2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by taps, Dec 16, 2016.
Yeah that parts fiche drawing is shit. I'll post up pics of my 10 wr300 genuine parts fiche manual.
That would be cool :-)
Give us half an hour. I thort ther was only the tank bolt n 2 rubber wheel type locators but could be wrong. Maybe a rubber rest on frame backbone too
No rush. I'm happy with info at whatever speed it shows up. I have a few hours before I'm free to play in the garage anyway. I'll likely mess with the subframe tonight since that showed up today.
Well il be damned that's the official parts fiche picture! It's the only pic in the whole thing that isn't an exact technical/copy type drawing of the part?!! Wtf.
Anyway my tank is off my 165 n they have the 2 locating pins for rear of tank juicy talkin bout as newer frame with twin spars further up frame. Also has front mount so solid fit. The 300s mount is centre of tank so no rear mounts jus a rubber pad/grip along backbone at rear of tank to keep it off frame n the 2 rubber wheels which keeps it snug. Can't be arsed pullin tank off sorry mate there'll be a pic on here sum where of tank set up/attachment
I retract the above statement too. Sum of the other fiche fotos are lackin detail too!
Pic of 125 frame/tank set up, 300 frame fiche pic(doesn't even show mount post!) & my little black apprentice
Thanks for all the pics and info. I have saved about 20 photos with the various tank mounts used. Still have yet to see the rubber you and I think should be at rear of tank. I'll find something to use back there. If not a husky part, I know I can use the YZ tank rubbers, and that should be easily enough found.
Yeh from memory it's a ribbed elongated circle rubber bit. Like a gripper seat cover type design
So that was unexpected. I can either raise the lower mounting points, lower the upper, or pull the subframe into place. I'm not a huge fan of straining the subframe before I ever put my weight on the bike. Then again, this subframe may be tweaked slightly from who knows what. Bend it past the needed position and hope it comes to rest at the proper spot? It wouldn't be under strain anymore, but it would be...bent. Bend aluminum enough times and bad things happen.
If I want to lower the top mounting point, I can mark the location by using the subframe as a template, drill a hole, and then make the same tube to slide through the frame as was used originally. This will lower the front of the subframe (and the fuel tank) approximately an inch from where it would be if I used the factory upper mount. A little less overall height is never a bad thing, but I wonder if I'll have necessary room for radiators if I drop the subframe. That would be unfortunate. It is unlikely the designers decided to use the lower subframe mounting point as the spot around which to pivot the entire plastic/seat/frame, but who knows.
I can make two "extensions" for the lower mounting points from aluminum with c-c of 1.5" and run the factory upper mounting point. This positioning lets the boot mate with the carb without any issue and the exhaust mounting points are in the correct spot. Exhaust also clears the filter housing. Considering the subframe would be pivoting around the top mounting point were it to move, I don't think I would have much issue with the extensions trying to pivot under load. This is not ideal.
I can also make new lower mounts welded to the main frame and use the stock upper location. This might be most difficult to make look decent, but once done, it would look less gimmicky than the extensions.
Or I bend the subframe to fit. This was initially the least desirable option, but I wonder if it might be the best solution. I am measuring approximately 1/4-3/8" difference in hole to hole measurements from side to side. If it is already bent, it seems stupid to modify the mainframe to fit. If it isn't bent, I wonder how much weaker it will be after bending. Surely Husky engineers foresaw the subframe getting tweaked. I can come close to lining up the holes without using anything other than my hands.
I'll look at pics of some new frames and see if I can tell if the location of any mounting points changed.
Did a little experiment, and using the top mounting point with either extensions or fabricated mounts for the lower points is the way to go. All other options push the intake boot against the spring. I'm thinking fabricated mounts. Of course once I cut the factory ones off, it is serious fab time or the ride doesn't happen. I have steel that is the same thickness as the current mounts, but the new mounts will also be 1.25" further from the frame. I may grab something a touch thicker and then brace them with a piece of round stock between them to resist bending.
For those that are wondering why I'm not welding an extension onto the subframe -- I don't want to change the stuff bolted to the bike. Just in case something ever happens to the subframe, I'd like an off the shelf replacement. If something ever happens to the frame, I'd need to get a new title/plates/etc anyway.
I start slicing and welding tomorrow. I made a template for the left side tabs.
I'm still debating whether I should step up the thickness for these items. The originals had a few strengthening bends, and they were much shorter. Thicker would be safer and require less gusseting. We'll see what I'm thinking in the morning.
Looking good, I was thinking of my tank of 360 but yeah yours is differently set up. Sorry.
Rubber that goes inbetween the tank and frame sounds like the roll Matt from a car or top of tool vaccinate is what your after.
As for frame mounts I would go 12 guage minimum, if your worried about strength your idea of a tube spacer in the gap should be fine, or box it in up the top and bottom.
Nice amount of progress. Keep it up.
No prob on the tank mount. I think I have that mildly figured out. I'll tackle that tomorrow evening since some of my plastics will be showing up, and I'll be able to see where it needs to be placed. I found some YZ mounts on eBay. One fits over a square piece of tubing and gives me an option near the original tank bolt, and there are a couple that fit on round tube. I am glad I ended up at my uncle's house yesterday and saw all the mounts while he as working on his YZ. Total for mounts shipped from eBay: <$10
I also ordered another of the round rubber tank mounts - a pair actually. Maybe they are onto something showing those as the same part number for the tank hold down. It fits the hole perfectly. So yes, I plan!
On the bracket front, I have some 1/8" that looks to be wide enough to fit the left bracket. I figure the tube would work well because I could machine a step on each side and then have the center act as my spacer. Easy access for welding on the outside of the bracket and also should make it easy to wash dirt and whatnot from between the brackets. Last thing I want to do is make a pocket for crud to collect in
Hey jus curious why u went the 11 rad shrouds? Were the 10,12 or 13s available?
I was able to get a deal on 3 of the panels for the 11 from a shop that apparently got stuck with them. I never anticipated the last would be backordered, and I didn't check the other years. I figure I can keep the order happening and buy some aftermarket ones for this trip if it has not shipped by jan 9th or so. Never hurts to have spare plastic, and aftermarket is cheap.
I worked on the subframe today, and it is mostly finished. I need to weld about another inch, but that will have to wait until I can pick up more wire this evening. The welds are hideous, but I believe they will get the job done. I weld so seldom that my first welds on any project suck, but this one doesn't have much welding -- so they all suck! The pair of plates in each bracket is tied together so they straddle the tube, and so long as the tube doesn't fail and the bracket doesn't slide to the side, all will be good.
Punchline: Subframe is on!
What you using to weld with MIG? Practice on scrap before you do any welds I'm far from expert but would prefer a well penetrated joint.
#1 clean both surfaces very well
#2 cut the wire before starting any weld that helps getting the weld to bite and start arcing.
#3 wire speed is key if the wire melts towards your tip it's too slow of your weld is keloidial then too fast.
But as long as your happy that's fine.
But if your using arc your on your own.
It is mig, and it is what it is. I'm betting nothing lets go. :-)
This is the left side before being pressed together. The round piece is a press fit into the 1/2" holes. It acts as a spacer and ties the two plates together. Once assembled, the tube is welded into place from the outside. A threaded boss is welded to the back of the inside plate for the factory bolt to attach the subframe.
Here is crappy weld #1, but after looking around elsewhere on the frame, it appears I am upholding their high standards! I threw some quick paint on it so it doesn't rust up on me while I'm doing everything else. I'll likely pull the bike back down after the trip and do a proper paint job on it. Maybe not. We'll see.
Here is crappy weld #2. It is actually several short welds because I didn't want to get too much heat in one area. I also smacked it with a grinder to knock of some splatter from the one spot that I simply could not get the frame as clean as it needed to be.
So there we go.
BTW, my favorite welding saying: Just because you own a welder does not mean you are a weldor.
BTW, I feel like I'm about to get a "Holy crap, you are going to die!" after posting the welds.
tack the corners up where you want the part to be, then weld in one pass. stopping and starting leads to weaker welds. pulling the weld has less penetration while pushing is a bit more. duty cycle is overlooked sometimes as well, often the welder needs to sit for a minute.
have you ever practiced with basic fillet or butt joints, welding then cutting apart to check penetration?did you lay the bike on its side to make the weld easier after tacking?