Hello all. It seems like Ive done everything humanly possible and still no charging voltage. Im not going to bore you with my misfortune so here is an update: replaced the Starter Relay, cleaned all of the negative and ground wires including the two ground wires that were bolted onto the starter/engine which were quite dirty. Tested the stator one more time everything looks good. The only thing I have not tried is making a lead to test the negative wire malfunction (bad connection in the negative lead from RR to battery (-). I am not very keen on doing this but will try one more time. I am still getting that fault according to the electrosport manual. The only other lead I have is what looks like a slightly melted yellow wire at the VR connector. It has left some copper wire exposed inside the connector. I suppose my question is, how do I remove these wires from the connector so I can check them thoroughly???
Do you show charging on the red wire coming out of the vr? While its running and all connected? Test on the vr side of the connection. Then test other side of connection. You said you have 24 vac from all 3 yellow wires to vr, test both sides of connection, if nothing from the vr red wire the vr is bad.
No charging voltage on the red wire with VR unplugged. Have not checked with bike running and VR connected that is a good idea though. Will tell me exactly if there is correct DC output going to the battery. I have found a problem with the VR connector however. I need to take it off and thoroughly inspect each individual wire...anybody know how to do this?
That 20 amp fuse on the starter relay is the main fuse and it wont even crank over if its bad. Yes you need to check for 13-15 volts on the red wire coming out of the vr while its running and of coarse it needs to be connected.
Just got my bike out of storage, it fired right up, rode around the yard a few minutes then shut it off. Tried to start it again and the battery is too weak. Checked the charging system and found I only have 6 vac coming from the stator. It would show 13 volts at idle and drop when I gave it throttle.
6 vac is way under the 24 approx. it should be. If your bike was running/charging fine before the winter I don't see what could be the issue. Welcome to my world, gotta start troubleshooting man. I would suggest checking the resistance on the stator connectors under the gas tank. Also check the vac of each yellow wire at the VR they should be consistent.
I did notice it was cranking over slower than usual last fall, I thought it would need a new battery but it held charge for 3 months. I checked it first and is still good, the original yuasa from 2011. Yes I allready tested everything, stator went bad. Gonna replace it tomorrow. I have a new stator from when the crank sensor went bad, just have to seperate the wiring and splice it in.
It's definitely not charging. You should have roughly 24 vac coming out of each yellow wire at the VR connector. Under the gas tank connectors u need between .3 and .6 ohms from all wires. The two wire connector needs to have about 95 ohms. If that's good ur stator is most likely OK. Refer to the maintenance manual under charging system for more information (if you have it).
There are two connectors coming from the stator. They are not separate you will see them once you get the tank off. I don't know what the two wire connector is called but it has red and green/blue wires.
Trust me troubleshooting and trying to find the issue can be a huge head ache. If you don't feel comfortable doing it bring it to a dealer. If you test the stator and find it to be bad, the replacement procedure is fairly straight forward but can be tricky getting the cover back on smoothly. Sorry about your predicament. Good luck and let us know what the stator tests produce.
The 2 wire connector is for the crank sensor, it and the stator come together, they both are in the wiring loom. I had a crank sensor go bad and replaced both at that time. I have the old sensor amd stator assembly, instead of buying new again Im going to cut the loom apart and just replace the stator. It actually passed the ohm and ground tests but only put out 6 volt on each yellow wire and dropped to 0 when its revved up.
That's very strange it would do that. Unless it's a wire that has been compromised along the way to the VR it must be the stator. Remember to have the VR off when your doing the yellow wire vac test. And the red meter lead attanched to one yellow wire and black lead grounded to another. Otherwise good luck.
Got the stator in and now charging over 14 volts at idle and with vr unplugged showing 24-25 volts on each wire, before it was only showing around 6 volts on each wire. The old stator looks fine not burned or any thing wrong that you can see. It passed the ohm and ground test but not the output test.
Good stuff thanks for the info. I could some how still have a stator issue even though all tests are a pass. I'm not very keen on spending almost 500 for a new stator so I will check red wire out put with the bike running and VR attached. After that I will take it to a professional it's almost beyond me at this point.
Its very simple charging system. Stator to voltage regulator thru starter solonoid to battery. Just find where your losing the charge.
I tested the red VR with bike running and everything attached. High 12's at idle. Over 13 when I Rev. However these or not extremely accurate results. It showed higher results with my black lead on the blue VR wire. It dramatically decreased if my black lead was on the battery negative...this could be a sign of current loss. My multimeter isn't the best and it was hard keeping the lead on metal. I could be losing voltage at the connector. I am for sure losing current from red wire to battery. I tried to do the "current loss at battery" test as specified in the maintenance manual but it showed zero. Not sure if I'm doing it correctly.
So what has changed between the time you were seeing 11.5v with the bike running and now that you're seeing 13+ volts? It sounds like your bike is charging fine. If you're seeing a variance in voltage based on where you ground the meter (blue wire vs. battery), I'd run a nice heavy ground wire between the two and that should solve that. .
