Te511 cutting out when hot

Hey guys, i was having zome problems with my 14 te511 last night. 900 miles with only supermoto stuff on it, so barely any trail rides.

I was riding to a buddie's house when the bike tarted bogging and stuttering on the top end and when under heavy load. It eventually got to the point where it wasn't able to run for more then 10 seconds when in gear and accelerating. I could start the bike up right after with no throttle everytime, but as soon as i set off, 10 seconds later it would die. So i called my buddy to come pick me up.

When he got there the bike had been sitting for about 20 minutes. I started it up and road it around just to see if it might have changed. Bike was running sort of okay, no bogging but lacking top end.
So I road it the rest of the way to his house. Maybe 5 minutes down the road and she starts doing the same thing. So I put it in the truck and bring it to his house.

We start with the airfilter. Completely saturated with oil, oil in airbox, oil covering head and some of electronic components. Clean it all up and replace filter and ride it around for about 5 minutes.
Seemed to be fine. So about 10 minutes into my ride home it starts doing the same shit again. Bog, stall, startup, bog, stall, startup etc.

I'm completely lost and have no idea where to start.

Just to add, bike is completely stock engine wise. Only thing I have is an fmf pipe.

Update: Went to the dealer. Ran by one guy, really small place. He said it's probably running really lean. Gave me the power up plug, ethanol treatment, new airfilter and a spark plug socket that he said would fit.

Excited, I get home and immediately tear into the bike. Both side covers off, intake boot, off airbox out. I go to insert the spark plug socket and it's just too fucking big. I called the guy back and he said it should fit, something about a rubber grommet or something being in the spark plug hole. I dunno. Here's how thick the socket is.




Anyway, I decided I'll just take it to my job tomorrow and grind it down a little. Next, I decide to install the jumper, and lo and behold this is what I find where the connecter for the jumper wire should be.




it doesn't say race map II on my dash so I guess this doesn't work haha. Any ideas on how to fix this jumper problem? I'm lost not good with wires.

Your problem could be a couple of things (I'm thinking stuff like fuel pump/filter/injector clog, coil, trigger/pluser coil) but you might read up on the 511's first: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-guide-index.35111/

actually, that thread should be right above yours in the italian 4 stroke forum- if you get *this* soon enough.

good luck.

Got the spark plug out today. (Had to get a cheapo socket from harbor freight to fit) The plug doesn't look that lean to me. I bought a new plug anyway.




I also pulled apart that little thing where the connector FOR the jumper plug is supposed to be and it looks like he just wired the wires together and put a metal sleeve over it with shrink wrap. Correct me if I'm wrong but this wouldn't allow it to go into race map two, right?

I don't think your problem is with your plug. That being said... ...is that the correct plug? I thought they had an Iridium or something along those lines.

It does look lean- but FI is efficient so I don't know if reading lean plugs is worth-while. Also, I am not sure what that band of oil/carbon about 3 threads deep is. (does it have the right reach?). It also looks like you had water in the spark plug well; the corrosion below (above) the hex is what I'm looking at. Use a very small dab of anti-seize on the threads when you install the new plug.

why didn't the other plug socket work?

The fmf pipe could be causing a lean condition if no other adjustments were made for it. Still, your problem feels like something else besides a plug or pipe.

That spark plug is toast.
It's the correct original plug by the look of the electrodes but they normally last way longer than a few hundred miles.
There is a better Iridium option in the same heat range from NGK.
Also possible that the stopping after the long ride is the fuel pump filter sock blocking up.

The jump plug picture is a little unclear.
Is that loop in the plug with only two wires?
If so, provided it has good contact, you should see Race Map II on the dash. Check for corrosion in the plug.

The oil in the air filter is a common issue from the poorly designed original breather system.
There are a couple of different fixes for it available, one from Zipty and one I designed from Australia.

So basically, from what it appears the previous owner cut the female end of the connecter that comes FROM the wiring harness out of the bike. He took the two wires that remained after cutting it and wired them into eachother. Edit: I've never seen racemap II on my dash either. Which makes me think whatever this is doesn't work.

maybe; probably. but I don't think either the map switch issue or spark plug is causing the bogging (or even the pipe).

put the new plug in and resume the hunt. ....and take pictures.

good luck.

I'm assuming that the dash is the factory dash, not a Trail tech or similar....
If it is original and not showing Race Map it's not in Race Map.
You will need to check wire colours from the manual and check to see that the correct wires have been joined.

Yes this is the original dash, here are the wires. I checked the wiring diagram ans I'm almost positive these are the wires for connecter that comes from the wiring harness.


For shits and giggles, I went to radioshack and bought resistors which I think are the same wattage and ohmage as the jumper plug.

I wrapped both ends of the wires around the resistor to see if that would do anything. Nada. Again I never learned how to work with electronics so I'm just fucking around at this point.

And yes I know this probably isn't why the bike is stalling at heavy load but I'm trying the easy stuff first.

Edit: this pops up on the dash whenever the bike is started, no clue what it means.

First thing first, the second photo code is just the calibration number for the speedo.
That's normal.

I'm currently away from home and don't have my wiring diagram with me, but could get someone to check it.
The factory supplied jumper plug is a simple wire loop, it says Diode in the parts book, but I've tested mine and it's an open circuit both ways, no resistance.

You might have to carefully test those wires between where they've been cut and the ecu connector plug to see if they might be broken in the loom somewhere.

PimpmasterJ, any news on your bike?

After cleaning up all electrical connections, changing spark plug, air filter, resetting tps, etc. I put it back together and took it out for a 30 minute ride and it was fine. No problems, fast forward a month and I rode It home from work on a 75 degree day. It happened again, thought I was low on fuel so I stopped at a gas station, I was really low on fuel. Filled her up and rode maybe 20 feet and died again. Started it, rode 10 feet died. I let the bike sit on the side of the road for 40 minutes and rode the 2 miles home without an issue, probably only made it home because it didn't get warm enough for the problem to occur.

I'm thinking the problem is temp related, but fans come on and work. No temp light but my fuel warning light doesn't seem to be working. Don't even know if the bike has one.

Edit: after searching on the forums I did find someone with what seems like the same problem, unfortunately for me he didn't end up figuring it out and the dealer abandoned him on it. This doesn't bode well.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/txc449-died-started-died-started.26454/

I also never figured out the jumper problem, I was planning on just taking it to the dealer nearby and having them figure it out. Figured it wouldn't cost too much but now I've got this problem again. Probably gonna sell the bike after I figure this out and pick up one of those 701 enduros or maybe a ktm 690.

Sorry to hear..It took me quite a while to figure out our 449/511 bikes, we kept them for about a year and sold them. They are very quirky, too bad too they are a very good looking bike. Have you checked the one way fuel valve by back fender if it fails it causes the bike to die and starve for fuel.

Are you sure you didn't somehow solve the problem- and then later, ran out of gas? Because that 2nd & 3rd stall almost sounds like air in the fuel line.

also, a temperature problem could be an electrical component heating up (coil? pulse coil?) and failing... not necessarily an overheating engine.

Regarding the bike cutting out when hot. Does it start up right away or do you need to let it cool down a bit first? My '08 would cut out until you let it cool down. Ended up being a bad coil that kept getting hot. Replace for only a few bucks from genuine husky part.

Regarding the power-up, my dealer gave me the wrong power-up socket too. From other topics here on Cafe Husky, I just cut off the plug and ended up putting a handle bar switch on it so I can have race map 1 or 2. No issues by just jumping the wires together. Don't bother with a switch like I did though, just cut and jump together or use a modified paper clip to jam in the socket to jump the wires.

Good luck!

Could be the fuel pump dying... Perhaps.
It's just an electric motor after all.
Can you hear the pump run when it won't start?
If touch start and let it rest, you should hear the pump run a few seconds after.

Also, is the clear pump tank full of fuel when the issue occurs?
There are little strainer filters on the tap inlets between tanks.
Not unheard of for the pump filter bag on the pump body to become clogged also...