Flat tires...

And Windex!

Soapy water or Windex are best as they evaporate. WD40 and other similar products work well, however have been known to help induce the tyre (yes correct spelling) to slip on the rim

Be careful in areas where logging is going on we had a chain saw file go right thru both walls of the tire. We drove 300 miles for this ride and I didn't think to bring a spare tube or a patch kit. We ended the ride early.

Currently running Bridgestone's X30 both ends. Works and definitely like the stiffer sidewalls for racing and warding off pinch flats.

Checking if spokes are protruding and 2+ layers of a good duct tape are standard.

Tire mounting...after all the money we spend don't cheap out on mounting lube options. Actually it's not that expensive when you consider the good times blown by flats! Find a tire mounting paste or lube, even the cheapest will be better than using alternative fluids.

I found a 1 gallon jug of Ru-glyde mounting lube, less than $15 and may be close to life-time-supply, depending on what you're doing. I pour a little into a small tray and use an old paintbrush to paint beads before setting. Slides into place nicely and conditions rubber to seat on rim. This is written from an off-road perspective, if you're on the street with alloy rims the chemicals in some soaps can pit or etch metal.

Search tire paste, tire mounting lube, etc. and ride on....

I now use cooking oil on a paint brush or PAM [cooking spray] from the kitchen-you can't eat it but killer for tires.

-and have been trying a sliced open section of a bicycle tube as a heavier and wider rim band. Love my mousse tho'

I put it back together last time with an extra heavy tube, rode twice, and the tire moved on the rim again. So last night I pulled it back apart, opened up the hole for the stem to 9.5 mm, replaced the rim lock, and added a second rim tape. Race tomorrow, so we'll see how that works out.

I remove the black rubber band that covers the spoke thimbles and do two or three wraps with duct tape. Then I put baby powder on the tube and inside the tire. Assemble one side then add the tube and rim locks.
The nut on the valve stem is finger tight.

I always leave valve stem nut off rim dun up against cap so if tyre moves doesn't rip stem. Gives it a bit of play each way

re inner tube lock rings. I've found at running low psi like 4 in a trials bike and marking the tyre and rim they don't move but it's the inner tube that walks inside the tyre.

So yes lock to valve cap is correct method in my opinion.
Tyre
Tires
Tyre

I started marking the tire/rim after last time to see if it was moving, and it was. Also didn't like the look of the rim lock much either, so hopefully this cures it.

My KLX250s didn't come with rim locks, and I didn't want to use one because of the balance issues I've had with them on my last DS bike. So I drilled and tapped the rim in the bead area in 3 spots, 60 degrees apart to take a SS M5 button head cap screw, sharpened on the end. I did both sides, offset by 60 degrees, and run them in with some blue loctite so they don't come out. Running 15 psi, I haven't lost a tube yet, and it used to be a big problem.

We installed screws on drag race slicks. Then we painted a straight line from the tire to the rim to spot if the tire turns. We ran only 10lbs of air in the slicks.

So the pointy end grips the tube a bit u mean zomby?

Ahh sorry re-read it grips the tyre bead

Very interesting concept Zomby Woolf. Would not have thought of that approach/solution. Get some good ideas on this Forum.

Yup that's a common hack, works tho.
All depends on how hard your abusing your wheels I suppose.

Still I'm running tubliss now and so far only one issue that was with the first bladder.

The '80's huskies came with 1/8 inch teeth inserted into the bead area of the rims instead of a rim lock. Aprox., 6-8 per side.- no rim lock. worked fine until you got a flat.

Then your dealing with a chewed up bead to re seat.. lol

I ran a 1hr TT scramble on Sunday, with lot's of traction, and the tire didn't move. I'm going to assume it was the rim lock that was the problem.

no, they will not slip, lol...they are tiny rolls pins the whole way around the rim. actually really slick and no rim lock..