1983 XC500

LOL

In Canada many import the old jap cars, all RHD and drive them here as is.
I think its unsafe but its allowed and very awkward as heck to me.
When i was an auto tech, i had many to work on and test drive.

500 XC awesomeness all the way
(sorry to derail)

1 last comment on mustangs down under...there is at any time in excess of 100 pre 72 mustangs for sale in Oz. if you add up ebay, just cars and uniques cars there is heaps. when the dollar was high and the US in financial meltdown, they were imported in droves....they are now being sold back at a gentle rate...as the exchange has reversed...

How to get the bearings off the drive side pin without taking the crank apart? I want to change the seal. Also what's with the weird rub marks on the top of the case?

Rock hard fuel hoses and vibration.

I like these with 2 bolts and a simple puller.

Those bearings typically stay in the case!

Yes , you may have an issue now with the case bores. Those are a heat shrinked bores , in other words husky has bored these to shrink around the bearing and are not a pressed fitted. Has
a lot to due with how soft and light magnesium is. Did you heat the cases to pull this apart ?? They will also/mostly just fall out with heated to 400 degrees. Also yu install by heating the cases

From a Tech write up " a trypical bore vs bearing size has really only 15% metal to metal
contact " that was reduced summary but that was shocking to me when I read that.
So we need as much metal left as possible. So if you pull any of that .001 to .003 overboard metal away those bearings may not be tight.

Now I must point out husky has steel inserts around the main bores, it their but just behind is the soft mag metal outer casing. Take a magnet and you will see. So with do have steel to steel fit but with a very expansive mag outer case.


Sorry the geek or gear head part come out me sometimes

That's my theory too!

I used my homemade tool to drive the shaft out. No heat. But it was tough.

Once the bearings are off the pin and the cases are cleaned and painted, I'll heat and drop the bearings into the cases. I think they are just stuck to the pin. But the bearings only have 9 bearings in the cage that I can see. The replacement case half also has a 9 ball bearing, but the original broken case has 14 balls? I think. So the original cases have 2 bearings on the left with 9 balls and one bearing on the right with 14 balls. I have read in other post here that 14 is the correct number of balls for the crank bearings. Please correct me if I am wrong. Chris

Well you need to look for a ZKL bearing with 28 balls 3205 C3 Max capacity style , or get a Skf now has 26 balls. MRC has a 5205 bearing that is 26 ball its really a sub company for SKF

I believe you are going to
have to long look at those bores - I finding case after case destroyed by driving out bearing by pressing or by force. Husky has such
a great design with this shrink fit bearings. Now maybe they are find, but just for all your time and effort have some one check them with
a dial bore gauge etc.

You also need a special tool - to slowly press/pull case together. Some are after market , and one can be found on Ebay. The crank is slowly pulled in each side of case. This being the crank being pulled through the bearings. Left side first. then ignition side

When I separated the centercases on the 80 250CR for a friend we saw the bearing stay on the stub end and the knurled steel sleeve the bearing was shrunk into ripped out of the right centercase and still on the bearing, That was a challenge to repair between me calculating the interference fit needed between icing the bearing and heating the steel repair sleeve I made on my toy lathe in my shop, So yes, heat should be used when removing bearings from the case.30 minutes at a 250°soak should suffix. I however frown on torch heating. That is why I took over the family gas grill when she who must be listened to said to get rid of it.

Yes, outdoor BBQ is the Husky oven around here.

Quick questiobns on using the BBQ to make the engine cases outgrow grow the bearings...
I can pin a charcoal grill at 250 F all day long (I do barbecue), but... Any concerns with igniting the magnesium when using charcoal? Also, does the grill get pretty well stunk up in a permanent sense, or does the smell of heated grease dissipate over a couple days?

Mine is propane so no charcoal to deal with. Smell has not been an issue.

The left bearing bore read 2. 017 the bearing for that bore reads to point for for that side read 2. 047. that is just a quick measurement this morning when I got to the shop I'll do a more finite measurement when I get back to the shop. Sounds like it's close.

Checked again they are bore 2.019 or 51.29mm and bearing 2.046 or 51.97mm. pretty close to a half a mm. The bearings are on the left stub/pin 6205/C3, in the original damaged right case 3205/C3 and in the replacement right case 5205 C3. All these bearings are good and tight so I will reuse the 3205/C3 and get new ones for the left case. Here's a pic of the tools I used to measure with and pulled the crank with, see no hammer. I'll use my pottery furnace to heat the cases for reassembly, it has a digital controller. so I can get exactly the temp I want. First I'll tune the crank.

I would still get a true Max capacity 26 to 28 ball ignition side bearings The max is just that has more balls and more durable than the one i see. PM I have a couple sources if needed

250 degrees aint gonna cut it. do not be afraid to go 300 + on a Husky. don't believe me? check the manuals and I can tell you from doing many the diff between 250 and 300 + is night and day on ease.

Agree on the ignition side bearing, use what Gary suggests. It’s a few bucks more and you shouldn’t ever have to buy it again. The other side and all trans bearings are common numbers and inexpensive.

Thanks guys. I was going to buy a complete set of bearings from VH after mulling the ones I have. I'll Pm Gary and use the better bearing for the ignition side and see if I can get a better deal sourcing the rest. 175$ seems steep for a set but he is doing all the work. As for the case temp for replacement I'll go with Joe and try at 320F. Chris

My outside propane BBQ has a thermometer on the lid. No idea how accurate it is. I put each case half on an old metal cookie sheet, center case surface down, and crank it up to 350 or so. About 15 minutes later you hear CLUNK as the bearings begin to fall out. Some might stick. Put on your welding gloves, grab the hot case and rap it firmly downward on a block of wood (I keep a 4x4 next to the BBQ). The stubborn bearings will fall out. If they don't fall out, it usually means I didn't get them hot enough.

Same process going back in. Have everything laid out. Heat cases, flip them over, drop bearings in. They usually fall all the way home, but have an O.D.-matching socket ready to tap them down and make sure. For the crank bearings temporarily bolt the retaining plates onto the cases to act as the proper backstop. Before you install the seals, of course...

You know once apart - this is the best time to change all the bearings Its also a must to change the countershaft output bearing for sure. It has the rubber seal that seals all the oil in tranny. Follow what pick says above. But also put bearing in freezer overnight, it helps alot. Choose a great main seal also. I have been using SKF version. of course put main seal in when cool. It would be so hard to have to tear down again.