Yes is easy change the factory impostation. But..... Do you have a CDI for the united states market? Where do you live ?
I'm from the Netherlands. How do I do that? And how do I know what to change? It runs lean in high, because the airbox is removed. I have Arrow exhaust and Arrow CDI.
have you read all the pages of this post? in the pages there is written how to intervene and the materials that are needed (cable and Ibeat software) What is a CDI arrow? Arrow also builds CDI as well as exhaust systems ??
Yes, I did. I know how to do it, but before I start making a cable, I want to know how easy it is to just adjust some settings in Ibeat (without adjusting them again and again and again). Which settings do I need to adjust, and how do I do that? Arrow didn't make a CDI, but Husqvarna did with special software for the Arrow exhausts.
The base is 100 for idle, 100 for accel, and 100 for high. After you set under your airbo mod and exhaust. I have two exhauslt arrow and ecu europe and pu plug and airbox open mod= my sttings at the time is 100/108/118. Its quickly with tablet pc to set. Sorry for english
Thank you! Is it really that simple? I should only change the setting; 2 and 3? That is it? How do I know it if must be 106, or 112? etc.
Yeah really? Thank you! So I could feel the difference between 114 and 116 setting? Does it have more power in the high's? And does it also has a little higher topspeed? Did you had yours on dyno? How much hp? Your bike is alsmost exactly the same as mine! I have the same decal and same setup. Looks nice!
At the first time you need removed oem exhaust because the catalyser inside is bad for braap braap, after , you need plug the PU plug ( smartmoto on ebay), and for the end, with ibeat, you set at the first ( like dynobob says ) 102/108/116. If your bike smell strong gazoline on idle, set the low on 100, .......... If you want, i sell my jd jetting tuner
I already have every mod (pu kit, arrow, airbox, 42 sprocket etc.) . Now have +/- 60hp (see earlier dyno). Do you really notice any difference with 108/116? I think I don't need the JD tuner (what do you want for it?), because I already have a VAGCOM-cable and I can hopefully fix this.
Buy this : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/122974241931 Is not expansive and is perfect for ibeat
I have an old Windows xp laptop, i will try it in the future and will let you know what my experiences are.
My VAG-COM arrived and it worked straight away, thanks Rotax_655 & everyone else who helped and contributed to this thread, most thanks to eddychecker. I cleared a backlog of temperature sensor faults. The feedback settings are unusual, 94% 120% 115%, i will put the o2 sensor back and set them all to 100%, providing it still works. I think the JD Tuner is better than ibeat
I would get iBeat and go back to your dyno guy to test what fuel settings work best for your bike/ecu/modifications. Adjusting the fueling is easy w/ iBeat, see first page of thread. .
I put the o2 sensor back on, disconnected the JD Tuner, dont know if i needed to do that, flooded my shed with petrol taking the tank off Got all the FB values set to 100% Started to put it back together, but had other things to do, will finish putting it back together tomorrow. This is why i prefer the JD Tuner, adjustment on the fly, no fuss, will probably have to fiddle with the settings once the bike is back on the road.
mine with Jd had a hole in drive in RPM stabilized at 4000rpm, on the road, the bike was "dutt dut, dududuttt dut" ..... without JD, phenomen disapeared
