• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 144 kit installed! Thanks to the help from Cafe Husky

Boosted Josh

Husqvarna
AA Class
Thanks to the install threads on the forum and the help identifying a couple parts in my thread this past weekend I'm happy to say that I got the 144 kit installed without any problems.

I'd never done a top end on a bike before so I was a little apprehensive about tearing into it but I took my time and everything went smoothly.

It was already dark by the time I had it buttoned up on Sunday so I only had a chance to run it through one heat cycle and check for leaks and proper operation.

I gave the metering rod on the Lectron a 1/2 turn clockwise (rich) based on the color of my spark plug base ring and the assumption that the 144 kit would need more fuel (I may be wrong here) throttle response was nice and crisp while in neutral and the idle was good but it was a little crackly when rolling on the throttle before it would "clear its throat" and go. I wasn't going past 1/2 throttle, I just rolling on it easily riding up and down my street. Once I get a chance to ride the bike I'll fiddle with it a bit more. The ground strap was light brown color and looked pretty much right to me, if anything it might be just slightly on the lean side of perfect.

I also installed a WR fuel petcock so now I have reserve which I've been meaning to do for a while. Less stressful not having to worry about forgetting to check my fuel level, running out, and then having to push the bike back to the house or truck.

And I installed a 12T countershaft sprocket. I'll see how 12/50 (4.17) gearing works with the 144 and go from there. If it's too short I picked up a 51T rear from Hall's so I can always try 13/51 (3.92). I was planning going to go 12/51 with the stock displacement but then just decided to put the 144 kit in. I'm about 200lbs and I've been riding behind my house cutting my own trails where it's very steep and overgrown so having more power and torque will keep me from frying my clutch.


I took some pics along the way to help me out if I forgot how something went together and while I'm sure all of this stuff can be found in other threads I figure maybe these will help someone in the future.


Power Valve linkage

8ECD9255-C705-4092-85BE-C50A23A668CE_zps8rfdfpou.jpg



Power valve cover removed

CEF15671-8FFF-4673-B8FA-74EE9C4E8F07_zps2hcmttsk.jpg



Power valve rod removed. This shows the spot where the grub screw goes in to secure the lever to to rod. Kelly mentioned it in his thread so I took a pic of it.

48C823A2-86EB-43CF-8127-C3900BFB2B8D_zpsle2u7itn.jpg



Power valves removed

95490E38-364B-4EAC-BBCF-34B1FCD322AE_zpszhod6tz0.jpg



125 jug vs new 144 jug

Included with the base gasket and new o-rings for the head was a small metal dowel and a black rubber grommet/bushing. Thanks to help here on the forum I knew what they were for before opening everything up. The metal dowel goes in that small hole on what would be the left side of the bike between the top and bottom power valve cover bolt holes. It keeps the power valve rod in place. The black grommet/bushing goes in on the right side of the bike where the rod exits. I put a small amount of waterproof grease on it before installing it. The o-ring where the rod exits gets swapped over.

Also that metal ring at the bottom of the picture goes in the exhaust. It would be easy to overlook if you didn't know it was there.

EB45C26A-959A-4738-B70F-462997FABABA_zpsmuy3oybe.jpg



Metal dowel and black grommet were in this bag.

04035DBE-7839-44FB-96BB-3D2761B1270A_zpsmpju2iyf.jpg



125cc piston on top 144cc piston on bottom.
Interesting that the 125cc piston has holes in it (presumably to get oil to the wrist pin??) and the 144cc piston doesn't.

735539BB-5E79-44CF-A052-CC30C85D7BC3_zpskrtitajq.jpg



Piston removed, wrist pin bearing removed, old rag in place to keep anything out of the bottom end.

F8967E8D-78A3-41C9-A32C-BCA6359E0339_zpsz4bdunyl.jpg





So the hardest parts were the install for me were:

Installing circlips in the new piston while trying not to scratch or gouge anything all while trying get the gap at either 12 or 6.

And

The removal of the old base gasket. I probably spent 30 minutes with a razor blade trying to make sure I got it completely clean. On a side note I installed the base gasket dry, I couldn't figure out if it needed any oil or grease. My internet search was inconclusive with some saying dry and some saying to wet. I decided to go with dry because the gasket had that red ring imbedded in it. Hopefully that is the correct way.
 
In your first picture of the PV assembly, the thin gold colored plate next to the seal is where I use the thin 13mm Park wrench while I'm adjusting the tension on the upper 'forked' spring. You want to make sure you have that spring preloaded to prevent the power valves from fluttering. Search the forum for better info on that adjustment. Felt good wrapping that job up I bet! Ride safe.
 
I did my top end only two weeks ago, piston swap, but I couldn't work out how to remove the powervalves. I see they are attached to that rod item via a small screw, but there is a clip in the middle that grabs around the rod, how does that come off? I tried nose pliers flat screw drivers but it seems very stuck on. I installed my base gasket dry too, never used anything wet, think they only go on one way too, juicy told me they can't go on the wrong way because of the dowels, I have mine with the red bit touching the bottom as it had red bits stuck on it when I took off the old one
 
I did my top end only two weeks ago, piston swap, but I couldn't work out how to remove the powervalves. I see they are attached to that rod item via a small screw, but there is a clip in the middle that grabs around the rod, how does that come off? I tried nose pliers flat screw drivers but it seems very stuck on. I installed my base gasket dry too, never used anything wet, think they only go on one way too, juicy told me they can't go on the wrong way because of the dowels, I have mine with the red bit touching the bottom as it had red bits stuck on it when I took off the old one


there is a flat spot shown above in the pictures. Rotate the shaft til the flat spot lines up and pull it out.
 
In your first picture of the PV assembly, the thin gold colored plate next to the seal is where I use the thin 13mm Park wrench while I'm adjusting the tension on the upper 'forked' spring. You want to make sure you have that spring preloaded to prevent the power valves from fluttering. Search the forum for better info on that adjustment. Felt good wrapping that job up I bet! Ride safe.

Thanks, I read up on them adjustment after you recommend picking up the wrench. Upon reassembly I did adjust it slightly. Based on the threads I read about the PV adjustment I didn't want to go too far and keep them from opening fully, so I moved it to about 3/4ths of the way up the slot.
 
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