• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

'12 TXC 310 Oil Change

okiehusky

Husqvarna
A Class
Am I the only one playing hell trying to get the drain plug out of the back of the motor? I'm begining to think they tack welded that mother in! And I don't see a crush washer either. I'm worried about rounding off the plug too since it's pretty soft aluminum. And with the tube & bypass hose, you can't get a socket on it. What have you savvy folks had to do in such a situation? And she really needs some fresh oil. And yes, this is the first oil change on her. Help me Mr. Wizard!
 
Not enough room between the plug and the frame components. Nor anywhere else for that matter. A standard socket and ratchet won't even fit in there.
 
Tried that too. With the aluminum tube sticking out of the plug and the lack of clearance you can't get the angle to get the box end over it. And the line is semi rigid so you can't pull it off and move it to the side. It runs from the back of the motor to the front of the cylinder base along the frame rail. Still haven't quite figured out what that bypass is for. Unless since it's a bored 250 motor to supply extra lube to the cylinder.
 
Tried that too. With the aluminum tube sticking out of the plug and the lack of clearance you can't get the angle to get the box end over it. And the line is semi rigid so you can't pull it off and move it to the side. It runs from the back of the motor to the front of the cylinder base along the frame rail. Still haven't quite figured out what that bypass is for. Unless since it's a bored 250 motor to supply extra lube to the cylinder.

Might need to get out the grinder and "customize" a wrench for the job. Call Hall's or BMP and ask how they do it?
 
Yes it is tight in there...there is a screen behind the drain plug too....wait till you try to get that out!


The crush washer is most likely stuck to the engine case in the recess provided for it.

The whole hose contraption is to keep the oil from being blown out the head vent and into the airbox like the 2010 models. Search the forum here...I guess you could put a simple 2010 drain plug in it and route the breather tube to the airbox like a 2010 set up. Someone must have done it.
 
Interesting............I've heard stories about the screen. Of course, I haven't seen the damned thing yet! I may just take it to the shop and tell 'em to have at it with the caveat of no air tools! They may have done that at the factory and used some areospace super duper thread lock goop.
 
Like many fasteners from the factory some may be overly tight and initial loosening should be done with the right tool or risk stripping/rounding the part. I was able to loosen mine with an OEM '70's Honda 12mm open ended wrench but immediately went to Sears and purchased a better quality open/closed end 12mm wrench. The closed end's teeth are flush so you can get maximum bite on the nut if you do remove the hose first. If you can get it off in the first place, snug it back with the tool you plan to use in the future so it's not over torqued.
 
I have SK tools, using the 12mm open end. The wrench didn't distort, even with a cheater. But I could feel the edges of the plug deforming. So I called it a bust. If it's gonna get buggared up, the shop can do the buggaring. Savvy?
 
The shop fianlly got 'er out. And to quote the mechanic, "What a Bee-Otch!" Of course it was bugared beyond recognition. For those of us who are savvy-FUBAR! But, now all is right with the world. Let's Ride!
 
There was a shop bike ('13TXC310) sitting there with a stuck motor, so they swiped the drain plug off of it. Good as new. And speaking of the shop bike, the guy told me kind of a bizarre story. He said the gas tank had 'somehow' lowered itself on the mounts and pinched a coolant hose on the head, rubbing a hole in it. Hence, puking all of the coolant out resulting in the melt down. Said he didn't notice anything until she stuck. Pretty bizarre I thought. #1-could he not smell it? #2-not notice a dramatic loss of power pretty damned quick? And #3-didn't notice that things were getting HOT between his legs? At least I got a drain plug out of it. Which was good since there were none. As in Nodda, Zilch, Zippo, Zero, in their parts inventory. And now, a 6 point 12mm deep socket and box end wrench are my friends. The End.
 
OK. Now I've got to take a peak at my '12. Haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary going on under there, but that doesn't mean it's not. Other than it's tighter than it should be. Thanks for the thread link JohnR!
 
RCT-I'll try. Mike-it's the latest in Anglo European 2 wheeled verhicle propulsion technology! You should have known..................
 
I was not trying to be smart.
I guess two two wheel drive is not as good as two engings. Two engines would be like steering a scraper in the wet, power through the turn, yep yah! Get r done!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 24
Back
Top