Hey George, Thanks again for the help.. She came out pretty easily... Looks like I semi easily found my issue.. Surprised it's not even MORE common. EDIT : HEy Circus.. Who's the dealer you got it from???. Dan from MotoXotica told me today he doesn't have any and didn't get word today if/when he can get them. He says he's checking again tomorrow and getting back to me, but I always get nervous when I have issues getting the parts I need first try. I always talk up how easy it's always been to get the few parts of needed for my Husky to the naysayers.. Hope I don't have a change of luck here.. Not like I have an all year riding season in Connecticut. If I have huge issues getting this part I'll seriously consider straightening and welding it back together instead. Does that sound crazy?? Seems like it's bending right where it's cracked only..
My dealer (Moto Forza in Escondido, California) had to order it -- took about 1 week. That is exactly what happened to mine. They charged me $90 for the part alone. Yikes!!! Tell me, what did you have to do in order to remove it?
On Supermotojunkie I get emails when someone responds to a thread that I have responded to. I do NOT get emails from Cafe Husky --do you automatically get emails? This is why it took me so long to get back to you. I just happened to see this thread.
Hey Circus, Came out just like George said, just pull pressure plate off clutch, then lil pushrod in middle with ball bearing behind it. Then over to other side. After pulling clutch cable at lever to make slack with the actuator arm a few degrees towards u/left side of bike just a lil prying with a screwdriver to loosen and get it started out the fitst couple mm. I worked it around a lil to make sure I wasnt prying against too much resistance. After it was started then a lil wiggling to get it out. Going back in it is probally gonna be more work and wiggling and lube on seal and arm than coming out I imagine. Ordered it online from halls for 93$, as well as a 16$ clutch hub bushing. Guess it was in stock, cause I got an invoice for it. And re your email notifications Circus. You probally can change those settings on the "user cp".
You might need the bronze bushing as well ($14). If your clutch basket has play when you rock it back and forth, then you probably do.
Not really if it breaks they usually come out easier with a magnet. As it's broken off not bent. Later George
Hey George, any tips on install, or just same as taking it out. Work it with some lube around the top/seal??
the same thing happend to my 610, at the begining of this summer. i had some one local weld it. since the fix it has about 4k pretty hard miles on it. no problems. the bike has about 36k miles total. brian
Interesting, exact same location. Thanks for the heads up about your fix. My new one is already on it's way, but I may weld/fix the old one for a spare.. lol..
Reason for this happening is over adjusting the clutch cable, or adjusting it so you can find N. It isn't going to happen just live with it do the tap dance on the shifter before you stop. These gear boxes have deep dovetail cut on the dogs for the gears. This is what holds the gears so they resist jumping out of gear when in the bumps or when boot bumps the shifter also reason for the longer shift throw. Now the clutch is massive and is in oil the oil drag tries to keep the clutch from totally releasing all the pressure on the dogs that are holding the gears together, even tho it is totally released. By adjusting the cable too tight the clutch release gets over extended now the springs are coil bound and every thing gets solid. Now is when the arm gets bent and cracks, if it didn't it would blow the center out of the pressure plate, or the first plate in the stack will slip out and jam the clutch in a totally released state. Some will say the part needs to be beefed up I feel better as it is works like a stress release function. As in engineered for that reason. Later George
Thanks for the thorough explanation George. Greatly appreciated. And I agree about the good idea for a engineered stress release on an easier to get to and not TOO expensive part. Only thing though, I feel as I have ALWAYS had my clutch adjusted to the loose side. I mean I've always had a good inch and a half to almost 2 inches, if not more of sloppy, flopping around lever before it did any pull.. OH well, I'll continue to keep a close eye on that.. In 13-14K miles I guess a woodruff key and this for a grand total of just under $100 in "parts failure" isn't the worst thing in the world after all.
you have 2 adjustments cable(external) and push rod adj(internal). Still could have push rod adj to tight. Later george
George, back when I was troubleshooting mine (before I knew the arm was breaking), I adjusted this adjuster to this position (see photo). Have I adjusted it too far? Is the adjuster sticking out too far relative to the lock nut?
Wow, that's hard to swallow!! What is their labor rate? The husky dealer where I live charges $60.hr and don't round up.
Just checked my actuating arm since i have it apart for the spring cup washer upgrade. Pleased to announce its in swell condition. (Thanks George @ Up-Tite Husky for the info over the phone) I'm at 10K miles for reference.
Unfortunate in my case, but I think I'll have to revive this thread. Previously I thought that my recent power loss problems were the cause of removing the battery wrong somehow (http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/sm610-power-loss-after-disconnecting-battery.26213/). But in before doing so, I actually fell on the left side of the bike. This might've been the final nail in the coffin for my actuator arm. A friend of mine mentioned that If I keep a constant speed, and my RPM for that specific speed is higher than usual, there's only one thing that can cause it. Clutch. Checked the clutch cable from the engine side and it doesn't feel taught. L(length of cable between the guide and actuator arm) measures at 105mm as opposed to the value in the manual 110.5-112.5. So if the cable is loose, and L still measures below 105mm, the actuator arm must be broken right? Edit: No, it wasn't. Clutch plates were ok as well. Time to continue hunting the cause for my issue.
Shit - think mines gone as well! I thought it was the cable as it was fraying at the lever... when I went to unhook it at the actualor arm I realised the action was very slack - like virtually just the spring!! My question - is the replacemnt part just as likely to fail down the line (same quality or beefier)? How much room is there where it breaks for a weld - ie inside the cutout shoulder? (there is mention here of some one welding it). I am thinking I should do the cup washers at the same time as I have them ... better get a brass bushing too ...
Mine failed at 9000 miles. I now have 7500 miles on the replacement actuator rod. If you read a little further up, George from Uptite says they break due to users adjusting the clutch lever with not enough slack and this puts a constant load on the actuator arm. The reason we are all adjusting out the slack is to be able to disengage the clutch enough to find neutral when stopped -- this should not be the goal. I now have adjusted mine to get 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch of slack now at the clutch lever tip, and I try to find neutral as I coast to a stop.
