Which Loctite product you are planning on using? This is an interesting idea and might work very well. The odds of having to remove a front sprocket in the field are also very slim (can't really think why you would ever need to) but if you do it could be a major pain without heat and some good persuasion tools... If you do this though I would say be very careful to ensure that none of the Loctite product gets between the countershaft and that metal spacer that sits on the outside of the engine case before the sprocket or you'll create other big(ger) problems.
As to the Locktite, I can't remember the exact product but an internet search will turn it up. I'll have to do it again. It's a product made specifically for this application, usually on much heavier equipment. Have to remove the sprocket with a puller but doesn't appear to be an issue. I think I will buy several front sprockets to be sure that the next one was machined the same. Yes, you need to make sure that you don't put too much on when installing the sprocket. This is not a problem unique to Husky or the 630. This trail has been ridden before!
Found it. Here is the thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/540670-counter-shaft-sprocket-loctite-fix/ Loctite 263 is the new product number. You may have to buy on line, or at Granger, etc. You will also need a three-jaw gear puller to remove the sprocket, but evidently the DRZ 400 has the same issue and this has solved it. Keep riding!
Cheers Kenneth, I'll look into that as an option for myself as well since I've got pullers and so forth as needed. Once it's all setup it would be easier to maintain than a thin film corrosion inhibitor or oil which seems like the only other good option. Edit: Ah righto, I have Loctite 263 lying around already. I think there might even be more specific products than that. If I find any I'll post it here.
I think you are right and don't forget that the shaft/sprocket could be shimmed so there would be no axial load on the output shaft if the primary sprocket could be secured like other long mileage chain drive bikes have been. The cir-clip was for quick change at the race track and worked very well for our race bike Huskys.
So from the above posts and TT drz 400 info it seems it could be wise to do the following to minimise wear . Remove sprocket. Clean spline & sprocket ( brake cleaner or sim ) 4 drop of 263 loctite on spline and reinstall sprocket .(been careful not to put too much on and keep only to spline / sprocket mating surfaces ) . Allow to cure for 24hrs. So whats the deal with greasing ? It seems thoughts are it is best to avoid using grease as it will only atttract dirt which could accelerate wear . ?
Yeah the greasing should be fine. Fitted a new sprocket on a mates 630 on the weekend and the gap is so tiny I doubt grit could get in between the splines and the sprocket...the countershaft seal inboard of the sprocket might get worn a bit faster perhaps but even that I doubt. I would say either grease or loctite has to be better than nothing (prevent rusting and reduce friction) and other peoples extensive testing seems to say the loctite option is worth trying and probably the preferred path.
Forgot to post a pic of the wheels I had Woody's build for me. Don't have a pic of them on the bike handy, but here they are right after spooning on new rubber. 21 x 1.85 front, 18 x 2.50 rear with a cush hub. Superlaced.
Ken, I would love to see pics of the wheels on the bike as well as riding impressions. Actually, I'd like to see the others post up pictures of the wheels on their bikes too.......wheel porn!
