Options for improving TR650 forks....

[turtlemoye]

Something like this.

Details?

 

[drzcharlie]

No kidding, details please. What the heck, you tease us without details? Fess up!

 

[msmith345]

No kidding, details please. What the heck, you tease us without details? Fess up!

No Kidding! I've been throwing around the idea of fitting different triples and setting up KYB 48s on there (Because re-built re-tuned used KYB 48s are much cheaper than Ohlins)..If and when I decide the stock suspenders just won't cut it.

The ignition switch is missing, so I assume it's just a mock up. I haven't looked at it too closely, but I think we'd need to go a bit custom on the top triple to give the stock ignition (with antennae and crap) a place to live.

 

[O.e.hansson]

Well, its ohlins factory triples, stearing damper and ttx legs. Its got the hardest mx springs and a "road race" setting in it ( its going to be used for some track days), allso its a bit shortened, its got about 2times the travel of the original. Maybe ill have to shorten it further but ill leave it for now since im working on the rear shock. Had some fabrication done for fitting the new top bearing to go with the stearing damper.
The ignition switch is relocated to behind the radiator on the right side above the valve cover( that pic is a few weeks old you can see it hanging on the handlebar) just extended the cables and made a bracket. It didnt fit between the headlight and top clamp.
Then of course new wheel axel, calliper adaptor, its now a 4piston brembo calliper from a ducati, and ducati wheels. Thats why the rotation of the rear wheel is wrong. So no stearing lock and no abs. I made the bashplate a while ago when it was in "off road" outfit, but i think ill leave it on for the track it protects the enginge nicely on the sides.

 

[O.e.hansson]

 

[drzcharlie]

Dang that bike is sweet!

 

[Clete]

Heck ya it's sweet. Like the red bars

 

[O.e.hansson]

Thanks!

 

[Clete]

Can't wait to what you come up with for the shock.
I'm afraid to ask what the front end costs.
Some serious talent there sir.

 

[Thumpa]

O e hansonn, we're gonna' have to twist your arm for a full write up on this one when all's said and done. The dogs bollocks in the making, nice work!

 

[RidingDonkeys]

Turtle,
You might reach out to these guys, http://www.motocd.com/mc/

They are in Asheville and are suspension experts.

Just stepping into this thread. That would be Rick from Cogent. He was at RDV with several of us this past weekend. Long story short, he can work it, but it isn't going to be cheap. A complete fork swap would likely be the most cost effective route.

 

[mag00]

I had a chance to buy a Cannondale motorcycle ($1,500). They come stock with 46mm Ohlins front. The front tubes would bolt into the tripple clamp fine, and who knows about the bottom and axle fitment. The diameter at the tripple clamps was 1mm off of what the Terra is. There should be plenty of wiggle room in the triple clamp (+1mm and -2mm) What stopped me was the length of the ohlins forks. The length of the Terra is about 33.5, the length of the cannondale ohlins was 38. If you wanted more ground clearance and travel, that might be a good option for you to go.

The rear ohlins from the cannondale will not work at all. I'll stick to stock for now, maybe buy a lighter more dirt oriented bike for the tougher trails.

 

[turtlemoye]

Here's a slo-mo video of me almost eating shit this past weekend after I bottomed out the fork. I ride my Terra hard and sometimes actually forget which bike I'm riding and ride it too hard. I actually bottomed out the fork on the first water bar at about 25 sec but the big hit is at :37sec.

 

[Shawn Johnson]

I'll start by saying I honestly don't know much about how suspension really works. I do know that we are limited with the adjustments with the stock fork and I'm curious what others have done or have considered.

I'm about 240#s so at the very least I know I'm underspung for my weight but I've heard many others mention bottoming out the fork in the ruff stuff. I also ran across these preload adjusters today on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291029970489?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Can the forks be rebuilt or swapped? I don't know if the forks on a Sertao are the same but I've heard similar complaints about those and a guy I met said he was swapping the internals for those from a YZ250 I think.

Any other options or ideas?

I installed a Yamaha YZ426F complete front end. Forks/wheel/brake system. I just posted a thread on how to install them. This make the bike a real joy to ride. The stock spring work perfect for my 220lb body.

 

[Nick780]

Since I come in at a slim 145 lbs. our suspension feels mighty stiff for me. Finally wrapped up something I've been looking to do for a while and I'm happy to say the front end feels significantly better. I replaced the stock pre-load spacers by purchasing $15 of 1.5" diameter (slightly larger than the diameter of our spacers but fits fine) UHMW rod stock and lathed in the shoulder, but reduced the spacing by 5mm (stock was around 96mm IIRC.) Mounting a 7/8" spade on the lathe allowed for a centered bore throughout the rod but was still slightly too tight to fit through the for internals. A bit of elbow grease with a rough round-file took care of that.

Stock oil level is about 130mm from top cap, pretty thick fluid. Filled both sides to 140mm using 2.5 weight on the right (compression) and 5 weight on the left (rebound.) End result is that the front end acts way smoother, far less jarring and fully responsive. The stock plastic spacers are cheap and flimsy but the 1.5" UHMW rod is an inexpensive stock part that's pretty easy to work with.

 

[engineerk9]

There is a cartridge replacement called the "Shiver Fork Conversion" by Konflict Suspensions.

Our fork internals are one cartridge and not rebuildable or adjustable with the exception of changing the fork oil weight which provides a minor benefit but nothing that would improve overall service and ride. Setting your static and rider sag should be considered to get optimal performance from the available suspension.

Another thing to consider is that our forks each have separate operating parameters., one is compression and the other rebound. Fork oil height can also help with better performance. You can add 4 or 5cc's at a time to each tube (after measuring current height of course). To do this put the bike on a lift with the forks fully extended, pull the cap, measure current height and add oil a little at a time. Re-cap and try it. You may have to do this several times. If you get too much in the forks you can remove it with a syringe and plastic tube (think turkey injector).

I am reasonably sure that the Husky has 46MM Sachs forks and Sachs rear shock. The forks are not wimpy by any means but the internals leave a lot to be desired. Perhaps a retrofit to another bikes 46mm forks would be a viable option?

Actually the forks are totally re-buildable & easily worked on
I've just converted mine to both compression & re-bound damping
The characteristics can be varied using varying shim stacks
Speak with Terry Hay at Shock Treatment
It's a more logical improvement than trying to get other forks to work

 

[kiwiape]

Actually the forks are totally re-buildable & easily worked on
I've just converted mine to both compression & re-bound damping
The characteristics can be varied using varying shim stacks
Speak with Terry Hay at Shock Treatment
It's a more logical improvement than trying to get other forks to work

so true.

 

[Clete]

Speak with Terry Hay at Shock Treatment

Where they located? Do you have a link for them?

 

[nev..]

Where they located? Do you have a link for them?

A bit of a ride/swim from Tigard. They're in Sydney Australia.

 

[Clete]

A bit of a ride/swim from Tigard. They're in Sydney Australia.

Darn it! you guys seem to have to some good TR resources.

engineerk9, would you mind sharing what the fork work cost ya?
if i remember correctly Konflict (Seattle) was 6-800, very similar to any other fork revalve job.