1. Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

Clutch drag or creep 1974 250WR

Discussion in 'Vintage/Left Kickers' started by moseleykmc, Sep 17, 2014.

  1. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Folks, I am trying to eliminate slight clutch drag that prohibits selecting neutral at idle. I have checked and eliminated the below causes:

    Oil viscosity too thick- now have ATF
    Warped plates- have new fiber and steels replacing alloys- the pack thickness is within range
    Worn actuator- the half round is in good shape
    Adjustment- all adjustments are correct, and all 5 rod pieces are present.

    I have not yet checked the release plate movement for level with a feeler gauge yet, am trying to locate new lock tabs before bending the old ones again. The are 3 threads showing in each nut now. I assume that if the plate is not releasing in a level manner that could cause drag?
    I also have the round ends of both outer clutch rods facing outboard- one on the half moon actuator and one on the clutch release plate. Please let me know if the clutch rods are facing wrong and should have the flat ends outboard.
    I did not look at the how far the clutch basket is pressed on the output shaft so as to be level with the bushing sleeve. As there are to slight grooves scratched into the clutch cover from the locking rings, could thee whole assembly be too far outboard as a result?

    Any input would be appreciated!
  2. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    on the bultaco I had years a go it dragged and slipped until a clever Mr mc Hanic showed me how to ensure the plates opened evenly right around the clutch circumference by adjusting the springs a bit. cant do that with the husky but might be worth while to measure the spread right around the clutch and see if there is a significant variation allowing the plates to touch and drag
  3. Crashaholic Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Antelope Valley, CA.
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    73 450WR 6spd motor in a 75 MK frame
    When working on the 5 and 6 speed clutch that uses nuts on the pressure plate springs I've always tightened the nuts flush with the studs so there's no threads showing. This allows for more pressure plate travel than if the nuts are tightened far enough to allow 3 threads to show.

    Also check the cable for defects that would allow it to stretch or the housing to compress.
  4. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks!
  5. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks!
    Thanks!
  6. dartyppyt Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Illinois
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    17 TE 150, 82CR 500
    Other Motorcycles:
    82 125,250,430&500 79 390 83 250
    You can also shim the pressure plate bolts to adjust spring pressure.
    I did that on a 250 so it would start in gear to eliminate drag as well. I started in 1/2 mm shim increments. Too much then clutch will slip? Just thought?
  7. jimspac Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Connecticut
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    82 250WR, 82 430WR, 84 250WR, 85 400
    Other Motorcycles:
    86 400WR, 82 Montesa Cota 349
    When I opened up my 84 250WR engine just to replace the crank seals, I found that a PO had put bushings on 2 of the 5 clutch hub bolts. If you develop the correct spring compression at bottom, it should be used on all
  8. Gord Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    New England
    I've tried all the above on my 73. Takes time to get it perfect. But it has been my experience that you will always have trouble getting in to neutral while sitting still. I just get used to shifting to neutral as I'm rolling to where I want to stop. For some reason, it's easy when it's rolling but hard when it's stopped.
    DaveM likes this.
  9. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    even in neutral there is a force acting on the gears (you've all oiled the chain on the stand in neutral..) so it doesn't take much to put a but constant force on the dogs when you are stopped. while you move, the natural pulsing of the motor loads and unloads the box allowing it to slip out of gear easily.
  10. justintendo klotz super techniplate junkie

    Location:
    mercer, pa/northwest pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 250,86 400,87 430,88 250,95 360
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 kawasaki zrx 1100
    do you still have a magura on it? these huskies really like that longer throw for good, full engagement
  11. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    ive got the stocker and one of Husqvarna parts Phils long levers.. works good.
  12. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks to all. I do have magura levers, but still have the stock actuating lever.
    I will readjust the nuts to be flush, and check that lift is equal.
    Will report back in a few days.
    Thanks!
  13. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Ok ran nuts out towards flush, checked for equal lift with feeler gauges, drag gets worse when hot.
    What next? Replace fibers with OEM?
  14. bultacosd Husqvarna
    C Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    Sportsman 360c
    Other Motorcycles:
    Bultaco Matador
    Hi, if you remove all the clutch plates, does the clutch hub turn freely in the clutch basket? If all is well, you should be able to spin the hub by giving it a flick with your hand. After rebuilding my 360 Sportsman motor I discovered that the clutch hub was stiff when turning by hand. On my sportsman, there is a thick washer that sits in between the hub and the basket and this was the source of extra friction. The reason for this was that I had not pressed the clutch basket on fully. To correct this I removed the clutch hub, I then placed a large washer (inside diameter 25mm) between the hub and the basket, tightened the hub up. This moved the basket onto its bush by about an extra 0.8mm. When I removed this large washer, replaced the small washer, tab and torqued up the nut all was well again.
    On my bultaco I adjust the clutch plate by removing the cover. Put one of the cover screws back into the casing, near the basket. Attach one end of a piece of wire to this screw and point the other end at the outside pressure plate. Rotate the clutch slowly and you will see if the pressure plate runs true. If not, you can adjust the nuts accordingly.
    Sorry if this is stuff you already know.
    Hope you solve your problem.
    Bultacosd
    Petar likes this.
  15. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    adjust the clutch in a bit more?
  16. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Ran the nuts out to one thread, adjusted with feeler gauge for even lift, still drags and gets worse when hot. Does anybody has the thickness of OEM fiber plates? The only thing left to do is to try replacing the fibers. This is very frustrating!
  17. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Just had thought- when told to adjust huge spring nuts with three threads showing, I was assuming that was three threads down inside the nut to the studs. Now I just read one post to turn the nuts until three threads of the stud protrude through the adjusting nuts. Anybody have ant guidance?
    Thanks,
    Moseley
  18. Gord Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    New England
    I would say start with the top of the adjuster nuts being flush with the top of the studs.
    Now, what are you doing with the adjuster on the end of the rods and balls coming from the actuator and through the plate? I think you might want to start making small adjustments there at this point. How many threads are showing on the adjuster, on the outside of the lock nut?
    On my 73, I ended up with the adjuster nuts and studs flush. And I have around 3 threads (approx. 3/16") showing on the adjuster coming through the plate on the outside of the lock nut. I also had good luck with ATF Type F. I have zero drag or creep with the clutch in and in 1st gear. I also have the dog-leg Magura's.
  19. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks, Bultacosd! Will check to see if clutch basket is flush with bushing.
  20. moseleykmc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks, Gord! The center adjuster us set for minimal play at the actuator. Will give your specs a try.
    Moseley