• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Te511 30 Amp fuse blown and electrical problems, need help please

Freekman

Freekman

Husqvarna
AA Class
Ok to make a short story long (just trying to give as many details as possible) I was riding today and flipped my bike...hard. It was still running when it was on the ground so I shut it off inspected everything and rode away. I rode for like 10 miles then stopped to find the nearest gas station. I started to ride away I was in 3rd though by accident so as I was about to shift down the bike went dead. Like completely aka no lights no dash nothing. I found that the 30 amp fuse was blown. The tail of my bike got pretty messed up so I inspected the area and saw 2 blinker wires that were touching. Is this enough to blow the main 30 amp fuse? I spread everything apart and replaced the 30 amp with what I think was a spare (It didn't look like there were any leads going to that fuse, but I have seen people on here referring to have 2 active 30 amp fuses so I may be making a mistake). Now the bike will turn on the dash and give me an error message and won't turn over also the dash shuts off immediately if you let go of the starter button. So I checked the clutch cable which looked fine, and when I disconnect it (i couldn't make a jumper) the dash won't turn on so I am assuming the clutch cable is fine. I remeber that the bike would behave similarly when I unplugged my Bazaaz, so I tried to rewire it back to stock, but couldn't do it on the side of the road. So tomorrow I am going to strip the whole bike down and look for an issue, I am hoping you guys can point me in the right direction.

to summarize
1. Can a short in the blinkers blow the 30 amp fuse
2. based on that behavior could my bazaaz be at fault
3. Could it be the clutch lever sensor.
4. do i need to have both of those 30 amp fuses in or is one a backup

thanks again
 
Sounds like a short. We had so many problems with the bazaaz harness we dumped them and ran pcvs. Not saying that is your problem directly, but I think you have a short somewhere.
 
Tinken said:
Sounds like a short. We had so many problems with the bazaaz harness we dumped them and ran pcvs. Not saying that is your problem directly, but I think you have a short somewhere.
Click to expand...
So there was an obvious short in the tail light like I thought and a suspect wire in the Bazzaz harness, so I unplugged the bazzaz and went back to stock ecu, I also unplugged the entire tail light harness. Still having the same problem. I didn't see any other problems with the connections around the engine and it wasn't the clutch lever sensor. I guess I am going to check the headlight assembly tomorrow. Can the bike start without the lights? are there any common places you think I should look?
 
Ok, today I go back and just try to start it up again without changing anything...starts up, but won't shut down. I'll press the shutdown button and will will just start to turn over again. It is like the starter button and the shutoff button are fighting. I am going to take a look at the button assembly itself tomorrow. any tips on what I should look for?
 
You may want to pull the wires off the buttons and 'fire' them manually. If starting /stopping works that way, then at least you know the problem is definitely in the button/switch mechanism and not something else further down the line.
 
danny318 said:
You may want to pull the wires off the buttons and 'fire' them manually. If starting /stopping works that way, then at least you know the problem is definitely in the button/switch mechanism and not something else further down the line.
Click to expand...

good tip. gonna try it now
 
danny318 said:
You may want to pull the wires off the buttons and 'fire' them manually. If starting /stopping works that way, then at least you know the problem is definitely in the button/switch mechanism and not something else further down the line.
Click to expand...
that wasn't the issue. I am pretty much lost at this point. I am willing to just take it to a shop, but I don't have any way of getting it there. Can you give me any other ideas of where to look? Also the battery is dead now (or the starter is slowly dying) can I hook it up to one of those car charging things just for a second to see if I have wiring straight?
 
You can hook it up to a battery charger, yeah.

I haven't looked at the fuses much myself, but I'm suspect of the 2 30 amp fuse thing. Maybe one is blown, or another fuse is blown. Worth looking at all the fuses.

Also don't give up man. Getting through something like this is worth it.
I bet its something stupid, some short, some blown fuse, something unplugged or broke.

I can't see anything important getting fried from the short, esp since you changed out ECU's.
 
danny318 said:
You can hook it up to a battery charger, yeah.

I haven't looked at the fuses much myself, but I'm suspect of the 2 30 amp fuse thing. Maybe one is blown, or another fuse is blown. Worth looking at all the fuses.

Also don't give up man. Getting through something like this is worth it.
I bet its something stupid, some short, some blown fuse, something unplugged or broke.

I can't see anything important getting fried from the short, esp since you changed out ECU's.
Click to expand...

I am about to look like a complete idiot but it is worth it...Isn't there only one 30amp fuse. I thought the other fuse was an extra. The manual I have only refers to it as a single fuse never the plural "fuses". I don't see and connections from that go into the fuse holder on the bottom side of the solenoid. I'll go out and buy another fuse tomorrow, but It is strange to me that it would do anything with one fuse completely missing.
 
Not only on Huskies, but the 30 amp often blows on street bikes when you change the battery. What I'm getting at is that you should make sure your larger wires aren't loose, such as battery terminals, starter terminals, ignition wires, and all large ground wires. Dumping it can knock one loose enough to make it do all kinds of weird things that come and go. It doesn't take much either, particularly with ground wires.
 
Jetmech25 said:
Not only on Huskies, but the 30 amp often blows on street bikes when you change the battery. What I'm getting at is that you should make sure your larger wires aren't loose, such as battery terminals, starter terminals, ignition wires, and all large ground wires. Dumping it can knock one loose enough to make it do all kinds of weird things that come and go. It doesn't take much either, particularly with ground wires.
Click to expand...

yeah it wasn't the fuses so I guess I have to go back to my systematic search..argh
 
Look at the bright side! When you get this figured out, you will be intimatley familiar with your electrical system. I'm assuming you have a good multimeter to check continuity, ohm things out, etc.
 
Huskynoobee said:
Look at the bright side! When you get this figured out, you will be intimatley familiar with your electrical system. I'm assuming you have a good multimeter to check continuity, ohm things out, etc.
Click to expand...
Nope...I was gonna buy one this weekend. classes make it hard to get to the store. I know it is a great tool to have around, but what would you suggest me spending on one? Also how likely do you guys the the solenoid being at fault is?
 
Check the wire harness in two places. If on the bike the right side, open up the harness that runs under the air box. Mine was fried there in several spots. Also left side near plug area, main thick harnes. Look in there for where the pink wire joins a blue with green trace and a diode. The diode is what keeps the starter from running and running after releasing the button. I just replaced mine yesterday. Good luck and try not to be to shocked when you see just how poorly the wire harness is made. I rewired my whole bike damn near, no more 5-18 gauge wires spliced into one connections on my bike. Also added several ground points including EFI
 
Dentman67 said:
Check the wire harness in two places. If on the bike the right side, open up the harness that runs under the air box. Mine was fried there in several spots. Also left side near plug area, main thick harnes. Look in there for where the pink wire joins a blue with green trace and a diode. The diode is what keeps the starter from running and running after releasing the button. I just replaced mine yesterday. Good luck and try not to be to shocked when you see just how poorly the wire harness is made. I rewired my whole bike damn near, no more 5-18 gauge wires spliced into one connections on my bike. Also added several ground points including EFI
Click to expand...

I just checkout out all the wiring near the air box, and a little bit around the main harness, but I don't exactly know what diode you are talking about, can you post a pic by any chance. also will I have to solder a new diode on if that is the problem
 
Also what are the specs of the diode so I can get a replacement (hopefully that is the problem). Another edit. are there basically 3 main ground wire that I should check?


UPDATE:
I think this nightmere may finally be almost over. I tested the diode and got .001 ohms on both sides meaning that it is open. The diode type is a 1N5408 for anybody who needs to know. I am going to through in a 1N5402 which is a 3 amp diode with a peak inverse voltage of 200V instead of 1000V just to test it. I'll update again with results

UPDATE
so it was that fuse. The 1N5402 worked, but I am going to get the right one and solder is all back up. Thanks for all the help everybody
 
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