Here's a fix to stop the airbox popping off the connecter.[610&630] Thanks to poppy on adv. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20582316&postcount=1286
Well .. I couldn't find anyone yet with the same problem I have... Fuel pump didnt start making its BZZ when I tried to fire here up .. after 3-4 hours didnt start up... I have only 1000 KM on it .. 30 min later .. no problem.. Im suspect the kill switch is the problem , Im under warranty so they have to find the problem
Various wires pinched by plastics or bent at extreme angles/crimping. This is my finding. Not sure if others have had this.
Has anyone had a radiator hose blow on their TE or SMS 630? Does anyone carry a full set of spare radiator hoses on long trips? Last month on day 1 of a seven day ride from Bourke to Simpson Desert and back (Australia) the 'y' piece radiator hose on my TE 630 blew up on me. It literally split in half, luckily the split was below the 'Y' section so we were able to use hose clamps, a piece of copper pipe and a spare radiator hose from an XR650 to fashion up a spare.... which got me another 2,800km to Poeppel Corner and back. The four DR650's and XR650 on the ride didn't have a single problem in 3,000 km and didn't the guys let me know about it! I'm thinking I probably should carry a full set of radiator hose spares on long trips.....any thoughts?
I think that's more a stroke of bad luck than anything else. Those types of connections last 10-15 years on cars, and i don't see why bikes would be any different. You could have done some accidental mechanical stress to the part, like getting it squished or jammed, leading to failure or it could've been a manufacture defect (can we have some photo's? or is it long gone?) If you're going to carry a spare set of hoses, you may as well carry a spare set of radiators, a spare starter motor, a spare set of brakes... if you know what i'm getting at.
I´ve done approx. 30.000kms on my 630SM (don´t know the exact mileage as my display got waterlogged). It´s started an increasingly noticeable ticking noise coming out of the cylinder area. Took it to the local Husky workshop and they tell me that it´s likely to be a con needle bearing, so likely to be expensive. The maestro is of the opinion that this is a repair that´s to be expected at this mileage.
Yup... split the hose on the left side at the output of the water pump... split it from clamp to clamp and blew with a loud bang... I put in Zip Ty coolant and added a Trail Tech temp gauge so I can keep an eye on things. The gauge is very small and only around $40...
`Twas the bearing AND the crank. So expensive. But told it´s just to be expected at that mileage. The following is also to be expected at any time: - Crimped wires, - Steering/ignition lock working loose, - Waterlogged instrument console, What have I left out?
Right side screen filter failures. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/check-those-rh-side-oil-screens-fellas.67913/ .
Good catch Bob- that should be listed. Guys- there's a lot of detail on this on the 610/630 thread over on ADV, starting on page 294: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507511&page=294
For the SM 630 owners out there.. It may save you some heartache to order the "tip over sensor bypass plug" from the TE 630 and get that failure point out of your life. http://www.ktm-parts.com/8000A6774.html I've just spent hours helping a member troubleshoot an intermittent stalling problem that started after a drop. Turns out the bike was a converted SM and still had the tip sensor. .
Wonder what it takes to trip that sensor, because in the times I've flopped mine around it's never cut off instantly
Good question. We determined over the weekend that his angle sensor is bad and it started after a parking lot tip over. At first it shut the bike off every 50 miles and finally for good. It ruined a nice trip for him and cost a bunch of money. I'd get rid of it. The bypass plug is a $12 part when they get them back in stock. .
I'm sure you've already double checked the fuses and all ground connections. It looks like the red wire connects to something thru fuse "DF". That red wire also goes over to the start relay and then to the battery. If the red wire shorted to ground at the regulator there could have been huge current flow from the battery thru the start relay and it could be damaged. Since all power to the bike appears to flow thru the start relay that's what I'd be looking at. EDIT: Actually, that's a 15a fuse in the start relay so a short at the regulator should just pop that fuse... Seems like I recall some problems with the harness/ignition switch area? Either way you may want to get a working reg in there before you chase your tail too much. .
