Good luck with the project.

Andy Elliott
 
The motor was torn apart and everything in the lower end looks good. We are replacing the crankcase bearings and seals plus all the needle bearings. Will have the cylinder looked at and will need a new top end kit. I'm also planning to install a compression release in either the head or cylinder for ease of starting or restarting on those long two hour hare scrambles. The paint is just about off the frame. I'm thinking about going the non traditional route with the frame color and go with a dark silver paint. Will see what it looks like after I get done with the gray primer coat. Will take some pictures this weekend.
 
I took this picture to document my progress.

The bearings and seal arrived from Hall's Husqvarna and taken to the shop. The motor was disassembled and the lower end all looked good. Once the bottom end is completed we will start with the top end modifications. I'm sanding down the frame and will be spray priming the frame this weekend after I get the sanding completed. huskyproject.png
 
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I'm thinking about running CR fenders, the aluminum tank with oval number plates. Getting away from the large side number plates. Just looking to be a little different. Nothing radical. Don't think the 81 or 82 side number plates fit with a different frame and air box set up. Anyone know for sure? Thanks, Tom
 
DC plastics makes the side panel number plates for the 81/82 CR's.
I used an 84/89 front fender and trimed an 85/88 XC-CR Husky rear fender and made it fit my 79 390CR. The side number pates are mounted with brackets I made.

Joes390ReadytoRace005.jpg
 
The plates on the frame look elongated where the swing-arm bolt goes through them. Is there a fix for this other then welding a steel washer to the frame plate?
 
I am currently dealing with that issue. I am making some guide plates to open hole on location and weld a new flush plug with the hole size restored. Regardless of how you look at it , it will involve welding. Make sure the swingarm bearings are nice and free.
 
Yea, that's it, a bobbed rear loop. Cylinder about done, head is tapped for the compression release. Have to go with the back up cylinder as I'm having trouble finding a stock piston around these parts. The only stock ones I found were across the big pond.
 
I found a stock Husky piston, had it shipped here, took it to the machine shop and was advised that the cylinder was out of round and wouldn't properly fit the stock Mahle piston. I kept the piston and ordered a Wossner and now that's at the machine shop getting fitted to the cylinder.
 
Next step is to repair the oblong holes on the frame where the swingarm fits. Wear and tear has made the holes oblong.
 
I wish I had never seen one. Now I've just got to have one and I can't find one!!! :excuseme:
Good luck and have fun with the resto.
 
Tommyboy said:
Next step is to repair the oblong holes on the frame where the swingarm fits. Wear and tear has made the holes oblong.
Click to expand...
If you do not care about the appearance you can make a solid repair by welding hardened washers over the elongated holes. Use the mounted engine with the swingarm bolt to locate the washer over the elongated hole. Tack weld, confirm placement, then lay a solid penetrating bead around the washer. TIG weld would be best but can also use MIG if you get the right amount of weld penetration.

My proceedure that I developed with cutting out the damage and flush welding would be if you need a correct restoration. You seem to be interested in building a racer so welding a washer that fits the pivot well is a common repair I have seen
 
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