Race Map II Plug

These two statements are not completely correct. The PC5 can adjust the idle circuit electronically, while not often used, there are advanced timer circuits available for automatic choking. The second butterfly removal does not reduce lean conditions, therefor does not prevent flame outs. In some cases, removing the second butterfly will promote a lean condition and increase flame out conditions, especially during the 0 to 2% throttle section. It does however reduce dead throttle issues which are caused by faulty electrical connections to the servo motor. When operating properly, the electronics do operate fast enough for quick snap throttle operation.

If you do choose to remove your secondary butterfly, I suggest you purchase either a JD tuner or a powercommander 5. The JD unit is cheaper, though there is greater functionality through the PC5.

It's splitting hairs, but I meant as delivered & programmed out of the box, the PCV doesn't look after idle.
Will it actually control a stepper motor? It would be a nice touch if it could, I can only find reference to the spare analogue 0-5v input.

Your butterfly statement is partially correct to.
The butterfly removal does definitely help with flameouts, one cause of which is as you said the lean factory TPS setting & mapping off idle which can be adjusted or masked with a tuner like the PCV or JD.

Another cause is the second butterfly's delay as in the video above going from closed, to open, to closed & then opened wide again in quick succession.
The system sees the big increase in primary TPS voltage reading and delivers fuel for a big throttle opening,
the second butterfly remains at a near-idle setting choking off the air & and a stall is the result.
I can re-create the exact conditions & make it happen with the butterfly in, and it stops with it out.

Yes, they do need extra fuel added (which is mentioned in the original butterfly post) especially if you have an open pipe on the bike.

The stall is not a flame out. That is two entirely different things.

Hair-splitting, the engine stops when power is requested.
In the instance described, the butterfly system is the cause.

I received my diode from Hall's, and we'll, it doesn't fit the plug on my bike. I double checked and made sure I ordered the correct part, which I did. Did I miss something? Did the "power up" plug change for the '13 -14 bikes?

Did you remove the plug cover first? You really don't need it, a simple wire shunt will work.

Yes, removed the cap :P I'll take a pic and post it up tnite. I have a wire in it, but I wanted something more permanent, but I guess the wire will be it. It's weird, the part number on my order is correct, but the part is so far off from fitting. Not sure it's even worth shipping back to Hall's, even though the shipping cost 4x the amount of the part -_- Grr

Post up pics like you said. I'd be interested to see whats going on there.

Ok, here are some pics of the part. It definitely does not look like the what I see posted online.

Looks like I might have got the wrong part. I think it should be 8000H5440, no?

Wrong plug, that's for an older 450.

Should look like:

One of my buddy's got a new 511 and the dealer didn't give him plug so I gave him mine. Seriously, as mentioned above you don't need the plug or even to make a wire shunt. Just cut the connector off, wrap the wires together and crimp or solder then insulate. After warranty, there'll never be a reason to run in map 1 mode again.

Yep, wrong plug for sure. Oh well. Not worth it to return it, and the wire shunt seems to work just fine, so I'll just leave it be.

Waiting for my PC V to come from ZipTy. Once that's installed, do I even need this still?

Yes, you still need to run in Race Map II mode as the ecu runs in 'open loop' fueling instead of 'closed loop' trying to lean out the mixtures.

All right, but if want to update EFI map by HST on your bike without removing, then you need open this circuit again and connect lambda sensor one time.

You have to remove the plug, but you don't have to have O2 sensor plugged in. I use a switch on my handlebars. It doubles as a hotstart button.

If you switch ECU to "euro3" mode without connected O2/Heater and update ECU software, O2/heater error will not be saved to the ECU? I don't try to update ECU with disconnected O2.
When you start engine in "euro3" without O2, error will remain in the ECU necessarily, but this error isn't fatal.

I've updated over a thousand ecu's without the O2 attached.