TE 511 Brake/Clutch Lever Angle

HI, i did have the same problem..... i Cut my Stock lever where the Breaking spot was off. Also did i move the whole perch around 1.5 inches towards center. That keeps the lever end in a perfect position when u want to use only one or two fingers without hitting the knuckels.

I also adjusted them to position were it suits me best in standing position and sitting down. .....

I have both the clutch and brake levers from Midwest and love them. Noticeably less pull and I find the width more comfortable than oem.

I ordered my lever late on Friday. Had shipment notification by Saturday. Came home from work yesterday and it was in my mailbox! Yay!
I'm certain the lever pull is easier. Is it 50% easier as claimed? Dunno about that. One finger operation? Absolutely. Is it shorter? Yes. By as much as I thought? No. Pics:


Finish my beer, then brave the cold to install this thing.


Check out the first two sentences of the instructions above. :-)


Shorty-ish.

Installed and rode with the MME clutch lever. The benefit thus far is being able to use two fingers to clutch witihout crushing your ring and pinky fingers. I don't think the pull effort is much lower (although I never had complaints that stock was hard to pull). The engagement of the clutch is slower (i.e. take place over a wider lever movement). Not completely sold on it, need a few more rides to get used to the different clutch feel.

Agreed, I think these might be coming off and getting replaced with the ARCs.

Had another ride with the MME and spent time fine tuning it. As previously stated, the lever reduces the rate of clutch engagement/disengagement, therefore lessening the pull effort. Basically think of it as using a lower gear. After re-installing my stock brembo lever for comparison I am still mixed on it.

Pros:
Definitely less effort at the lever (after re-installing my stock brembo for comparison).
Easy 2 finger operation (no crushing your ring/pinky)
Sturdier than stock

Cons:
Need to really fine tune engagement / disengagement point.
Longer throw
Doesn't work well when cold

The challenge is that the sweet spot of clutch engagement/disengagement moves around as clutch goes between hot, normal, and cold (yes I realize this happens with all clutches, but it is amplified with the MME as the lever range is narrowed). So you set it up for normal (warm) operation and it doesn't work great cold (not enough clutch disengagement = clunks into gear, creeps, and can't find neutral) and I suspect not enough clutch engagement when the clutch is getting hammered in very rocky, ledgy 1-5 mph sections. In order to compensate and get enough clutch engagement when very hot, the lever throw has to be pretty far out.

Is having the lever throw further away from the bars worth the lower effort? Still not sure.

I'd say if you don't ride really tech rock / boulder sections that requires abusing your clutch (and want the above pros), it's a good solution and I would recommend it. I will end up keeping mine and may swap it out or use as a back up.

Good write up. Thanks

I have MME levers on both clutch and brake now. Here's what I found. When I got the position of the clutch to where I want it, I noticed the clutch slipping. In order to get the clutch to not slip (or is it still slightly? I dunno!), I had to take the adjustment bolt all the way out. I might actually drill the plunger hole a bit deeper so I can get some free play (or less reach). On a three hour ride yesterday, I 1 fingered the entire time with no fatigue. So I like that part.

The brake lever, on the other hand, retains the stock reach/free play adjuster. So you can loosen that all you want. Problem is that the brake light stays on. So now I have to go in there and fiddle with that.

Will I keep them on? Probably. Especially if drilling the plunger hole works.

For future reference, Arc levers are the same length as those, offer same lightened pull, no drilling and are spring loaded so they won't break during a fall.

Yea, I couldn't tell how much shorter the ARCs were, or if there were multiple models. They could do a better job at describing them on their site. I think I'm going to be negotiating a return of the MME.

Here's an update. With the MME's and my trail tech bars installed I was able to get my levers positioned pretty much right where I wanted them. They are are in a position that is very close to how I've been running my mountain bike levers for the last 20 years. Finding them with my fingers is an instinct, not a though process. And 1 finger is all I need to use for both the clutch and brake.

Yesterday I had a slow speed get off and my levers and brush guard rotated up on the bars. I fell on the left side of the bike, and the bike rotated downhill. The clutch lever got pulled forward (towards the front wheel). The lever did not bend at all. These things are really tough. And if you do use them I highly recommend running your perches somewhat loose so they will rotate on the bars. Otherwise the levers will most likely stay in tact but break your perches.

Now, all that being said, with the clutch lever getting pulled forward it mangled my clutch perch a bit. So the stop position is now much further away than it should be. I kept missing my clutch lever on the way back to the truck. Wasn't pretty. Lucky that the crash happened at the end of a terrific day of riding. I haven't looked at it yet, but I'm hoping it'll be easy to fix, and not have to be replaced.

FYI, my MME's are listed in the Classifieds.

I am having a hard time matching the clutch lever to my 2013 TE49, is there a comparable fit in any other bike?...(KTM, or TE511)

Yea, most of the newer KTMs that have brembo reservoirs have pretty much the same levers. Contact the guys at ASV, they know exactly what you need. And, they have both a normal length and shorty. The ASVs are top quality. As are the ARCs.

Hey man sweet levers can you tell me the part numbers for those and if they will work for my 2014 TE 511 with brembo brake and clutch?