Zip-Ty recirculation tank fittings positions

Greetings:

Just got my oil recirculation kit for my TE 449 yesterday, and I have two questions. First, would someone please confirm placement of the drain-back hose on the left side of the engine? Last I read here is that Ty moved it from the drain plug to the the next hole, which is the rear screen filter.

The other question is - in other pictures I've seen of others' set-ups, the two upper fittings on the tank face in different directions, with no two tanks identical. The fittings on mine are quite solidly mounted (with thread sealant), so I don't know if I should try to rotate them for better routing positioning. Am I supposed to just use them as originally configured?

Thank you. It was your last post on "Oil levels post Zip-Ty Oil Recirculation Kit installation" that said it was like this. I wasn't sure if there was anything superseding it.

Before I go out and buy a Torx bit to fit all 11 screws on the tank, so I can investigate how the fittings are mounted, how do I go about swiveling them? I am concerned about breaking them if I try. Please see picture of overhead view of tank, showing fittings orientation. Do they appear to be correctly positioned?

The kit didn't include any hose clamps or a mounting bolt. Is it just the one bolt holding it on, in conjunction with friction between the head half-moons and tank, and the hoses supporting to a certain extent?

Okay. Thanks. I'm now waiting for a stainless steel oil filter, magnetic oil fliter cap, and aluminum filler cap from Zip-Ty, then I'll install the kit and do an oil change at the same time. I got some Mobil 1 European 0w40. Luckily, I have a drill press. I'll hunt down a mounting bolt, and I can use some Loctite 243 I just got for my rotor bolts.

For those who have drilled their valve covers off-set, they might be able to enlarge the bolt hole through the breather, so that it can be off-set, and just use a longer bolt with a metal washer on top of a rubber one, vs. an o-ring.

Separately, some have complained about the return line hindering access to the other filter (or both, for kits connected to the drain hole), but it's extremely simple. First of all, it's not like it is being done every 20 minutes, so an extra minute every 300 miles (for example) shouldn't be a big deal. Second, all one has to do is loosen the AN fitting nut first, then remove the fitting in the rear filter hole. The AN nut doesn't need to be removed, but loosening it will allow the nut to spin freely and the hose to float (vs. twisting) while the fitting is removed from the case, which is required to remove/clean/replace the filter screen. When replacing, tighten the fitting into the case, adjust hose position, then tighten AN nut. Done like breakfast!

Since I've got you on the line, I sent a PM to Coffee, asking if I could relate an abysmal business transaction with a particular vendor, as I wasn't sure if it was allowed or appropriate, but I've not received a reply. I want others to know what I encountered, because others need to know about it. I don't want it to be that this jackass got away with semi-murder, and that I'm the only one who knows. I would hope that my story would prevent problems for others. Any thoughts?

hunh.

well, I'm not Newbie, but 1st of all... ....you probably would want to start a new thread. Because if it isn't ZT (and I'm thinking: no way. 'sides, Newbie is sorta an unofficial go-between for ZTR, so you would have that route for a solution) then you wouldn't want to "contaminate" some small business owner's rep with a bitch about another biz in a thread with his name in the title.

I'd be surprised if you heard anything from the caffeinated one. but who knows?

good luck. let us know what's up. gently.

Trenchcoat85:

Okay. Thanks. I will start a new thread where I will say what happened, but not who or what the product/service is, then tell anyone interested to PM me, and I will give them the rest of the info.

I will call it "Customer Service nightmare", in the event you wish to look for and read it.

Did the drain back plug really get moved to the screen fitting? Can any one else confirm this? Mine is connected to the drain plug. Can I use the same an fiting that's attached to my drain plug to fit the screen fiting?

Yes, Ty has e-mailed me a confirmation that the current drain return hose set-up connects to the rear screen filter opening, which is in front of the drain plug, but behind the front screen filter. I don't think the old and new are interchangeable, from what I read previously. Perhaps ZT offers an updated stand-alone fitting.

Why was this changed? Any consequences running it to the drain plug

Here's a link to the thread where it talks about the switched position for the hose:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oi...l-recirculation-kit-installation.44826/page-4

The following is a quote from huskynoobee, the latest post in that thread, from March 26, 2016:

"OK, for everyone who is getting the recent kits, I have the update for you.

According to Ty, the original return to the drain plug caused problems, so he decided to move it to the center filter screen inlet. The main reason is that this is where the Eaton pump is drawing oil from the case. This way, any oil that has collected in the recovery system will be drawn into the pump and prevent build up of residual oil that may be forced into the airbox."

UPDATE: Got the kit installed. As I have previously commented about pictures of others' set-ups, no two tanks had their fittings positioned the same. I routed the breather-to-tank hose as suggested (around the spark plug), but the tank fitting points straight back, and the hose ended up with a kink, due to a too-tight bend going forward to the breather. I massaged the hose, and got it to open up more, but it doesn't appear round - more oval. I will monitor it.

The other thing is - on Zip-Ty's site, there are two reviews of the kit, and one talks about heat shielding for a hose. I didn't receive any shielding, and I did notice that the drain-back to the left side of the engine is precariously close to the exhaust. I moved it away, but it may migrate while riding. Think I need to worry about the hose melting or blistering?

I was worried about this to but the hose has not melted or burned

14te449:

Thanks for your input.

Noob:

Thanks for your reply. I will assume the current configuration doesn't require the mesh or bracket.