First time the SMS has left me stuck in 16k miles, fuel pump quit a mile from the house... Relay and fuse are good, just no pump... I'll push it back and pull the tank, hopefully just a broken wire...
Sorry to hear it man- your bike has been pretty inspirational (you know, in terms of not falling victim to the usual ills of the 630's!) Mines got 13.5K miles on it now and I've gotta admit I'm getting a little paranoid about such things starting to occur. Let us know how it works out.
Waited 10 min for the wife to bring the car for my gear so I could push it up the hill and coast home. Checked it one more time, fired right up and rode it home. Go figure... I'll probably dig into it this weekend.
Haven't taken a closer look at it yet, but what are the symptoms for those who have had their tip-over sensor go bad, and how do you bypass it? I just had a quick look at the shop manual and it looks like the tip-over sensor goes straight back to the ECU instead of cutting out anything directly. There's also a chance that the fuel pump relay is going bad, it still clicked every time, but may not have been making contact. It's something in the fuel pump circuit that self-corrected, at least for now. I won't be riding it out of the neighborhood until I can pin it down.
These pumps are a known point of failure and there are good threads here about their issues. I had one of these fuel pumps fail on me over time. After the pump warms up from cold, it would die and then come to life about an hour later after it had cooled down sufficiently and would then die again after it had warmed up. Unless you find some other cause, my advice, replace the pump or carry a spare and the required tools
aaaaand it's backordered... might have to try Halls. If it's the pump, can you replace that with a cross-referenced part, or do you have to swap the whole assembly?
Not sure what you mean, but you just need to replace the pump itself, not the entire assembly. The pump itself is available from a number of sources including some autoparts shops, however depending on the make, some of them may vary in terms of pump diameter and hose nozzle thickness which can result in assembly issues Make sure you zip tie the pump nicely back in place - http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/fi-fuel-pump-mod.3053/
I didn't know if there was a recommended replacement besides the factory part, as not all internal fuel pumps are created equal and i didn't want to be digging through their rack looking for one the correct size with the correct fittings. ETA: Just ordered a direct replacement from CNT on Amazon.
On a related note, my bike had the fuse locations swapped. In the manual, the picture and description match up, but the label on the cover does not. My bike had the fuses in the location shown on the cover label, which means 23 and 23B are swapped compared to the manual. It's not hard to see how they could be mixed up, since the fuse holders have enough loose lead and can be easily slid on and off of the bracket.
Seems to me that a bad fuel pump is a trivial thing to diagnose: Undo the quick disconnect from the tank to the throttle body and see if there is fuel squirting out. (If you want to end up on youtube as a warning to future generations, direct the flow onto the hot exhaust) Is the tank vent plugged? That would create a vacuum and give you the same symptoms. You think it is related to heat, but the 10mn "cool down" might have nothing to do with temperature. It might be how long it takes for air to get back into the tank.
It's not the plumbing side of the fuel pump, the pump would not prime (you can normally hear the pump running) when turning on the key or attempting to crank. The relay would click on, and then off after the prime cycle timer, but the pump would not run.
I don’t know if it can help… as I'm not 100% sure I understood you, sorry In my Te310, the fuel pump once “died” (not noise at all when I put the ignition key on) … because one of the pump wires had broken (or disconnected, I don’t remember) I could check it after I removed the fuel tank and removed the fuel pump from the tank, of course. So it was very easy to repair.
The pump part itself is replaceable and there are many available on e-Bay - http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...0&_nkw=Husqvarna TE630 fuel pump&_sacat=10063
1) on my TE510, has same pump assembly, one of the cable lugs had opened up over time and slipped off it's connector - could be that you have a loose connection of sorts. 2) sometimes these pumps stop and then recover intermittently afore they die forever.
These pumps tend to fail when they get hot then restart when cool. Hard to diagnose. My 2010 TE250 did the same thing twice. I took it out on the trail wiggled some wires and plugged it in and it ran till it got hot again. Dealer swapped out the whole pump and it has worked fine for 4 Years. Change the fuel filter too.
Repair manual says not to run it dry for longer than 3 seconds, if I remember correctly (in the section on testing it when it is out the tank).
