1. Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

'86 WR400 rebuild

Discussion in 'Vintage Restoration Projects' started by Eurofreak, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. dukkman Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Warwick Queensland Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    85/WR 400,86/WR 240,83/430 is mates
    Other Motorcycles:
    69@71/TS90-76/TS100-72/DKW-78/PE
    I've got a rebuilt 78PE250 in the shed. has done 200mtrs. I woke up a little earlier than your mate. It's the only bike I own that I absolutely hate. Thinking of burning the thing. Piece of sh#t.
  2. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    his is the x model and I quite like riding it (I had one near new and did quite well on it) basically the 81 rm engine with a bigger flywheel, once sorted, they have good poke:thumbsup:
  3. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    So after racing the 400 at Unadilla in the cross country event, my forks need work. They are punishingly harsh. I spoke with Drew Smith at WER. He said to check for bent fork tubes and my springs need replacing. I removed the springs and checked the fork action. Seals work well but there's a bit of stiction, no binding. The axle is slightly bent.
    Some of the harshness may be due to poor alignment, springs are definitely too stiff, maybe coil bind.
    Drew said the softest race tech spring is a .44 and I need a .4 or .42 He can get them custom wound. Anyone know of alternative springs available?
  4. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    you made sure the forks were straight by measuring between them at the seals and just above the axle? pinching the forks in with the front axle can make them very harsh. too much air can also harshen them up. thirdly, make sure the springs are out and the tubes bottomed in the sliders before tightening the damper bolt up. apologies if all this was done, its just a bit of huskiness that is needed to get the plusho happening. I use 15wt oil but im going to mix up some12.5 as i found 10 was a little bit light and15 a tad too heavy.
  5. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    Thanks Suprize- I usually tighten the damper bolt under compression with the spring in. How do you hold the damper rod from turning w/o the spring installed?
    I take that to mean don't squeeze the fork legs in when tightening the axle clamps-understood.
    No air in the forks.
  6. justintendo klotz super techniplate junkie

    Location:
    mercer, pa/northwest pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 250,86 400,87 430,88 250,95 360
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 kawasaki zrx 1100
    you have to tighten the rod spring out, fork compressed completely. i use the factory holding tool, similar to what the husqvarna-parts sells.
    one could be made somewhat easily with a lil weld n grind action.

    these forks just arent known to be overly stiff, unless you are really light. or too much oil...
  7. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    ive never had an issue with the damper rod turning although I see on here it happens occasionally. the bolt only needs to be snugged to centre the damping cone then you can slip the spring in to give the tension if necessary.

    its important to get the forks parallel when putting the front wheel in. I measure the front "fin" on the fork slider just through the wheel under the rim at the highest point and then just above the hub to make sure the forks are parallel as the floating axle arrangement can have you pinch the forks in by doing the axle nut up if the spacers etc aren't just right.
  8. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    I've got a rebuilt 78PE250 in the shed. has done 200mtrs. I woke up a little earlier than your mate. It's the only bike I own that I absolutely hate. Thinking of burning the thing. Piece of sh#t.

    Amazing, the 400 is out having the radiator repaired so he got the PE out for a ride...loves it! a couple of rides on the 400 has just lifted his confidence so that the PE is now a heap of fun!. we tackled a hill that pulled him up big time on the PE last time he tried and he just launched up in 2nd this time....
  9. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    I have the wrong springs in it-they may be CR springs. I had to cut them down about 3"-couldn't get them back together. They may be coil binding.
    i will take the advice and re-tighten the damper rod.
    Still not sure how much impact a slightly bent axle will have. I'll assemble w/o springs with axle and check the action.
    Glad the PE dude got to smile :thumbsup:
  10. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    I had to cut them down about 3"-couldn't get them back together.

    some issues there allright. should be able to slip the fork cap on with a mild pressure and turn.

    some std WR springs should be fine:thinking:
    ajcmbrown and justintendo like this.
  11. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    Well, I'm looking for heavier springs-the rear has a firmer spring and I want to match it.
    I ride too fast... errr I'm too fat for the stock springs.
    Eric The Leg likes this.
  12. justintendo klotz super techniplate junkie

    Location:
    mercer, pa/northwest pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 250,86 400,87 430,88 250,95 360
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 kawasaki zrx 1100
    have you set sag at the rear? is it correct or close? how much do you weigh?
  13. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    never ask and old bike rider how much he weighs:eek: didn't your mother teach you manners?? you should enquire generally "what load capacity does the machine deal with..." :D
    RickyDZero and Eurofreak like this.
  14. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    I set the sag at 100mm/4" I'm 250 lbs. I'm checking the straightness of the triple clamps/tubes and seeing if I can straighten the axle a little.
  15. justintendo klotz super techniplate junkie

    Location:
    mercer, pa/northwest pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 250,86 400,87 430,88 250,95 360
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 kawasaki zrx 1100
    im about 230 geared up, had to crank the stock spring real hard to get sag numbers anywhere near what i needed. a stiffer rear spring with hardly any preload got my sag almost perfect. major difference in handling.
    i have quite a few fork springs out of forks, im using the yellow progressive springs. 480ml of atf and the forks are pretty good for woods, very plush. very controlled when pushed too..
    you have a little earlier forks tho..im surprised you are able to get the 4 inch sag sitting at the front of the tank in an "attack" position..the stock springs are usually way soft.
  16. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    I have a stiffer rear spring installed. I get on the pegs and bounce up and down a few times after setting the initial sag.
    Do you know what the spring rate is for them ? Drew Smith said I should install .42/k and Race tech only has .44's and up.
  17. justintendo klotz super techniplate junkie

    Location:
    mercer, pa/northwest pa
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 250,86 400,87 430,88 250,95 360
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 kawasaki zrx 1100
    sorry, ive never come across anything that says what the different codes or what weights were available.
  18. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    I disassembled the front forks on the 400. I found a bent axle sleeve and straightened it some.
    The fork action was fine with the forks clamping a bar at the axle, found fork stiction.
    Reclamped the front wheel-the forks moved up and down fine without springs. Hope to try it out soon.
  19. Eurofreak Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Western NY
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 TE 510, 1982 CR250, 2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    70's Triumph , Bultaco , Maico, etc
    The front end is better but I need some rocks to pound in to see how much. Added new bars and a rubber mount system for more comfort-definitely nicer.Handles nice around the grass track, the woods were very slick-been raining a lot!
    oldbikedude likes this.
  20. Alistair Frisby Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1986 WR400 LC
    Other Motorcycles:
    Triumph 750 Trident
    Hi guys, can i get your guidance on this (trivial?) question. I am trying to work out which of the rubber/screw mounts (attaching the radiators to the frame) go where. I understand there are three slightly different lengths (probably just thicker rubber middle section). Does the longest one attach the bottom of the radiator, shorter ones on the middle and top connection points? I said it was trivial - welcome your guidance so i dont have to undo and relocate them later. Thanks all.