TE310 2012 - Issues Starting

That hose is just to keep the tank fluid level. The right side petcock contains a level sensor or could have used same screw type on both sides.

The fuel lines that you refer to are just there to balance the fuel level from each side of the tank the taps are there so you can remove the line to tank the tank off with fuel in it if that makes sense- there is another high pressure line that connects fuel to the throttle body -no need to disconnect this as this stage.
Use the balance fuel taps to drain the tank no need to remove the tank from the bike.
Cheers

Thanks guys.

Turns out the starting issue is still there, I started it this morning then could not e-start it again. I could however kick it (I had a couple of kicks where it kicked back if that revelant?).

I took the starter motor off, the worm gear looks clean, it is the new worm gear after the factory recall. The starter doesn't spin when I hit the start button, I just get a click that sounds like it's coming from near the battery. Is this an electrical issue?

Can you suggest what I check next? Earthing maybe, where is it earthed? I have the brief pdf workshop manual, I'll see if I can work it out, I'm not very familiar yet with mechanics, appreciate the assistance - thanks!

Best way to resolve this issue and just save you hours of frustration is to just remove the starter, hit it with a hammer and throw it away. Install the TXC block of plate and have a kick start only bike.

The starters on these are hit/miss as to quality assurance. Some owners will never have an issue, some will always have an issue. Back/Forth with dealer and repair shop is futile.

lol, from what I've heard they're not made for kick starting either.. it's more of a backup and puts a lot of pressure on the under engineered components.

I pulled it apart today and found that the starter turns OK off my transformer, but there's metal shavings in the crown wheel and pinon body section.

Looks like the nut came off and maybe the woodruff key got minced? It turns ok now, I might try use a mates air gun to clean out any remaining bits of metal. I'm not sure what the metal ring that's half there on the ground is, can anyone advise?

Thought we were talking about spark plugs ? This sounds more like an exhaust valve clearance issue the auto decomp not actuating this will jam the estart mechanisms possibly damage them get the valve clearance right then fix or replace the estart stuff this problem also makes the bike harder to kick - if the problem comes back stop pressing the button you may need to replace the exhaust valves as mine were wearing from the stem so the auto de comp was not being actuated this was all caused from a previous over heating issues caused by a faulty water pump seal the over heating softened the valve stem took me and the local mechanic some time to figure it out - bike has been fine for the past three seasons riding

That ring is the cage from the bearing. You can see that bearing is JUNK.

Dealer replaced starter motor and temp sensor on my 12 te 310.

I've resolved this, bit of an update in case it helps someone else.

I dropped off the crown and pinion body at my local dealer. They replaced the bearing, woodruff key, put the nut back on (with loctite this time!) and cleaned out any metal shavings etc. It starts first time no worries at the moment, I haven't been for a decent ride yet. Dealer charged me $70 for parts and labour, certainly worth investigating myself.

I'm not impressed that this happened in a bike under 3 years old, surely it's not expected that the nut will fly off in this time - but I don't have the time to follow up with consumer warranty. Dirt bikes break, I can accept that, so far it's a one off.

One note is that one of the gears in the crown and pinion body is on the opposite side than the manual says it should be.. I don't have the manual on me to describe better, but thought I'd mention it in case someone else has the same issue. The mechanic at the dealer said leave it as it is, so far so good. I'll try report back after a decent day long ride or two

First ride, bike went great for 90%, then the starter wouldn't work again after it did a backfire and stalled up a snotty hill.. it was kicking the engine over a few times at first, but then nothing but a click.

I couldn't kick it after 20 kicks or so, so I went back down the hill and roll started it. It didn't even want to roll start the first few times I dropped the clutch.

I just pulled it apart and found the starter motor is burnt out. It looked OK before the ride as I had pulled it apart to check. I can put a new starter (8000A7059) in, any suggestions on why this may have happened would be appreciated to stop me from blowing another starter.