2011 te 310 starting problem when hot

my bike (TE510 2009) had the same problem with the difficult to start when hot and was trying to find a different fault the bike had with not even turning over, after some probing i found the Starter really to be Kaaput. I also went round all of the connections from the front the one behind the light which connects to the starter switch, i used a silicone electrical grease on all the contacts and also cleaned them while i was at it, removed the starter and cleaned and greased all the heavy duty terminals. after reading the suggestion that the starter gears might be binding once they heat up i tried to apply a little downward pressure on the back end of the starter as i was tightening the bolts (not sure if this would make any real difference) but still gave it a go. well so far so good and i had no problems starting it on Sunday, i did have to use the de compression lever once or twice but it started much better on the whole, so i now wonder if it was the really or the starter bolt up or even the cleaning and greasing of the terminals but the bike defo starts much better hot or cold. ps i have always had real problems starting it with the kick start, it will eventually kick start but it takes a good few kicks, it will now start straight away from the button. good times :~)

Yes jason Describes it correctly.

The Keihin carbed bikes had a "hot start" knob (red) on the carb, and a decomp lever near the clutch.
The 08-10 efi'd bikes had a "air bypass knob" which works "like a choke" and a decomp lever near the clutch.
The Xlite 11/12 te's have a "air bypass"/cold start lever (like a choke) near the clutch

Not related to the starter problems but related to starting the bike hot- I found a 11TE310 that had the Choke lever adjusted without slack and was opening that circuit slightly- this effected the idle, and could effect hot starting the bike. (much improved results after being adjusted properly). Just thought I'd mention that the lever's cable should be adjusted with some slack (like 2-3mm) to be safe. To be clear - that bike has not yet showed any problems realated to this thread (starter binding)/ I just offer this as an FYI.

...and it's variable, unlike a choke knob that's either all "on" or all "off". So, if the rev's go too high when I start her up in the morning, I just back off a little on that lil red lever. Revs drop too much? Feed a little back in! Sorry for the hijack, I just think it's pretty cool.

I got the same problem with my te310 from 2012. My dealer replaced the starter because it was burned up. I spoke to him about the issue of the gears not being lined up and he said he never heard of such a problem.
When replaced, it was a bit better and good for a couple of rides but last sunday the starter was burned again.
Gonna call him as soon as the shop opens ... .

If anyone knows what needs to be replaced exactly ,please let me know.

OK, I changed the ring gear (8000 A7073) and now it's working like new!!

My bike had 75h before the problems started.

To change the ring gear:
- put the bike on the right side and remove the left cover
- unscrew the nut with an impact wrench and take out the washer
- get a puller and remove the flywheel INCLUDING the whole freewheel with the retainer
(don't take it apart, you should leave it like that)
- now use a magnetic tool to take out the needle bearing and simultaniously pull the ring gear out

When you put it together with the new ring gear, ungrease the shaft and the flywheel and put the flywhell on with Loctite. Tighten the nut of the flywheel to 75 Nm.

The whole procedure takes you 20 min and you don't have to drain the oil, take away the exhaust etc.

I was surprised how easy it was.

Any news about this issue, will the change the ring gear solve the propblem?

Just adding to the list.
I am a recent owner (purchased in December) of a 2010 TE250.
Starts OK cold.
Will not start with E-start after ridden and warmed up. (not talking about an over heated conditions)
Of course the previous owner never offered up this information.
It will start readily if the E-start is helped with a kick of the start lever at the same time.
Doesn't start too easily just with the kick.
No I haven't done any troubleshooting yet other than reading post after post by persons with the same problem and not seeing any posts indicating a confirmed reason for such behavior or a fix.
Thanks
Carl
Kansas City MO

I have owned a TE 310 2011, a TE 310 2014 and a TXC 310 2014 (all bought new). They have all had this problem. First thing you have to do is checking the valves. My 2011 and the TE 2014 both had one exhaust valve totally out of specs (to tight). They both went better but the problem wasnt solved. It went from difficult to start to less difficult. When really warmed up none of them would start with the e-start. After waitng 2-3 minutes they fired up at once. Could be acceptable at practise but during competitions I went crazy.

The 2011 went even better after installing a JD tuner but still I had to fight with this issue. The 2014 was even worse and made me loose 5-6 mins at every race (many places). Last year I bought a Lithium battery with higher start amps. Except for the valves this has been the problem all the time. At least for me. The original battery is just not strong enough. Now it starts at once, even with clutch and gear. I have not had one single problem since then. On the plus side you will earn more than a kg in weight.

Do I need to say what I think of x-lite except for the hot starting issue? Would ride them for the rest of my life if Husky IT didnt went up in smoke. I still have the TE 2014 and the TXC. Some day they will both be out of rescue. What Ill ride then is written in the stars. The only thing I know is that it will not be an Austrian bike.

Just an FY. I checked my valves today. Right at spec with the left exhaust being lightly looser.
Called Halls today and they pretty much echoed the information here.
Suppose I need to order this gear being talked about?

Hi new member here. I picked up a 2013 310R with only 2200 miles and having same starting issue when the bike is hot . New battery and charging system is working fine . Haven't replaced anything yet . If you use the kick starter it starts first kick . The info I have read saved me some money . glad I didn't replace the starter .

Replace the rind gear and run the left exhaust valve about .001" tight.
Use a good battery.

These starters are a bit under designed.

I usually kick start mine to save the E-start for trail relights.