Glen Helen DNS,,,sight glass shattered

Brake snake?

I am new, what is a brake snake and what does it do? Please, edgimicate me!!!

OH, an anti brake pedle cloging device. Very interesting, I see how that could benifit.
Thanks Dean,

Gary

When I was a lad and real men rode Triumphs, BSA's and Greeves in the woods, they used light chain for brake snakes. I used to run one on the shifter of my TE400, as the shifter on a right output bike is against the clutch cover and it would collect stuff and jam the shifter.
Norman

I've read oil temps can be as high as 300 at times, so that idea's out the window

its done ..gotta ride. put a 7075-T6 disc in the glass lens spot sealed with 3 bond, used hammer to re-crimp the rear edge, pressed back in and reinstalled retainer bracket. drained remaining oil and put 1.7 liters back in (Maxima Maxum extra 15w-50).. she is good to go.

can't do the those weeknight things ,,, anyway gotta watch the time management as well,,, those are long drives for a ride...
planning to visit Cahuilla soon and amago too as the cooling off time occurs,,,
this weekend is trail training and rock practice, with some suspension tuning/playing. I am waiting for early NOV to send my stuff up to LTR its better for my shedule. I want it plush for the Tecate enduro in early 09

lexan = trouble down the road

The Lexan would probably work for a while, however, with materials all conditions must be considered. Lexan is a brand name for polycarbonate. It's great stuff until it is subjected to organic carbon-based compounds such as motor oil. Motoroil is chocked full of of fossilized organic carbon-based copounds, even most synthetic versions. These compunds attack the material even at room temperature. Add in the extreme heat generation of a modern 4-stroke engine and it just speeds up the process. What we have discovered is that PC under normal temps will take this ind of exposure for only a few months. Submersing it in such a compund and heating it for about 4 hours puts about 4 months worth of "normal" exposure on the material's molecular structure. When the PC parts are subjected to such conditions, the material actuall turns white and brittle and then fails catastrophically.

I am not a materials expert, but have dealt with this in depth through my engineering work. We had a customer that had a partiular vaccine that was reacting with the PC in our vaccinator barrels, turning it white and brittle and causing the barrels to literally crumble. I was even able to duplicate the process using cotton seed and linseed oils. The chemicals that build up oil is being subjected to heat, metals, friction and shearing in a motorcycle engine only speeds up the process. In this case, I wold say that Lexan would work for a while, but whill ultimately fail, or at least turn wite enough that you couldn't read your oil level.

I employed the knowledge of an expert materials engineer who had been working at GE materials for 25 years before enturing out and starting his own business and engineering his own materials. I have recieved most of my materials education from this guy (Dave Saldo, CRC Polymers in Rochester, NY who is also an avid dirt-biker, though he rides a KDX, but I don't hold it against him) and dicovered that almost everything wll break down PC or "Lexan". It's chemical resistance is essentially nil, and subjecting it to these types of conditions will put you in a situation where you will most likely have to replace it every so often.

I think the best scenario would be to replace it with a factory set p and put it back as it was. Then, put that neat little guard over it made out of PC. The PC or Lexan guard will add mondo impact resistance, and keeping it away from direct contact with hot motor oil will definitely keep it from reacting and braking down. The PC will handle ud and dirt just fine, but hot motor oil not so much. The other option you might have is if you can find a sheet of a material called "Xylex" in the corect thickness. You could definitely use that for a sight glass. Xylex is a PC blend. It would have all the impact resistance and toughness of PC, but is chemically impervious to almost everything. The down side is a sheet of it would probably cost as much as a payment on you cool new Husky. CRC polymers has a competitve material to Xylex that costs less than half, but i is only available in its base resin form for injction molding, which is how we use it. It is not available in sheets. Therefore, I think the best bet here, again, would be to put the stock glass back in and put that cool guard over it, making it from PC. It will stay clear and keep your factory glass from breaking and becuase it's not coming into contact with that scorching hot oil, will not be expoed to something that will attack it. Unless you spill gas on it...

Hope this was informational. I don't like to get too technical, but I thought some might be interested in the technical pointsof PC or "Lexan". It's cool stuff as long as the only thing that ever hits it is water and air.


p.s.-my typping suckz...I now.

coffee,
it is held into the "rubber" on metal seal race with some sort of black rtv sealant, with a soft metal (looked like steel) washer then the back plate (dished) with the 4 holes for the oil to flow in and show, then the rear of the race had bare metal which is folded over (crimped) to hold the whole assy together. The assy is simply press fitted into the case from the outside, then the retaining bracket (fork) is installed with one of the clutch cover screws. My goofy rear crimp did not look pretty, bur will and is doing the job and besides only the inside of the motor sees it. The outside looks great, with that alclad al disc.......but dang it I will pull it again later and do a lairpost type deal with some sort of clear cover for added protection its very nice to keep tabs on the oil level even if I do change it very often. R......going riding tomorrow, new sneakers for the dez enduro and a real leak check for the seal job,,, (M12,AC10 Michelins) it finally rained down here !

I think in the east it's mainly to keep the brake from bending in a low side crash or if it hits a stump or anything that doesn't move.

I cut out a piece of 6mm clear vinyl--the same stuff they use to protect front lights from rock damage.

It adhered nicely. Did a 600 mile baja trip, and it has worked out perfect.

If it can protect a glass HID light from 80mph roost, it will protect a sight glass from rock damage.

Just an idea for ya.

Heat from the motor wasnt a problem for the vinyl.

Got mine from Dual-Star. Order the KLR style cut and you have enough for your front light, and the site glass. $6.

I have 2 rides on the sight glass-less machine. and in a fun attempt to get some some French magic (Guillaume,Meo and ISDE win) I glued a French Franc (no Euro, too vanilla) coin on top of the Aluminum disc. Every one told me to do a Mex Peso,,,,,and of course the Italians wanted a Lira. And I have the new sight glass, but I will just bag it in my spares box. My oil gets changed @ every three/4 rides,,or @ 200 miles whichever comes first,,,,I use my clutch alot and always find my oil hazed with carbon and slightly metallic

very nice

dags...how much $ do you want if you make me one?

David

...and me too.

fianlly got around to a foto




that is a 1 French franc coin from BE times (before Euro)

homage to our French Husky pilots