510 service facts needed

just picked up a sweet 84 510 in pretty orig condition.

what oil does it need?
what spark plug is recommended"
front fork oil? best wt?
any other suggestions?

it looks like a team bike that was sold off and the next owner did pretty much road kms with it. motor seems ok, excellent compression (bruised foot arch already) starts first kick when you get it right and seems pretty snappy on the throttle (haven't ridden it yet).

any suggestions and tips will be appreciated (I know there are posts back there but be ideal to get some directions to them. cheers and thanx

dont these have the two piece valves that need upgraded to solid versions? nice looking bike. love the dual exhaust on these

Need 510 pics ?
http://www.leguidevert.com/_V6/viewtopic.php?id=81834
http://www.leguidevert.com/_V6/viewtopic.php?id=229819
Café Husky 510 thread !
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/special-parts-desert-race-510.4201/
510 LC
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/510-te-84-gustavsson-4.9271/

You can upgrade your 510 with a 510 TELC bottom end which has oil connection
to back of the rod, and 610 TE ducati ignition and black coil.

This will be a trailer queen so I don't need anything other than an owners manual! (I hope).. whats the best oil to run in them? what is the std plug?

I will go thru the top two threads of Michels and review!

thanx for all the guff... I love the maroon tank Gustafson bikes.....if I decide to make a rider out of this I might box up the white plastics and go with that color scheme...looks so good

Very few originals in that condition, good thing to leave it as a trailer queen. Value. Lovely machines.
Service the oil strainer on barrel regularly and replace with more modern all steel unit, the old plastic caged ones conk out.
Service K&N airfilter and never use compressed air to dry them. It blows big holes in the cotton pleating.
Valve lash 0,1mm inlet and 0,15mm outlet. You only have to worry about the 2piece valves if you are going to run the daylights out of it.
Replace the RAL reed valve, very important.
Replace crank seal behind flywheel.
If ever you want to turn it into a serious runner replace those super quiet and restrictive silencers with something better, big difference.

More power your joking....who would ... never mind, im a 250 riding wimp that's just mastering a 400!

thanks for that info.

I see the only bolt that appears to have been regularly "spannered" is the oil filter bolt so its seen some attention. where do you get steel ones? is there a later model replacement unit from the LC's?

my motor is a wo11 frame numbered unit which the manual says is the later model valves so im not sure what's what there.

I haven't looked under the seat but the last owner gave me 2 new foam air filters that look suspiciously like the one on my wr 400 (says 510) so I will have a peep and see what in there.

I know ol mate in 84 ran one hard for two years without any issues so I suspect this will be ok as well.

im starting a house build (and big shed) so it will be back burnered till all that's done then I will give it a serious lookover and set it up for some careful rides.

What brand oil do you use?

Check the cam chain tension. Start with a new cam chain.
Use a cam chain link with a circlip.
I use 5w50 oil.
20 or 30 in front fork.

I have just received the expanded mesh to make new barrel oil filters - as they have gone out of production...

Andy Elliott

excellent news to all above. thanks for the info, I plan to gather as much of this stuff in my head then take the bike to Mr Mc Hanic and do a valve clearance check and cam tension etc (may replace chain as its cheap) prob inspect the valve gear and do a full service.
It has enormous compression. im 82kgs (not a man mountain) but it stops my feeble kicking with contempt! (it said "is that all you've got?? Ha!")

I will get some go pro happening when I ride it for all to see a terrified man hanging on for grim death

took it for a quick spin up the road and found it running quite rich of the throttle and in the first part of the range to half throttle. Spent 20 mins and pulled the seat and tank and slide out of the carb and dropped the needle 1 clip.

This gave a much better idle and response with the blubber gone but it was too dark to ride it so I will test it today.

Carb slide is badly worn and I noted that screwing in the fuel mix screw did little till it bottomed out then a change started to happen so I suspect air and or fuel leaking everywhere in the carb. poor sealing.

Probably need a new carb and Mr Lectron has filled me in on the virtues of his magical product but I will be sitting on it for a while so I will back burner it for the mo.

The air filter was a k&N paper one but the air box has shrunk a bit and it has been touching the filter and has rubbed a hole in it. can I still get those k&N type?

there is no baffle mesh in the airbox is this an issue?

cheers and thanks for your advice

Pez up here in sunny Qld has a 510.
Surprised he hasn't commented.

I got some feedback on ozvmx from him. did you check out my youtube channel" "riders in the scrub"?

simple question, how do you adjust the cam chain tension?

Download the engine workshop manual from the tech section..tells you all you ned to know..

righteo..good idea, I only saw the parts manual.

The water cooled versions are self adjusting - spring loaded. Not sure about the air cooled versions.

appears to be simple, undo lock nut, push in adjusting rod till tight then do up locknut...