• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Power Commander 5 and Autotune on a '13 TE 310R

Johnrg

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Dynojet installed all parts as well as dynotuned my bike this week while I was on a mtb trip to Cedar City and Gooseberry Mesa. I wanted a switch and the ability to utilize a second map for high elevations and future tuning if I was to go for a pipe at some point or after engine work. Owners are limited to Map3 which as you can see by the table from my PCV is very good in any case. Only minor map changes were made on the dyno. Looking at the dyno files the bike has 29.6 HP and I think 18ft.lbs torque.

It's nice to have a wide band O2 sensor now and a map switch to be able to switch autotune on and off and switch between two maps when autotune is shut off. Cost to me was free for the PCV and all installations since they thought maybe this would be a marketed kit. They did say when I picked up the bike that I am the exclusive PCV owner on this model year bike as they may not in the end make a kit due to being a short end of life model. In the end I paid cost for the Autotune module and switch.

Screen shot of the base map and dyno trims...

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Modules installed neatly on the right side...

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18mm O2 Sensor in place of stock 12mm (required removal of stock 12mm mount and and welding on the mount for the 18)...

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Routed under left sidepanel ...

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Switch...

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3 days of high elevation riding in Utah during install...

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While most would never need or want this, I may own this bike a long time and nice to have the options to tune. Contact Chris Kelly at Dynojet if you seek a PCV for the '13/'14.
 
Maybe that's rear wheel HP. If so my 29.6 becomes 35.64 HP. (20% offset). Found a few links looking for horsepower info...

See pages 18-19 for torque and HP Dyno figures of the 12. Then taking into account the supposed differences in spec from 12-13 and that this test bike probably had it powered up (though I do see a canister hanging there)... http://mcnews.com/mcn/model_eval/2012AprTE310.pdf

Random discussion... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husqvarna-te-310-43-hp.10087/
and more ... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2012-2013-txc-310-need-help.28017/

Change from 12-13 or increase of 1+ ft. lbs. and 2 HP looks about right.

I added some green lines to the 12 dyno map from the article, to show how each differs (from the graphs I saw on the dyno) and why most say the midrange a significant update.

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Final map w/Autotune for sea level. Scared myself today... On the street I ran through the gears to redline. Whoa... This puppy revs and finally jetted right. Had to push forward in the seat when cracking the throttle wide open :applause:

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I missed this thread. Thank you for paving the way for these powercommanders. I have no doubt that one phone call to Chris from Ty would yield pcv units for everyone. I wish I had this for Nantista's 310, it definitely needed one.
 
Ran 40 miles at 6,900-8,600 feet. today on Casto Canyon and the Fremont trail near Panguitch and Bryce, to start a high elevation map.

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Based upon my leaner sea level map you can see the trim table that was generated today. Leaning it out a bit more... There was not one pop or stumble and hot re-starts allowed me to roll the throttle just a tad (instead of staying off it and waiting a few minutes) and fires right up. I had my max trim set to 10% and I have a feeling it may adjust a hair more so will do some more runs at high elevations to get a final map.

It's quite clear with this trim and my leaner sea level map that the 310 can use the PCV for custom tuning. The air sensor, etc.. just isn't enough stock to alter the fueling.

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This screen shot shows the High Elevation Trim #1 added to my Sea level Map (all based on Map 3).

cumulativemap_post_high_el_trim1.JPG
 
Final High Elevation Map is complete. Yesterdays trims were added yesterday and below are additional trims for 6800 to 9400 feet of elevation. Last table below is a screen shot of the Final Map. So 2 good maps can be had if you just get the PCV.

final_high_elev_trims.JPG

Final High Elevation Map Generated at 6800-9400ft. (based on Map 3).

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Fun place to get work done... and camp and ride. Tropic Reservoir - Straight Canyon. Just outside of Bryce.

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Top of Trail 105

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In Moab at 4,000ft. Changed setup to running two maps; sea level and high elevation. This is what I was after, but even better is having two custom maps generated myself. Worth the time to get it done. Glad I didn't back out of doing it
 
Those are hp ratings for the black heads. The red head puts out 38.6hp. I can get the black heads up there, but it requires head porting, an exhaust system and a pcv.
 
I just purchased another Italian Husky..this time its 2013 TE 310 to go along with my 2011 TE630 and my 14 TXC310..It is as new with 3000km on it.. It runs so lean it barely moves... Just to clarify.. Should I buy the PCV or re map the stock ECU ? Do both? Help... Intake and the exhaust have had the blockage removed.
My plan is to send the ECU to Zip Ty for modification to be used for off road use only...
 
I just purchased another Italian Husky..this time its 2013 TE 310 to go along with my 2011 TE630 and my 14 TXC310..It is as new with 3000km on it.. It runs so lean it barely moves... Just to clarify.. Should I buy the PCV or re map the stock ECU ? Do both? Help... Intake and the exhaust have had the blockage removed.
My plan is to send the ECU to Zip Ty for modification to be used for off road use only...

definitely do the ($40) re-map first. After which, you can make the decision whether to spend the additional money ($300+). I'm pretty happy with my '14 TE310r after ZTR worked it's magic on the ECU.

edit: hell, just plug your TXC ECU into the TE... that should tell you right away if the remap is gonna fix things for you. (make sure your TE is uncorked: velocity stack mod, air filter cage, maybe catalyst removal)

good luck.
 
Get the TE flashed with Map 3. For 90% of riding it works well (actually not just well but incredibly well. Stock just does not run reliably and will get you killed stalling at every intersection). If you move to the PCV, my maps are based on Map 3 being on your ECU, so would be plug and play.
 
Thanks... I will do the ECU swap today.. O2 sensor is redundant at this point as well correct? Funny side bar.. I know all about the plastic fuel pump fitting.. My 14 has the metal one stock. Last night I was lifting the tank of the 13 and snap!! Another part for the the list.. I hope the starter drive and other quirks don't materialize. My 14 TXC has been flawless mechanically 100hrs in use to date..
 
Thanks... I will do the ECU swap today.. O2 sensor is redundant at this point as well correct? Funny side bar.. I know all about the plastic fuel pump fitting.. My 14 has the metal one stock. Last night I was lifting the tank of the 13 and snap!! Another part for the the list.. I hope the starter drive and other quirks don't materialize. My 14 TXC has been flawless mechanically 100hrs in use to date..

hey mbr- that plastic fitting isn't the problem (well- now that it is broke, I guess it is). It's the spiral-wrap "protective conduit" on the fuel line that gets hung up. When you raise the tank... the fitting breaks. Unless you have the new aluminum one- and then it's the quick-disconnect on the fuel line that breaks. And guess what? the whole fuel line costs $30.

I know because I did this on my '14 (admittedly, it was 20°F in my garage so plastic was brittle). I ended up making my own fuel line out of Gates FI hose and a couple of quick-disconnects. It's about an inch longer and way more flexible- which makes taking the tank off a breeze.

The stock teflon hose (think "heat-shrinking tubing" that's shrunken) is insanely stiff; hell- it's a pipe now. They insert it into regular fuel hose for protection and then put that spiral wrap around that (!). The teflon hose is for reduced porosity so it doesn't leak vapors; which would probably be a gram of gasoline over the life of the bike. sheesh.

bottom line: be careful when removing the tanks, even on the '14. If you feel resistance while lifting the rear of the tank, set it back down and try again, or slip your hand under it and move the fuel "pipe" around until it releases from whatever it's snagged on.

ZTR sells an aluminum replacement fitting with a better angle; and I guessing that probably a '14 fitting will work too.

good luck.
 
Update.. I installed the TXC ECU and it worked like a charm.. previous owner had not taken out or modified the Venturi stack. I swapped out the TXC one for the time being.. I may just drill bigger holes and see how that affects the power.. Looking for less intake noise as well.
Shipped my ECU to ZTR and will tinker some more... Had a starter issue this weekend. Pushed the button nothing,, Kicked and all good. Seems to be a random no go on the starter function. Almost like it can't turn the bike over... as in locked up.. Valve adjustment and auto decompressor adjustment or a starter crankshaft and corona wheel upgrade as they call it.. Thanks for the input.
 
good news.

just to be clear, the un-modified TE velocity stack is where most of the hp loss will be; BUT the TE air cage is also super-restrictive (for noise purposes, I'm guessing).

Use the TXC stack and cage (~$2.75) for the most HP. For most folks, noise attenuation isn't much of a concern on the intake... 'cept for manufactures I guess.
 
If you can kick it, decompressor may be fine. If you cannot kick reasonably then it is. The EarthX has more cranking power and doesn't bog down like the Yuasa. It can negate a lot of the poor starting issues. Once you get the filter cage and stack opened up with Map 3 you probably will be good. Consider sending Zip Ty your v stack too as he milled mine out when I had my ECU done.
 
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