2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by taps, Dec 16, 2016.
does that make you a hoarder
hey 95 shrouds dont exactly grow on trees do they?
no and when you pick the "tree" remember to price them to match the availability
personally I am a hoarder
I'm invested in my 95 only because you'll get f-all for them if l was to sell in OZ...and personally, l still think the motor creams even the modern day 300's...maybe l'm bias
yes...great motor, and i have the suspension set up pretty damn close for me. thanks to drew at WER!
You don't get much for these bikes elsewhere in the world either. I only ended up with my 360 because it was so cheap. I bought it as a spare bike I could loan to friends, but I ended up liking it enough that I when I decided I didn't need spare bikes for friends, I sold my KTM. I'm probably slower on the 360, but it makes a terribly fun woods bike.
Had a productive evening. Radiators have 4 of their 6 mounts permanently installed. Main tank support is tacked in place. Voltage regulator has been moved from where I had planned to put it in front of the the head tube to the side of the frame. Horn has been mounted. Made a pair of 1/4" bar risers. Mounted CDI,and figured out where I can put the coil. I took pics, but they will go up tomorrow. It is 3:15am, and I'm tired.
As promised, pics!
This is the best I can come up with for the coil and cdi mounting. No room for the coil in the original spot with the radiator and tank mounts. The tank mount is just sitting on the tube in this pic. I apparently didn't take a pic after tacking.
This is my solution for a rubber at the rear of the tank. It is a tank mount rubber from the later bikes. I drilled and tapped a hole in line with the backbone and used a fender washer under the rubber. Seems to put things in a pretty good spot. The rubber from the '94 is too thick.
everything is finding a place now that the radiators are on. The horn is threaded into the old hole for the factory voltage regulator. I mounted the reg/rectifier on the opposite side of the frame by drilling/tapping two holes. Of course they are positioned where they hit the tube inside the gusset portion of the frame.
Things are cozy, but everything fits. I'm amazed I was able to use all the factory style hoses. I don't have the hose/nipple from the rad filler neck on in this pic, but it has plenty of room to clear the frame. I'm also happy that I'm able to remove the radiator cap without taking the tank off. Wasn't sure how all that was going to work out when I started.
And last, the 1/4" risers. I don't remember what bend bars I'm running, but at full lock i had less than 1/16" between the end of the handguard mounting bolts and the tank after grinding off the excess thread. 1/4" was what would work with the original bolts so that is what I made at 2am. I have a pic, but I can only do 4 in a post. They are aluminum, round, and have a hole in the middle. That is about all. I'm sure you can visualize something close.
Don't they have steering stops on the older bikes? Lookin good mate!
Steering stops, yes. Adjustable stops, no. Apparently they have them on the 2012 (per the pic stolen from ebay), but when exactly they started, no idea. I suppose I should clarify though that it is the inner bracket for the handguard. I have my bars cut down to 29.5" for a little extra room in tight woods. Were they standard width, the guards would be further out, and I would not have had any clearance issues.
All I have is the welded tab stop. 1994 didn't get the sweet adjustable ones like this:
And while I'm posting pics, the spacers:
Bike is done. The final push took a bit, but I rode it around the yard earlier today. I'll eventually post info about what I ran into at the end, but I'm tired at the moment. I'll be doing a shakedown run Saturday morning if the national Forest trails are open, and I leave for big bend ranch state park a week from today (Thursday).
Good effort taps, now the main thing is was it all worth it?
Eh, sure? I have hoses I can buy replacements for. I have radiators I can replace for $100. Complete plastics for $150ish. Also plastics that are made by several companies so I'm not dependent on DC plastics. I can access my sparkplug without removing the tank. Way more modern feel to the ergos. Bike looks much more modern too. I also had a good time figuring everything out.
Trying to do the work with a deadline and only being able to work at night for the most part, that was not fun. You have to make the mounts for almost every attaching point, and the stuff touches in lots of places.
The job would be less complicated with a stock tank and no radiator guards, but I wanted the fuel capacity and didn't want to buy radiators too often (even if they are cheap.)
Am I happy with the result? Yes. Would I recommend someone else do the same? No -- unless they just want to.
I'm trying to think back to what I encountered as I finished up...
This is the tank/seat hold down I came up with. This is actually round 2 with the top piece of aluminum above the rubber made as one piece instead of the two piece setup I used while working out the spacing. The seat pin should probably be about 1/8-1/4" further forward. The seat takes some work to install, but it definitely stays put. I located the mounting boss by sighting through the tank hole, and I made it so the bolt could be fully tightened and slightly compress the rubber hold down. And yes, that is the same rubber from the other tank mounts. I ended up having to go back to the thicker '94 tank rubber at the rear of the tank for the tank to fit the best.
Behind the rubber in the pic below is a 3.5" extension tube I made from some 7/8" aluminum bar stock. This allowed sit fully on the mounts. Of course the lowest clamp is perfectly inline with the support for the rad guards. Left side cleared everything fine because the tank has a recess at that point. Right side does not. The clamps have to be clocked just so, and the tank still pushes the right hose forward a touch. The rubber should keep the clamp from vibrating against the tank.
I also swapped out the throttle assy and cable. That turned into a huge cluster, but after modifying everything in the assy, it works nicely. It is a quicker throttle which I will either get used to or I'll spend a lot of time watching my bike fly out from underneath me. Mounted the tank bag and did final touches on the wiring. Besides sliming the tires, I can't think of anything else I need to do before I leave.
Random: Wolfman enduro tank bag is perfect size for two 1L fuel cans.
And I still have not painted the pipe. Considering I finished this morning at 5am, I'm okay with an ugly pipe.
Shakedown run saw no major mishaps. Only thing I encountered was the rear tire removing the sticker on the inside of the silencer when the suspension was fully compressed. I added 1/4" spacer to move it further towards the side panel, and all is good. I was initially concerned about whether I would like the quicker throttle, but after 2 hours on the bike in slippery clay and sand, I do like it. I can go a gear high to make it less twitchy or run in a "normal" gear if I want it to have more snap. Ergos are good, and I'm happy.
Thanks to everyone who helped in this little adventure!
I used a fast action trials throttle, to me mine was more restrained, tired the slow action one but that took ages to wind up.
P.s. just edited post to actually read like I ment it too.
That is basically why I changed in the first place. The thing was almost a bit boring with the stocker.