Broken fuel line connector on underside of tank

Bike is a TE310R. I've read of this happening to people, so was super careful when i lifted tank to access the connector for the fuel line. As soon as I pressed the release clips in it snapped away! Not sure what they've made that elbow join out of but it is brittle! Pics below but just wondering if it's a pain to switch out? Think I've seen you can just buy a new elbow section, remove the housing and switch it out. Any one with any experience of this?

Before


After

https://ziptyracing.com
Has a replacement part

This one? https://ziptyracing.com/products/fuel-pump-elbow-oem-8000ah2930-gte-fi-husky
Thanks, it's the right part but don't think it'll fit my assembly...

no, that's the new one for older bikes (hah.)

you want this one for 4-bolt plastic fuel pump flange (xlites, but not TCs):
https://ziptyracing.com/products/husqvarna-gas-tank-elbow
$29.99



or the stock replacement part from husky (upgraded aluminum for the 2014 model year):
8000 H7649
Part #8000H7649
ACOUSTIC CARTRIDGE
$47.25
(confirm the item though, "Acoustic Cartridge" is the wrong name)

the 2013 plastic elbow is #8000H5398 $21.99 (JOINT WITH O-R) which may or may not have been superseded. it can work okay if you're careful.

most other huskys use the 6-bolt aluminum flange fuel pump and need this outlet:

Great stuff as always Trenchcoat! Thank you very much. Wonder if my local shop can get the aluminium part in. Need it back together for next weekend so will see what the quickest option is. Any idea how to fit it??

yep. trim it so the broken hole is flush facing down; insert/screw a threaded brass barbed fitting goopped up with epoxy- & let it dry a day. slip a <12" 1/4"-I.D fuel hose over it with a hose clamp; and on the other end put a 5/16" 8mm 90° quick fuel disconnect (& clamp it).

later, when your new 90° arrives, install it; and then insert a straight quick disconnect into the new fuel line (which replaced the cause of your original problem: the stiff fuel line gets hung up and causes something to break). inspect occasionally at first it to make sure it's not melting or suffering from abrasion... then never worry about breaking anything again.

also: you can use your stock quick disconnects, but they're hard to get off the fuel line. Use hot water to submerge the fuel hose into to get it to soften up. but it's cheaper and easier to buy the $8 fuel injection quick-disconnects.

OTOH: if you actually meant "fit" and not "fix"- it's an even easier 30 second operation...

....just remove the single torx screw holding the retaining plate, pull the broken elbow out, install the new aluminum elbow (I'd lightly use silicone grease on the o-rings; but really, no worries) and reinstall the retaining plate and screw. connect the fuel line. done.

Yep, meant fit! So will go for the 30 second option lol. Great info though, thanks for taking the time. Hopefully I'll be able to get the aluminium one quickly as don't fancy that plastic part again

Oh yeah, clean the area around the fuel elbow before installing. You don't want any of that crap in your injector.

Haha yeah will do fella. Don't worry, I'm not that sloppy!

BTW I'd much rather buy that zipty part (support the indies and it's better designed) but being across the pond, distance is a contributing factor

well, talk to 'em and see how much and how fast they can get it to you.

good luck.

Good point. Let's see what that 'special relationship' can do!

She's all back together. Had to get the husky part in the end as was a tall order getting in time from zipty. Being aluminium I can't see it happening again but the zipty part is definitely better. Yeah so all ready for the track tomorrow. Cheers for the tips TC

Good to hear.

Any pictures? how about do's-and-dont's? Did any of the part numbers turn out to be wrong? How'd the install go?

now that you're the expert, teach us (and the folks that'll be looking at this thread 5 years from now)

To be fair it went just as your post a few above said. i'd echo cleaning up well being one of the most important parts. You definitely don't want any crap getting into the lines there. Once the retaining plate is off the elbow pulls straight out so no problems with that. The part number you posted 8000H7649 was the one I used to order. Much better than the plastic one but the zipty one would make it easier to reinstall the fuel line whilst lowering tank back in to place. I cleaned and greased all my electrical connectors whilst the tank was off too.

I did wonder if it would be easier to unclip the fuel line at the throttle body end but the fuel hose doesn't allow much flex and you don't wanna risk breaking that connector as I think it's part of the whole assembly.

You've mentioned this already TC, the thing that makes getting the tank off trickier than it should be is the inflexible fuel line from the tank to throttle body. It's quite a stiff rubber and the way it's routed makes it tricky to manoeuvre. As you've done, replacing that fuel hose with something more flexible and slightly longer would be the perfect fix.

inflexible fuel line: Yeah, I mentioned this in another thread, a couple of years ago. The fuel line is really a stiff "pipe" made of teflon (to inhibit out-gassing). This pipe is inserted in regular fuel line (for protection, I'm thinking) and then the whole thing has spiral conduit wrapped around it- for abrasion, heat, or who-knows-what.

The problem stems from the conduit and by the stiffness of the "pipe", I believe. Anyways, when trying to remove the tank, the fuel line gets hung-up at various points around the frame. People will continue to pull until it is free (often), or something breaks (semi-rare). With the new aluminum fuel outlets, the next thing to break will be the FI quick-disconnect at the tank end (as my bike did in 2014.

here's a quick write-up: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/mini-and-micro-projects-for-my-310.84259/#post-580688)

I'd *guess* you could avoid 90% of the breakage just by removing the spiral conduit and releasing the lower disconnect. As MotAd mentioned, I went all-out and made myself a new, slightly longer (and flexible) fuel injection line.

MotAd: thanks for the excellent final report.

Hey, anybody in the UK need an updated fuel outlet?
(aka fuel elbow, fuel line quick connect, quick disconnect, connector etc).

Here's a brand-new husky #8000 H7649 for GBP 22 (about $27USD) which is a great price

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-F...800719?hash=item2a7b08cccf:g:MQsAAOSwqu9VK8rb

Fits the TE/TXC xlites (only?) AFAIK. It's in Carnforth, Lancashire, United Kingdom.

See my bike thread for safe way to disconnect fuel line during tank removal

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/restoring-2011-husky-te250.86394/page-2

tl;dr

Basically, the recommendation is to release the fuel line at the throttle body first, as MotAd suggested a few posts above.

And many, many others have come up with the same technique- which reduces the chances of breaking anything even more. However, it's not a perfect solution.

The key thing to remember is if you feel any resistance when lifting the tank, back off and try again- you'll get it.