TE310 2012 - Issues Starting

I've just replaced my clutch salve cylinder after I buggered when bleeding the clutch.. don't ask.. I just thought I'd better say as it was relevant info Now I haven't put any dot fluid in until i get a syringe tomorrow to reverse bleed it, but the bikes in neutral so should start regardless yeh?

I have had this starting issue intermittently when starting the bike during rides. I get a click, or an electrical whining noise when trying to start the bike. I had the worm gear replaced as that already was buggered (factory recall on the 2012's). When getting this issue I am always able to kick or kill start it - kicking can be a pain, but probably my technique as I don't kick it regularly. I just put a new battery (SSB 220ca) in as the old one was borderline when I load tested it and I thought this may be the issue.

This sounds to me like the starter motor is buggered, but it's a pretty new bike that's not used very often - hopefully its a smaller/cheaper fix.

What's your thoughts guys? What can I check to confirm the issue? Thanks.

Mine is in the shop for the same thing right now , will let you know what they come up with.

Thanks- I'm interested in others experiences too, I thought they fixed these issues with the recall?

This is worrying: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1101730-2012-te-310-starter-issues/

OK my experience. It's all valve clearance/decompressor. I replaced all parts from warranty to gears to temp sensor and valves checked at 700 miles by dealer. When warranty was out and my problem was still evident, I was told by a reliable source to check the valves again. Decompressor slightly loose. Tightened it and all problems went away. 3000 dirt miles and a hare scramble later.

Ok, this sounds promising. Any good references on the web for how to adjust the decompression? I'm handy but not a mechanic.

Well... Doing yourself requires a quality torque wrench ($$), appropriate sockets, feeler gauge, and download of a a service manual. You either will have to go to your dealer or order shims online if any are out of adjustment. A caliper is handy to measure the thickness of shims in case any are not 100% accurate. Search this site for a service manual download. It may be easier to just have a dealer do it but having the tools and doing it yourself is good as well for future work. Be slow deliberate and careful with measurements, pulling hoses and wires and reassemble with care noting fuel line routing and under tank spacing..

Thanks for the tips. I have the manual, sockets/a couple of different sizes torque wrenches, I might locate the other tools have a crack.

Search on this forum for te310 starting issue. You will be busy reading for a long time. I personally have concluded that many issues cumulatively add up to hot start failure. Bikes seem to vary; any one "fix" worked a bit for me, then was less effective. My 2012 te310 seems ok now, but only after: tight exhaust valve, new starter, new starter relay/solenoid, new starter ring/worm gear, shorai lithium iron phosphate battery, heavier gauge battery ground, txc 12 port injector and ecu, broken decompression gizmo on cam which required new cam, and I may have forgotten something. And Bill's special grind for the decompression spring leg resting on the cam shaft.

My situation was exacerbated by lack of experience, resulting in lots of stalling and restarting engine, which was also aggravated by the abrupt low end throttle response. The new injector and ecu, if done right off the bat, might have lessened the excessive wear and tear on the starter, etc.. Bill's Motorcycle Plus in Oregon was a great help with parts and advice. And the valve adjust was one of the first things done.

Agree. George seemed to get the valve adj. just right. No issues starting mine ....touch the button and it's going.

same 2012 te310 bike. 700 miles on it, starts up everytime hot or cold. No recall of parts has all original starter parts. I only adjusted valve shims at 500 miles and fine tuned ibeat co settings. I didnt adjust the valves because of a problem, only to do sceduled maintenance. Bike runs great and has always started easy. Maybe some bikes are too lean causing hard starting? I also hope people are using the fuel enrichener lever on cold starts with no throttle.

Just talked to dealer , they said these bikes starters don't aren't meant to work well when engine is hot , but battery is charging good they said , I told them it has a 5 year warranty to order me one , they said ok . Unbelievable.

This is typically the resolve from 2013-14 due to the new head and valve issues. However, on earlier models, including the 2012 model black heads, faulty worm gear sets and or starter internals were usually the cause of failure. Husqvarna has since updated these gear sets which must be ordered and installed.

I finally got to the shed and had another look over the bike.. it was cranking but not starting.

I noticed the spark plug was dirty and replaced it and she started up first go. I really should have done this rather than going straight to the forums! So note to anyone else with an issue, check the simple things first!!

I'll keep an eye on it and see if I get the whining noise again, I might need to check the starter for carbon build up.

Iridium spark plug, they last forever and rarely foul.

It was an NGK iridium plug, it had been in for about 18 months. I bought a pack of 6 at the time so put another one in, we'll see how it goes.

H

have you been adding any fuel additives? - valve saver is a no go for threse bikes .

Nope, mostly used BP ultimate 98 but have run some other unleadeds on organised rides etc.

.

Could be worth draining the the tank you may of got some contaminant causing the plug to foul.

OK, I'll drain it into a can and run it through the old honda mower .

While I think of it there's a screw style valve on the left side under the fuel tank where the fuel hose comes out, then after this the hose runs to the right side and there is the fuel 'on/off' tap. Why are there two mechanisms on the one hose?