TE/TC Finally Joined the 150 Club

Yeah trails are wet out here! This weekend isn't going to help. Agree the bike does a lot better on technical hill climbs than I expected. It seems like it's basically impossible to stall the thing.

So are you running the JD blue needle? What clip position did you move it to?

Bike looks good, I need to get going on my street plate! Been hearing about the EPA giving folks a hard time at the races about Mass residents having off road stickers, have you seen that at all? Ridiculous to me.

I did some Hoot Owl junior endures back in the day. I'd love to get a couple harescrambles in this year just to get my feet wet again, need to get in better shape

Did 15 miles after work yesterday. I raised the blue needle half a clip to #4 and it ran like crap. Did 3 miles and went back to the garage. I then dropped it a full clip to #3, so half a clip leaner than where I was when I posted last week. Huge improvement over the #4 position, ran much cleaner. I'm torn between going back to 3.5 though, because at some points it seemed a little on the lean side. It does still have a "whack the throttle" bog, not sure if that should be air screw or pilot? At any rate it's running well enough now to have fun!

I still feel like the bike doesn't snap like a little 2 stroke should, it's like my car with a big turbo - lots of lag to get it up on the pipe. I might play with the powervalve this weekend and see how that effects things.

I drop the needle and raised the clip . Went by the JD instructions word for word. My Husky dealer is getting fed up with these te 150,s . This dealer built 250 f engines for satellite teams so fe is a great mechanic and he is having trouble sorting these bikes out. A lot of guys bought these bikes from him and none of them got there's running good yet . Dave Hutch, dealership owner thinks it's in the power valve just doesn't operate correctly or the ignition, I might drop my bike off so they can test different things on it .Like I told you earlier it amazing off throttle and mid just runs horrific and full throttle is earth shattering fast. Mid range is most crucial to me. An A rider Kevin Knott told us he gave up on his Te 150and is back on his te 125.I tell them about this site so hopefully they go on and take some ideas from you guys. I just look back at my 16 KTM 200 was jet it to the manual and it ran perfect.

The Mikuni TX blues

haha, theres a cure too!

I dropped it off last Saturday and they are gonna try everything they can to get the bike to run correctly, a lot of people have amazing tech skills and free time to get there 150 running good and for the rest of us it becomes frustrating . All 4 te 150's sold at this shop aren't even close to running good.I will chime in if the problems solved.

Just got back from dealer and my bikes problem is 100 percent power valve . Mechanic could barely operate the moving parts and at times it would totally lock up. He says Husqvarna has to come up with a repair.

Watching for the outcome.

Maybe it was a blessing in disguise, that no one wanted my '16 200 XC-W...

I'm sure a lectron carb wouldn't hurt either after the power valve issue is resolved! Hope you get it sorted out!

I greased my linkage first thing when I got mine. I was having no problems but it seemed a sticking point(I was in there at the time anyway). I had 0 issues in the 20 hours I used it before shouldergeddon. Now I also had no issues with jetting once I set the Lectron. Just rips everywhere with no bog or hesitation. There is video evidence as embarrassing as it is. Ran it around the shop Sunday and it is amazing how well it rips across the band. Unfortunately I rode it after riding a 177 and I really will miss that level of bottom end. Everywhere else the 150 is king.

I also think this is the same power valve system that they have been using on 200 through 300 for years and years. I am no expert certainly on Austrian motors but that is my limited experience.

This is interesting. Can you elaborate on what they think the issue really is? What causes it to stick?

I actually tossed the yellow PV spring in my bike but haven't ridden it yet, should be able to get out tomorrow. (going to be in the 90's!)

That reed block should have never left the factory, I would ride husky about that until some justice is received.

Since I don't have my 150 yet, I haven't looked at the PV system. But I'm wondering how hard it is to find out why it's sticking. So... what's up? Anyone have this figured out?

It's pretty easy. When had mine apart over winter. You just take and clean everything good, to get carbon off. Then you polish everything using an actual buffing wheel and red rouge.do it till looks like chrome. Booster port dials and the powervalve flap (machined surface that rides inside the bushings), till everything moves with ease. On reassembly, I used STP oil treatment instead of lithium grease. You also have to make sure your X Dimension is spot on from factory for flapper height.

That sounds like a very thorough cleaning for a dirty old gunked up PV. So, maybe I misunderstood the problem? It sounded to me like the bikes were coming out of the crate with a sticky mechanism. Was wondering if something was poorly manufactured.

No, I think the issue is that the machined surfaces that slide into the bushings, are tight.
Mine did didn't move as freely as I thought it should. It does now. My guess is that some are hanging up.

Husqvarna techs have been putting in big hours trying to fix this power valve problem and there are new parts being shipped to my Husky dealer and I should know next week if the problems solved.

I wonder if they are going to retrofit every 125/150 ktm/husqvarna from the last two years? They are all the same from what I can see, or were there just a certain parts run that was bad? It is certainly a mixed bag of affected bikes. Some Husky 125/150's and some Ktm 125/150's. Mine has worked great from the first although I cleaned mine up like Darin although I used some super special whoopy doey synthetic synthetic sticky grease.