I have a interesting complaint with this bike. When doing 50ish mph in 6th gear leaving a corner (yes you could drop a gear) and you whack the throttle open to accelerate...It does not lurch forward. It acts as if you rolled the throttle on slowly or the clutch is slipping slightly.... Could this be the second butterfly opening slowly? So when you really rip open the throttle fast that the second butterfly is slow responding and smoothes out the power? Is that its purpose?
I think you will find you are just in a too higher gear. 6th being the tallest gear won't have much accelleration from part throttle to wide open. You're basically dumping a heap of full out your exhaust, as your engine is unable to burn it all. Drop a gear and keep it in the power curve.
Me too. They make them for the te kyb 48s also. But with the clicker setup right and cut front springs the bike feels great.
That is what the system is designed to do. You would be surprised at the difference in response without the butterfly & the nessesary fuelling changes.
I have my fancy forks at home... still waiting an the axle and caliper so I can use them lol Italians *shakes head*
When I finally get all the parts, Marzocchi 50mm forks with... Ohlins TTX internals shortened and valved for SM, DLC coated fork lowers, SKF seals, -15mm offset fork bottoms + axle to suit, and a beringer 108mm radial caliper. Parts sourced myself, all work performed by Dave @ FastBikeIndustries in North Carolina, can't speak highly enough of the bloke!
I tryed 3 different Ohlins dealers. In the end Caiman solved the puzzle and told me he snapped his up from Omnia Racing in Italy. Quite a steep price at €1200, but they seem to be the only guys in the world that still have them. Mind you this is for the SMR 50mm Marzocchi forks. It may be easier to get them for the 48mm Kayaba forks on the TE/TC.
Got a smr so thats no good for me. Might just get the original ones valved and re sprung . prefer not to spend that much $
You guys must be seriously fast. When I do a track day on my bike the limiting factor is me not the bike. I can get some killer lean angles outta this thing and drive HARD out of the corners while leaned over and it just hooks! Only issue I have is on super tight s curves throwing the bike side to side quickly is pretty hard. Like where you need to change directions instantly from leaned over right to left then a u turn. That is where all the "race bikes" on slicks pass me up. But man out of the corners my bike just rails in a serious fashion!
It's the opposite for me. I can out corner most and make majority of my passes there and on the dirt, it's out of the corners that other guys pull away from me. I am finding I have to physically put weight over the front end to keep traction on the front wheel. If I get lazy I can start to lose the front. I have never ridden with tuned suspension so I'm keen to give it a try.
With my 511 it can pass built crf450's out of corners if they are wider. Here is a video of me chasing a friend on a 58ish whp race bike. Better rider, on a very nice bike. But he is also new to the bike and taking it easy....you will see the drive out of corners at the end of the video hes not really pulling me at all. skip to 7min 7 sec View: http://youtu.be/JuJX93JiFr0?t=7m7s Slow laps because some newbies were crashing in every corner so we slowed down. I am still a newbie but it seems consistent. Even with 15/44 gearing at sonoma I eventually ended up walking most of the race bikes but the tracks are so tight. I have; Factory neck and velocity stack with a uni pod filter over it. NO AIRBOX! Power commander V with custom ignition and fuel mapping, also have auto tune! The auto tune wideband sensor blocks part of the header pipe flow so it is probably costing some tq. Removed the secondary throttle plate Race map 3 from Zip ty. Powercore 4 slip on with spark arrestor. Loudest tip you can get. Header wrapped the head pipe to the silencer (helps keep exhaust temp and flow up) I have also added a larger ground from battery to the coil/harness, and flipped the capacitor towards the rear of the engine. I run 91 octane, but ran .5 gallon of 100 at the track and holy hell that thing revved out SO much better! So I am in search of a pump with some 98 or better. I think these bikes have the power once those mods are done, or maybe its the spread of power (rpm range) or something, but it does very well for me. Its just heavy....Only complaint. IF I could lose 15lbs off the bike or maybe 20lbs it would be perfect! (tc449 anyone?)
Nice video. 91 octane pump gas is too low for your pc maps and you should be running at least Lucas or Torco octane boost on top of it. I wouldn't recommend using race fuel unless you don't mind repairing your fuel pumps ever 6 months, race gas eats Husky o-rings.
I usually use 91 with the lucas oil fuel inj. and top end lube which says its an "octane booster" but who knows. I put a bit in every tank. Thanks for the info on the race gas. I did not know if the sunco was mixed 91 with e85 to raise octane, or if its true race gas. BUT MAN THIS THING FLIES ON 100 !.
Might be good to add to the first post under Beringer Brakes: Beringer will try to supply a 320mm rotor with 6x8mm bolt holes for our bikes. (No good we need 4x8mm What you want when you order is a 310mm rotor 4x6mm (you have to drill the bolt holes out to 8mm) The 4x6mm format will fit Talon hubs as they use 6mm rotor bolts, now this may also cross over to TE/TC hubs vs SMR hubs? Do TE/TC use 6mm rotor bolts on stock hubs?
