I bought my SMR449 at the end of 2012 when Western Australia finally came upto par with the rest of the country and beought in LAMS. Meaning on a restricted motorcycle license you were no longer stuck riding 250s and could ride upto a 660cc. When I first bought it home First thing I did was install some Acerbis SM handguards and some graphics to change it up a bit. I also changed the rear 4 piece 2011 fender to the 2012 2 piece fender. To fit the handguards the stock huge brake lever had to be swapped for an ebay special Aprillia RSV lever.
I have a thing for apocalypse spec'd bikes and I want to have a bit of fun offroad so I fitted some MT21's It drew a lot of attention from other riders. The chunky tyres made the steering heavier and in soft beach sand it would track ruts big time! It also had the Husky Hardparts red caps and a red X-ring chain fitted with the first compulsory service.
All ready for a big road trip up North. I finally stashed enough cash to order in an Akrapovic Full Race system. The stock system was absolute rubbish it sounded like an crusty old Victor lawn mower and it didn't go much faster. Took the spark arrestor out aswell to really make it bark!
To get on the track I had to sort out a coolant catch. I found this HRT kit which turned out quite well. I used a fuel tank check for the catch to breathe.
I install a PCV and a TC airbox lid to really get the most out of the bike. With the Maps courtesy of Tinken from ZipTyRacing the bike was totally transformed! To my dismay another guy in the SupermotoWA club had a Tarded TE511 with exactly the same Exhaust and Graphics as me me, so I ordered another set of graphics from Ringmaster and some axle and footpeg sliders from Big Knobz in New Zealand. Went out for some slippery fun in the gravel. And here it is as it sits today after fitting up all the goodies from ZipTyRacing. Which includes Recirc/ breather tank, rear master cylinder cap and a larger brake pedal tip. I once again changed the rear under fender from a 2012 SMR one to a 2012 TC one. Just to remove the tail lights and neaten things up. It required a little modification to fit properly. Where the rounded section is near the fuel tank it was slightly differnt in height, so I cut off and used the original SMR shock protector flap.
I'm also running some RHK billet footpegs, 7602 Radiator braces, oils screen plugs (drilled for lockwiring). G2 quick turn throttle, IronMan 46t rear sprocket, Brembo round rear rotor and a Talon Excel 5" wheel on the rear with sticky GoldSpeed Street Ultra tyres. The front Talon Excel wheel had a TC hub which ment that the wheel spacers weren't right and the rotor was too close to the spokes for the Brembo radial caliper to fit. I have since had an 8mm thick spacer made for the rotor to sit right and a new wheel spacer for the wheel to sit centered between the forks.
I finally got my Talon/Excel front wheel sorted. I got a custom made spacer for the brake rotor and had it anodised black to match the hubs. I measured up and made an axle spacer out of the two spacers supplied with the wheels. After a heap of back and forward with Motostrano I went the whole hog and bought a Beringer 4pot caliper and Beringer master cylinder in black so I could use the Beringer rotor I got with my wheels. Went to Enzed and got a new red braided line to plumb it all up. First thoughts: Holy $hit! One finger braking!
Pic of the Beringer Master. Forgot to mention. To fit the Beringer Master I had to move the E-switch to the other side. Shame the cable comes out on the left but it fit there ok with the indicator/horn/headlight switch block removed.
So after a few issues with my footpeg sliders I decided it was time for a solution. On two seperate occasions my peg sliders when touching the tar were ripped off. Enter Raptor titanium sumo pegs. These are judging by hand a little lighter than the RHK billets but they are a bit smaller. The slider sits up higher because the pegs aren't as thick giving a little more ground clearance. As with the RHK billets I had to grind down the stops a tiny bit other wise the pegs didn't sit flat. All in all they look and feel great, racing this Sunday will give them a proper shakedown. Don't know if they are worth the $400Aud but time will tell.
Here's a pick of them installed I have had a hard time adjusting my quickshifter to work properly. I've had to hold pressure on the lever waiting while the PCV decides to cut. After some adjustment today I am closer to having it spot on. I changed the min shift rpm to 6500rpm so that it only works when I'm WOP on the straights. Because of all the trouble, I went and installed Dynojets Quickshifter handlebar button so I can choose when I want to quickshift and when I don't. Funny thing is I had the bike quickshifting without even pressing the button. Usually you load up the lever and then hit the button to make the quickshift. But I had it shift without pressing the button or backing off the gas. I also installed a highly anticipated Suter Slipper clutch. Install was super straight forward following the instructions included, the only difficult thing was tightening up the clutch hub nut without the engine turning over. If anyone reading this intends on installing one of these clutches get yourself some Loctite 272 ,some brake cleaner and a torque wrench capable of 120nm or 88.5 ft/lb I installed it with the heavier 300n spring over the standard 150n spring and first test came up sweet! No wheel hop, less engine braking.
My 511 will change without a quick shifter when it's pinned WOT, annoys the shit out of me as I'm used to preloading the shifter. It'll just go crunch grind bang and attempt to change gears.
Set up the Static and Race sag for the new Õhlins rear. 16-18mm static and 70-75mm race. All the clickers are set to Õhlins recommended start settings. Also figured out why my quickshifter wasn't shifting correctly. When going into the PCV settings for the quickshifter I noticed that the switch was set 'Normally Closed' I remembered when I was testing the activation point of the switch with my meter it was Normally Open. I changed the setting from 'Normally Closed' to 'Normally Open' and it is working sweet! Couldn't be happier!
Let me know what you end up with regarding front and rear sag. Also I would HIGHLY recommend you get your forks done. Not any new spring or valves. Change the complete internals. I got the internals from an 2008 smrr and the forks works 10x better now, no wait, 100x times better. Or go stupid like Brembo and get custom forks with the lot done.
I'll be doing that same minus the Offset fork bottoms. I may try some adjustable triples later on but for now standard is ok.
