Clutch drag or creep 1974 250WR

Make sure your clutch has the small washer in the picture. It goes between the clutch basket and the clutch hub. Without it I believe the basket rubs excessively on the hub which would cause your clutch to drag when trying to find neutral. I think this was what bultacosd w was referring to in his post.

Mine has a large machined washer plus this small one for a total of 2- I was wondering about the small one, as it looks tight on the splines and is slightly deformed just as this one is.
Thank you very much for the trouble of the photo!

I believe that the extra machine washer between your clutch hub and basket has reduced the necessary clearance that allows the hub to spin free of the basket. After I posted the above picture I installed the main trans. shaft in the my clutch basket and bolted the hub on (with the small washer that's in my photo). I wanted to see how much lateral play existed in the shaft and it turned out to be very little. So the addition of the machine washer in your case is to much in my opinion. All the exploded views of the clutch that I have to look at only show the one small washer thats in my photo.

Try removing the large machine washer. I know its a lot of work but just keep in mind what you'll learn and as a bonus you may also get a smooth working clutch out the effort. How cool would that be?

Keep in mind that the large machine washer in your application may have come from the transmission assembly. Theres suppose to be a washer on the main shaft just the other side of the center case. Without it the main shaft will have more lateral play than the factory engineered into it. Just something to keep in mind.

Let me know what you find.

Thanks! Will do.

To be honest, I'm not sure you want any washer there. I don't remember there being one on my 73. And by looking at the 'Tech Ref and Parts' page on this site, for your bike, there is no washer shown at that spot in the parts layout diagram. http://www.yourhusky.com/files/74_WRs-not_125.pdf

My interpretation of the exploded view combined with many 450 motors I've had open over the years, washer #9 goes between the hub and the basket. That's not to say the clutch probably wouldn't work without it however wear to the area between the hub and basket would probably encounter wear.

Attached is pg.151 from the MK ML Shop Manual. At the bottom of the page reference is made to the " support washer behind the hub".

I've seen that that silly little washer even on the smaller 4spd clutch from the 60's and early 70 pumpkin motors.

Good enough for me. To me the washer in the above picture looks more like a shim that was added later. So far so good with mine not having it. But mine is also a 73 and doesn't call for it. Neither my original or my old Clymer Service Manual show a washer or shim there. But if it's there on yours, it must be for a reason.

Call me and I'll tell you how to adjust it.
714-540-2920
Later George

So I checked my clutch pack overall thickness and it is just above the minimum in the manual. I did find two, rather than one washer between the clutch hub and basket. I will try to attach the photo below. I am hoping that the larger black easier was not intended to go in the shaft inside the cases- the shaft has no lateral play at all with the clutch assembly removed. I assume I should assemble without the second black washer and see what happens?
Thanks to all for your assistance!

i think the large washer is the support washer, put this one onto the main shaft first. Next, fit the clutch basket. The small thrust washer goes on next. push the clutch hub on . lock washer, nut....

Back to just small washer under hub, checked clutch pack thickness which is just above minimum, plates are not warped, set the nuts flush then adjusted them for no runout when turning basket, adjusted clutch center nut to only 3mm play at arm, put 5w20 oil in the tranny, have magura levers, clutch STILL creeps when put into gear. A good rev will not make the bike move when in gear, but it will idle around at 3-4 mph with clutch in, and it is impossible to select neutral when running unless the bike is moving. My next step would be to replace the fibers of unknown origin with OEM plates?
Can anyone guide me to a source for then and also the little stainless lock tabs, which are just about worn out from all the bending? I am at my wit' send with this one....

Tony, sorry to hear you're still having trouble with that clutch. Did you call George at Up-tite he left you an invitation to call a few posts ago? I don't know if you're familiar with George but he lived and breathed Huskys for several decades as a dealer in Orange County Ca.

If I were having clutch problems I couldn't solve I'd call George before doing anything further. Keep us updated.

I spoke to George and he was very helpful. The hub runout has been adjusted, but the dang thing still creeps. I am now looking for OEM fiber plates, as I believe all other variables have been eliminated.

Thanks
S!

Thanks for the update. Dang, I hoped George would have nailed it. At this point I think you're on track by replacing the plates and discs especially since the existing stack is just above the factory recommended minimum.

Pictures really help everyone see what you're seeing. I know its extra work but if you wouldn't mind posting a couple of pictures of you clutch plates and discs laid out like a stack of cards there might be something that someone sees that would remind them of a similar problem and how they fixed it.

Keep up the fight, you'll figure it out. Be grateful its not a problem inside the gear box. Only having to pull the clutch cover is a hell of a lot easier than having to split the cases every time.

I just thought of another variable. The 5 piece clutch pushrod assembly has 2 longer outer pieces that each have a flat end and a round end. I placed the round ends outboard, contacting the cam and adjusting screw. I assume that is correct?

just spoke to George and he confirmed that the round ends face outward.

Thanks to everyone!

Moseley

This mystery is solved! I finally located a pristine clutch from a 250wr to purchase. I removed the apparent Batnett fiber plates from my clutch (green tint in friction material) and replace them with apparent OEM plates (gray tint in friction material). The clutch does not drag or creep, the bike can be pushed backwards with the engine running and clutch in, and neutral can be selected while idling at a standstill.

Thanks to George for the information that led to solving my problem!

Thanks,
Moseley

Glad to here you got it fixed, I have a 85 that does it too. I just got used to it for now tho. One more thing to keep an eye on is that small bushing-seal that the actuator is located with in the case. Some times with age it can get sloppy. Also check and make sure that the arm that the cable is connected to has not been lengthened to far.( this is normal practice for a easier clutch pull) so I here...

Hi Guys
Does anyone have the dimensions of that thrust washer that sits between the basket and the inner hub. Am I correct in assuming it sits on the brass bush to keep the basket and inner hub clear of each other? When I replaced my clutch with out it the inner hub wouldn't rotate freely except with the basket.
Thanks , Mike

There on eBay time to time. It's a hardened steel thin flat thrust washer.