I was poised to convert my standard 610 exhausts to straight through exhausts but reading up on it I'm not quite sure. I read about "uncorking" which seems to be a buzzword in thumper circles, a lot of people claim gains are made when they uncorked their bikes. I can only assume that the main part to this "uncorking" is to remove the catalytic converters from the exhausts. However, I have read reports of the torque moving up in the rev band which wouldn't be something I would like and the engine noise being louder, although would this be as much of a problem for duals? I really like how the power delivery is now, but if there is, for instance, 5hp to be gained by derestricting the exhausts and richening up the jetting then I think it is worth it. It is quite a lot of fiddly work, drilling out the rivets, putting a pipe and stuffing in and then closing it all back up in one piece again. What about just doing one exhaust, would that be enough?
I would say it is. I got a decent performance improvement, better sound, and not much louder than stock. Cost me $40 with getting the perforated pipe shipped from England. Drilling the rivets is easy. Cam.
Thanks cam. Drilling the rivets is probably easy, I am just worried about slightly oversizing the holes by accident and reriveting the exhaust back together. There is a cheap riveting tool on eBay but I don't know if the rivets it comes with will be the right size. I noticed you used a reducer but also saw that CJBrown just tapped the edge of the pipe to go around the inlet and outlet which will save some hassle. I am most concerned about getting part way through then finding something that is going to cause a problem which has happened before when I have undertaken supposedly simple jobs. I might just do one on the battery side and see how it goes. I plan to get the bike dyno'd before hand anyway so I guess I'll get that done first. Just realised I've already made a thread on this same subject. D'oh!
I just used std rivets out of my tool box. Nothing special. Drill them with a slightly smaller drill bit until the head pops off onto the drill, then tap them in with a punch. Cam.
There was stainless and a small amount of aluminium welding involved when i made my can straight through. I got the stainless perforated tube and cone from ebay, and i have an ac/dc tig welder. It is far from being a simple job. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-8mm-x-C...hash=item48473918f7:m:mW-tYm_0RpQFRlF6XHK-rig
What aluminum were you welding? Here's what I did: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/my-take-on-converting-630-cans-to-flow-throughs.19706/
The rivet holes on the inlet end of the alu can body were slotted, not round. They must come like that to make lining up for assembly easier. I welded them up and re-drilled them round so the end of the can could be riveted securely so it couldnt vibrate and move. I welded the stainless perf tube in the inlet end and trimmed the pipe shorter on the outlet and welded a cone that slides snugly into the perf pipe on it. So, to re-pack i just take the inlet end off and wrap the perf pipe and slide it back in and over the cone on the outlet to support the end of the perf tube. The green is perf tube welded into the inlet, the red is the cone welded on to the outlet
