New to me TE511!

[Riding Again]

I thought maybe I would start a new thread to document the journey of fine tuning the motorcycle I have to suit my tastes. I have seen other people do it and creates a good conversation and tracks the process. This thread will be a little different then most of those because the bike I bought has a lot already done and for the most part done well. This bike just needs a little fine tuning to get it where I want it to be. Difference of preference and wrapping up some little things. I will make a list of current things changed from stock to keep inventory and give insight to what I am working with. Help keep track of what is equipped and discover more information of what I should know about the bike. Then edit this post to current build of the bike. Some times helps in determining answers in questions.

First off the way the bike sits currently:

2012 Husqvarna TE511

Current Stock odometer reads 1600 miles. Everything else reads 0.

Engine Mods-
Zipty crankcase vent re circulation going to second hole of screened filter
Power Commander with recent autotune installation (maybe 3 hours on auto tune)
Zipty Oil filter housing cover
Hi-Flo oil filter or stock?
3 Twin air filter
Mobile euro spec 0w-40
Red Aluminum radiator guards

Exhaust-
Akropovic titanium rear exhaust can
Giant Loops exhaust guard
Narrow band o2 bung welded into stock exhaust header?
Exhaust heat wrap with shielding for ziptty recirc hose



Suspension mods-
Full zipty suspension rebuild 5 hours ago dialed in for 275lb rider and 1" lower internal mod
Do have original springs as well.
At this time bearings and every thing related greased or replaced
Dirt skins

Electronics-
Trail Tech Voyager- Power, GPS sensor, and temperature gage hooked up
Cheap vibration hour meter
Original dash showing 1612 hours
Ignition key
Battery tender hook up to maintain battery.

Chasis and Body-
So no changes in frame really
Moose Racing hand guards and red plastic wind protection
Body has two tails-
Stock rear no holes. Tag still usable but all the heavy stuff gone.
Second rear white plastic tail was designed to add the trail luggage plate
No turn signals in the back with rear brake light and carbon fiber faux front turn signals
Front fender has the GPS sensor mounted as far forward right before the husky logo, A couple holes drilled to zip tie the wire in place.
MR Rear tail rack

Brakes-
Front and Rear brake pads have been replaced EBC Red Pads
brake lever changed with extended tip added

Clutch and Transmission-
Just bleed Clutch line with Belray dot 4
stock clutch lever
Shorty clutch lever

Sprockects-
3 rear sprockets- 53 and 48 aluminum Renthal, 51 steel stock sprocket?
Stock front sprocket

Renthal Gold chain

Tires-Wheels
Front- 21" Fatty Tire, 90/100/21 Golden Tyre GT216AAHB
Rear- Pirelli Scorpion 140/80/18 M/C 70MMS XC mid Hard

Parts Bin with all stock and misc. parts-

 

[Riding Again]

So I have done a lot of research before and after purchase of bike. A lot of help here on Cafehusky from previous and current members! I have started other threads and will add some of them here to document thoughts and process along the way. At first this will start out with figuring out areas to refine, fix and update. Then replace and tweak as I go.

1. First problem to address- Notorious clutch drag! Getting Better with usage?
2. Trail Tech RPM installation Ordered
3. Random wire I found that is not hooked up Just tip tied it for the moment and will get back to this. Wire is to radiator temperature gauge in radiator hose. Why disconnected and temperature sensor put in between radiator fins?
4. Power Commander research and auto tune dial in. USB Ordered, Downloaded software
5. Mirrors on bike for legality Ordered
6. Possible flush mount rear turn blinkers (hate arm signals) Ordered
7. Research on scotts steering dampener Printed manual
8. steg pegs usage Researched try to use next time riding
9. Tubeliss in the rear but not in the front
10. Maybe a cyclops headlight if I ride this offroad/pnroad at night
11. Turn signals on rear/ Different turn signals on front Ordered
12. License plate light? https://www.customdynamics.com/led-tag-boltz-with-white-tag-leds?cat=45
13. Ride it on and offroad a lot more as I go! Done, Done ONRoad

 

[Riding Again]

This is adding some previous conversation that have been posted publicly to keep track of progress and give credit to any help! I appreciate all help and conversation in general. Maybe just add your opinion of the thread if you want and create some friends along the way.

Saw your other post on the voyager...can't help with that, there should be lots of posts about 449/511 set up in 4 stroke section. Dash will read map 1 or 2 and 2 is power up mode. You can have your ecu reflashed to map 3 or akropovic open map I believe it is called. Your dash will still read map 2 even though your in reflash or map 3 mode. Ziptyracing may still offer map 3 reflash, fmf will definitely make it run way better. I would call Ziptyracing they are very familiar with this bike and can dial you in. I had 2013 449 and 511, took smog junk off reflashed ecu map 3 installed fmf slip on and both ran good. There's also tons of info about flameouts on here and removing butterfly, they are a quirky beast imo but look back thru the husqvarna Italy 4 stroke threads I think everything about these bikes were discussed there​

Teambowles,

Thank you for the help.I realized after a little while my account would be signed off and I had sign back in to see the stickies. lol Actually, the bike has everything from zipty racing, scotts steering stabilizer, akroprovic muffler, and a power commander with auto tune. The voyager shows tune 2 in the top right hand corner of the screen. In the other post on the voyager I found a possible solution I am looking into as we speak. I will need to start figuring out the power commander and auto tune. The owner flashed the power commander not sure which tune and installed the auto tuner. I do not think the A/F ratios have been messed with to help dial the auto tuner in since it has been installed 1.5 hours ago on the bike with welded wideband o2 sensor. I have spoke with Jeremy with zipty about my bike and he has helped a lot over the last 2 days. The bike about 10 hours ago had a full suspension service by zipty and set for 275lbs and lowered a inch in the back. Luckily I am 260 lbs and will carry 15 lbs in a military style harness backpack with hydration pack. For the most part the bike is dialed and just needs minors tweaks to be finished perfectly.​

Riding Again, Friday at 5:01 PM​

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Teambowles, ​

Awesome glad to hear all that. If Ziptyracing had their hands on your bike I bet you'll be good to go or if PO went thru them all should be good. Never messed with power commander or auto tune. R Little on here has a lot of experience with those I think maybe pm him or a few others like danger mouse and a few more. Good luck and enjoy.​

Teambowles, Yesterday at 2:59 PM​

R_Little or trenchcoat85 or dangermousse all awesome members with lots of info Teambowles,​

well, thanks... but I definitely would not consider myself a 449/511 expert. My kid has one (JD, Q4, head vent, de-smogged) and it is a total rocketship with instantaneous throttle response. So much so that I bought a 310 instead when I could've gotten a 449 for the same price.

Dangermouse (the australian one... there used to be someone from NJ too) would be the go-to guy for these bikes. He also runs the FB group I believe. I hate to drive traffic away from CH, but you might wanna check it out.

I will say these are great bikes with strong motors. Do the rotor bolt change (cheap, fast), head crankcase vent, and maybe remove the fly-by-wire throttle plate (although my kid's is still in and he as no issues on his '12 511) and you should be pretty happy.

good luck. Trenchcoat85​

Thank you Trenchcoat85.

This bike for the most part is sorted out. Just needs to be dialed in. The stator bolts have been changed to arp with locktite, It has all zipty products. Crankcase breather, oil filter cap, gas cap, had oil screen plugs but they stripped out and went back to factory oil plugs, original owner changed oil every ride or every 5 hours. I think on this bike that is over kill but it was changed like the other dirt bikes they have. The secondary throttle plate was removed as well.

So this leaves the fine tuning part just to wrap up dialing the bike in. I think I will start a new thread to keep track as I go Instead of adding to this thread. Unless it is power commander related.​

Riding Again​

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[Riding Again]

I have also spoke to Dangermouse449, Huskynoobee, and Motosportz on private messages. I will leave those private but wanted to give them credit for helping with information!

This was before and after buying the bike.

So to start off with Problem 1:
When the original owner and his son brought the bike to my house the bike started perfectly no smoke, cold start right up. He is also a cafe husky member and as you can tell has done a lot research and upgrades to make the bike its current condition. Really cool guys and genuine in character. Although, as soon as it went into gear it stalled. Owner explained never had the problem and just bleed the clutch during full service before delivering bike. It had the original clutch lever on as well. I remember in my prior search on here that this bike is notorious for clutch drag because of the design. I thought ok this is fixable and not a concern. I offered to use my tools and we bleed any air pockets out of the clutch line. We did that and it did solve the problem. I read on here that some was having the problem and switched to a shorty style lever that gave better plunger depth and released the clutch better. Luckily for me and unfortunately for the owners son they had two other ktms on the trailer because they were going to the Polar Bear run here about an 1 1/2 away from my house next. On the sons KTM 300 xcw I believe he had a new shorty lever and we put it on the 511. This did help right away and gave the opportunity to ride it. I also noticed as the bike warmed up as some have mentioned that the clutch worked better going from neutral to first gear.

So every thing else checks out obviously I have the bike now and the shorty lever. I would like to find out and fix this clutch issue a little better. Not sure of the fix yet but the owner said he never had a problem with the original clutch lever and that was on the bike at delivery. If I can fix the clutch drag quickly I would like to send the shorty clutch lever back to original owners son. Kind of felt bad but also had to have a running operating motorcycle to make the deal.

So yesterday I went in the morning to dmv/tax office. I changed the title and registered the bike. When I got home I convinced my son we can work on the bikes together. Whole point of buying this more dirt oriented bike. Technically traded my 15 triumph tiger 800 xcx and cash to go more dirt oriented. Back to the story. My son agreed and we went outside started on his 17 Honda CRF110F. Showed him how to put the bike on a crate take off the chain guard, clean the chain and then relube it. He is 11 and just geeting into dirt bikes. I do 75% of the work to help keep it fun so far. Then decided to put my tag on my bike and clean and relube the chain and sprocket on my bike. This showed my son that most motorcycle you do the same chain cleaning and how to adjust different bikes.

After this was done I fired my 511 up and noticed could would not go into gear again with out stalling. Let it warm up and started getting better and then I could engage and go.

Still need to work on clutch. Maybe air in line? Maybe not. Done some research and seen a spacer that people have added to the clutch pack to help the clutch disengage more. Also the owner uses a light weight 0w40 mobile euro spec oil. Maybe I need to ride it a lot more and the clutches are just a little sticky from not being used a whole lot lately while original owner did maintenance and had another ktm500 xcw six days to ride?

I think a ride out to my uncles about 45 miles from and then we ride to Ocala national forest for some off road open dirt road to tight trail exploration is in order. This is scheduled for next weekend. Maybe get a chance to ride locally this week some times when it gets back from 30 degrees to 75 degress later in the week.

 

[Riding Again]

Some pictures already taken. I will get more in depth pictures maybe later today or tomorrow and update.

 

[Riding Again]

Number 2 problem I have a ongoing post already so here is the link.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te511-voyager-tachometer.88241/

 

[Big Timmy]

Your final clutch stack cluster free play can be adjusted to keep the clutch drag to a minimum.

This is done with the final plate between the last clutch plate that goes into the clutch last under the diaphragm spring/clutch cover.

I believe there are several different thicknesses available, read this write up by "Helmut" here on Café Husky. He is member "9880sts"

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-clutch-adjustment-with-shim-and-assembly.45458/#post-446437

A Husqvarna or BMW dealer can both get these plates as they are the same for the BMW G450X.

 

[Huskynoobee]

BT is right. Seems the clutch drag really came about on the '12 models. The Mobil1 is good for these bikes. My clutch really felt better when I switched over. If the lever mod isn't solid enough in terms of a solution, and you're sure the line is properly bled, the thread referred to by Timmy is the best step by step way to get the correct shim in there.

Motosportz is with TrailTech these days so he is your best go to guy for advice on getting the tach sorted.

If the bike is running well with the PCV and the base map loaded on it, it might not be necessary to do anything more than just ride it. With the AutoTune it has an active O2 sensor that makes mixture adjustment over time.

The best thing I've read so far is that you have a son to go ride with. Go put some miles on those bikes together!

 

[Riding Again]

I believe I did find this page and was referencing the shim in other words. Thank you for reminder as reading about 50 threads and hundreds of posts and pages things get mixed up and lost. lol I have luckily never had to mess with a clutch before. Only experience has been on cable actuated clutches and adjust and lube the cable. So this post will help me jump into tearing into and learning correctly on this bike. Going to ride it a few miles today maybe and some more next weekend to really see what is going on with the clutch. May just need to be warmed up and rode to be acceptable. I have 10 minutes on the bike so far. Has been 30 degrees here in north Florida.

What do you think Big Timmy? Thank you for the help too.

 

[Riding Again]

Thanks for the help huskynoobee!

"The best thing I've read so far is that you have a son to go ride with. Go put some miles on those bikes together!" Huskynoobee,​

This is the number 1 reason I changed from lone adventure riding to 90% dirt bike and every once in a while to the store rides. I slightly mentioned the original owner and his son. The reason he wanted another tiger 800, so him and his son could go adventure riding together. They have already rode dirt bikes and events together. I am a family man and nothing cooler than your son being your riding partner. Currently other than two rides together we play video games and practice on his flag football skills. ​

 

[Riding Again]

So it was in the mid 50's and my best friend had a baby shower at the local park. I took the bike to get some miles and riding time to start seeing how it runs. The park is about 5 miles away so not a huge distance. It lets the bike get up to temperature and then I am there. lol I let the bike idle and warm up to 120 degrees then left. I had a total of 3 stalls. One there and 2 coming back. Each at a stop light waiting on my wife or traffic. Did notice you can smell fuel and it is harder to restart. No gas is best to clear the piston and crank it seemed. Not a big deal as a new bike usually stall it once or twice getting used to the clutch. One thing I am going to try next time is stop in neutral. Each time I stopped in first like every other bike I have had. This is what I have learned to be the best procedure because if you need to get out of the way you are in gear. Clutch maybe still dragging and when I stop the bike idling kills with the slight drag.

With the 53 tooth sprocket it likes to cruise at about 50 to 55 mph. I could have went faster but the road there was only 45 and 30 mph. Since this is not what I want to do a lot of road miles keeping the 53 tooth sprocket on will help not put a ton of pavement miles on the bike. Here you can put a lot of hwy miles on a bike because of how flat and fast the hwys are. In North Florida there is spread out cities and each has its on unique cool things you can do. Some time this week I am going to go explore the oldest road in america that runs through my county and goes north. It is old brick and other than the middle where you can see the brick the rest is covered in dirt. I will try to take some pictures and add to this.

The bike is super light and tall. I still have to use the foot pegs to get on the bike on the stand then once on the bike my weight brings it down just to touch the ground perfectly comfortably and tall as it can be. In the short ride I could of forgot how light it is until I started to play around over bumps and variances in the road. Tires even though knobby not too bad at 55 mph. I realize it will get worse the faster I go as it does have plenty of vibes at 55 mph but manageable. Maybe if I ride it some more the autotune will keep tuning and by the time I figure out how to mess with it should be closer on the money anyways. Once I get the tachometer working then I can see what the bike is idling at. Seen where I think dangermouse suggested to turn idle to 20-2150rpm.

Edit: Forgot to mention that I realized there is no mirrors, front right turn signal bulb out and do I need a license plate light? Going to eventually change the front signals to leds and the rear to the low mount leds rear. Maybe add the double take mirrors. Just have not decided eaxctly which ones I want yet.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

stalls: I can't remember what the specified idle rpm's are for the 511 (I'm guessing 2000) but make sure it's correct [edit: just re-read your post- I agree with DM's recommendation]. Keep one foot on the pegs at stops- it's more stable on a tall dirt bike (use your right foot if you have a choice). At stops, lean the bike slightly, and scoot your ass over if you have to. I doubt the MSF recommends that, but they're not always right.

get a mirror- lotsa cops use that as a visual signal of the legality of a bike and it's a godsend on the street. My son has a double-take mirror and he loves it. Personally, I think it's fugly (but functional). I use one stock mirror; I do serious single track (6000+ miles) and have had no problems with a gazillion falls.

License plate light- don't worry about it at all (but the law says you should have one here in Kommiefornia).

 

[Riding Again]

I am 6'3" with a 30" inseam and I have always ridden taller bikes. So the height is no problem for me. I try to put my left foot down and keep my right on the rear brake. This bike is about the same height as the last 2 bikes before it and a lot lighter. Maybe half the weight of my Tiger 800 xcx with luggage.

The stall maybe the power commander and auto tune learning as well. The clutch does drag a little when it is cold. It is not normally 40-50 degrees during the high of the day as well. So I will ride it a little while and get used to the bike then reassess the problems.

Yeah going to order a mirror shortly and good advice to just get it legal. Thinking for now just a left hand side doubletake trail mirror for now to be legal need one mirror. Do not get me wrong, I think there should be two mirrors on a motorcycle or you will get in an accident. Although I do not plan on this being on the hwy and on more than 55 mph road. Plan to keep this a back road tight trail bike. The tag light I will work on when I add rear turn signals

 

[Riding Again]

So I put in an order for The Trail Tech Tachometer wire, Double Take Trail mirror, Front stalk LED and rear flush mount LED with solid state blinker relay, and USB cord to hook up the power commander.

This will be my first modifications. Next I spoke to P3 Carbon and they still stock the Carbon Fiber bash plate and header guard. Maybe have to enter this into my to do list that will keep expanding. lol

This is a good start and things will start coming in by the weekend.

 

[Riding Again]

Good Information when my turn signals come in.

Also, the color coding for the rear signal wiring is blue and brown, blue being negative and brown is positive. But! The front is opposite, brown is negative and colored wire is positive.

The one I used is a universal EP-35 found at Autozone for $12.99.

Zip tied to the original location.

Large wire on the far right is an added ground wire that I ran back to the negative post on my battery.
Tinken, Oct 18, 2012

Good Information In General

Here's the parts manual (IMO even more useful than the WSM):​

docs.husqvarnaoutlet.com/parts//2013%20TE449-511%20Parts.pdf​

​

you can get a lot of husky manuals at:​

http://www.husqvarnaoutlet.com/home​

and​

http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/​

​

download 'em in case the internet breaks (and print 'em out I guess, for your binder)​

Trenchcoat85, Today at 2:19 PM​

Good Information about Power Commander When I get to this one Later ​

​

1. And here's the link to all of the downloads for the PCV manuals and software first:
   
   http://www.powercommander.com/power...der_downloads.aspx?ProdType=Power Commander V
   
   Map download page:
   
   http://www.powercommander.com/power...kup.aspx?mk=26&mdl=303&yr=2534&mdlyrid=23-007
   
   Info for the Autotune:
   http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/products/AutoTune/powercommander_autotune.aspx
   
   Self help guide (I selected loading maps but it covers other topics)
   http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/Help/wwhelp/wwhimpl/js/html/wwhelp.htm​
   Huskynoobee, Today at 4:06 PM​
2. ​
3. Here is the TINKEN map, use caution
   
   http://www.tinken.com/ziptyracing/racemaps/2014_Tinken_511.rar​

 

[Riding Again]

There will be plenty to learn with the Power Commander so I am going to do some of the really needed things first then start learning and messing with the power commander. I have not got to dial in or play with a power commander yet. I had a TR650 Terra and when I got my valves checked I asked service to install the power commander and add a base map. Well they fried the ecu by arcing something of the ecu and battery right next to it.

I think it would be a good idea to get the map loaded on the power commander when I get my USB cord. Give a good idea of what needs to be learned right away and then go from there.

 

[Huskynoobee]

Luckily the ECU on your 511 isn't in a metal case that can be shorted by someone turning a wrench on the battery!

 

[Riding Again]

So Picture time now that I have had some time to detail some things. Not where I keep my motorcycles but slowly getting there and I did some more after I tore alot of the bike apart today.

 

[Riding Again]

2 More Pictures.

 

[Riding Again]

So those pictures were after it rained this morning I pulled the bike out of the garage. I cleaned a little bit of the bike and plastics before I rode last time. Slowly keep detailing as I go. There is also a picture of the faux carbon fiber signals. PO just wanted a cheap set to throw on. I could not live with faux carbon fiber incandescent lamps. Makes me even more exciting to get the LED signals front and rear working.

I pulled the bike into the garage and then started taking the seat and side plastic panels off. I have included a picture of the random unhooked wire I tied up on Sunday before a short ride. I followed this wire behind the radiator and it is hooked up to where the radiator hose was spliced and temperature sensor installed for the Voyager. Now the Voyager already has a temperature sensor between the radiator fins and plugged into the Voyager for temperature. I sent a text to the original owners son to see if they knew why. I find it kind of odd the radiator hose sensor not to be used? I would think the radiator finned sensor to be less accurate? I thought I was noticing the water temperature kind of erratic the other day when I was driving down the road at 50 mph. Any input on this what be awesome if you guys read this too!

While on the subject of the Voyager I also traced a wire bike under the coil pack. As I have read a few times here that method does not work. Although it is a rpm signal wire for the tachometer the new looks a little more heavy duty. I will find out when it comes in. Either way I will have to take the air cover and other things off to fix the rpm wire and soldier it on to the coil wire. More research on this shortly.