If I recall the accell pump values I have are what Dynojet recommended. I started with it and it felt OK so I left it alone. I haven't tried different values for that to be honest. That was kinda a wild analogy but I get what you're trying to say. I will try your numbers and see how it feels. I get the issue with the autotune, it's kinda too bad as I like running closed circuit (ie AT enabled). It appears what's needed is a way to limit the AT's response to quick changes (ie accell pump). Like a setting that anything less than 5-10 seconds is ignored. This way it would not get upset and act more like a smoothing/correction feature. I think I'm going to try running with the AT disabled for a bit and see how much difference I can notice. I REALLY wish it was possible to just reprogram the base map tables like I do on my Guzzi, Triumph, and Ducati. That is so much better than mucking about with piggy back solutions. But this is still far better than a simple spoofer.
OK, I really have no idea what I'm doing but have tried to follow Tinker's advice. If anyone can help that would be great!
Can you explain that some more? At idle the AFR should be steadier than that once the engine is warmed up.
My lap top decided to fry itself. I am not able to get a screen shot of my map. I will post one as soon as I can get a laptop.
Did some tuning this weekend and without knowing much about how to set the map up myself I went back to the auto tune. AT comes set at AFR of 13.2 across the board so I reset to 13.5 for most if the table except for start /idle range where I set to 12.9. Bike ran a lot better and didn't seem to be as rich as prior setting. I will save the map it created but will try an AFR of 13.7 next trip out. I suspect I will see improved power from this.
Roger, it didn't fluctuate between those AFR's it was just the difference between previous map and the one I posted. Previous map was the stock setup from PC. I would really like to put this bike on a dyno for tuning but there are none close to me that I know of.
I think you can set auto tune to wait for a period of time after starting, before making autotune adjustments. If you can I would set that time to be long enough for the engine to fully warm up. This is important because your ECU has various enrichments for starting, immediately after starting and during warmup. An idle AFR of 13.5 to 13.8 usually works quite well once the engine is warm. For the rest of the map I would try 13.5 or 13.8 below half throttle tapering from there to 12.9 at WOT. You probably don't need a dyno but don't accept large fueling swings from row to row or column to column. For example is you see -15 next to a +18 ask yourself if that seems right.
Thanks for the input. I have the auto tune set to 2 minutes and always start up a few minutes for warm up. From what I understand about it, the trim levels should set themselves after they have been run in at each RPM range based on programed AFR. Correct? So I'm thinking if I just save these each time, at different AFR's I should be able to create the map that works best for me. Would you say not to go Leaner than 13.8 at up to around the mid range? From what I have read 14.7 is ideal for maximum performance. Probably not best for a long lasting engine.
If you don't like the loss of engine braking with the std PCV map try changing the 0 throttle setting to -100 from 2000 to 8000 RPM, fixed mine.
If you have trouble with loss of engine braking set 0 throttle to -100 from 2000 to 8000 RPM, worked for me after talking to Dynojet today.
