Yvoshkiro
Husqvarna
A Class
Here is my review on my husky 630 2011 I bought in februari.
I sold my Gsxr1000K5 with the main reason that 190hp is just too much for the public roads, I just could not use the full potential of the bike without turning into a complete kamikaze and I've found myself unsatisfied after every time i went for a ride.
So decisions where made and I dismissed the suz from his duty and went looking for a funbike.
As I had a couple of friends riding with a supermoto I got some good info on how to choose the proper bike for the job,
and made a list of desired characteristics :
-reliable
-low maintenance intervals (every 2000km I could live with , every 500 I don’t)
-weight, it didn’t have to be a superlightweight but I didn’t wanted a heavy bike(160 kg max !)
-good braking power
-enough power to pop an occasional wheelie.
-design (I’m not paying for a ugly duck)
-…
My first choice was an KTM 690SMC , 65hp stock slipperclutch; Suitable for everyday riding, ample performance, striking appearance, 100 % “Ready to Race”!
Yeah this sounds about right , except for the price that is . 8900 euro for the 2010 model ‘(12,755 dollar)
6800 euro (9800$) on second hand market with 5000+km/3000miles (2008-2009)
Then I stumbled on the action price for the husky 630, a newer version of the 610
6999 euro (10000$) for a brand new bike with 2 years warranty + 500euro for the arrows.
At this point I started to compair the two options I had, for more or less the same price.
Husky 630 2011 KTM 690smc 2009
+new -Used (5000km)
+2yrs warranty -no warranty
+confort (soft sadle) -not so cousy, tall stiff bike
+looks(personal) -looks
-no slipper clutch -slipper clutch
-hp +hp
-weight +weight
-Sachs rear shock +WP rear shock
-4.25inch rim +5inch rim
It was not an easy choice but I decided to give the 630 a chance.
I ordered the arrows +ecu as well.
As For the braking-in process I followed manual instructions
Here’s some demo movie of the bike in stock setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZ165WTzYgI[/video]
after the break in period
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNQKx0XLZyk[/video]
After 1000km the bikes went in for the first maintenance and got it back
With following mods :
-Excell rims with goldspeed slicks
-42T sprocket on the rear
-112link gold chain
-O2 sensor removal
-resistor plug (P/u kit)
-zefal spy mirrors
-talon foot rests
-acerbis handguards
I guess you want to hear how it runs? Does it lack performance?
Is the bike too heavy? Does it do instant wheelies in every gear ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyQ0fVnSn0k[/video]
Wel here’s my “opinion” :
The bike runs very bad with stock exhaust on idle.
REMEDY : the famous “power up” kit . replace the O2 sensor by a 2,2kOhm resistor. (this does not change anything to the power of the bike) it only makes the idle run smoother.
Also is the stock gearing very high 15/38 so it stumbles on low speed.
REMEDY : replace it by a 40 to 43 sprocket . it makes the bike pull harder but also smoother when riding at low speed.(but you hit high rpms faster)
Weight:
The bike is NOT too heavy , it’s an all around supermoto with Race potential ,
I have compaired it with a 650 husaberg130kg dry weight), overall power is pretty much the same.
The engine runs much smoother than the husa ,braking power is the same,
Only thing is that the husa drops faster into the corner, but when it comes to acceleration the husky is much more stable.
+ The extra weight is not an issue for me.
But there are some solutions : replace the exhaust pipes, battery,foot pegs, skip a burger or two.
and fill up your tank with only 5liter instead of the full 12liters.
A full tank will come in handy when youre traveling the enduro way,
For 100km of supermoto fun the 5Liters will do.
So there you go 143kg dry weight and a bike with potential.
“Yeah but the bikes does not go wheelie @ command”
There’s something called “technique” , you have to work the suspension , brakes, clutch and torque to put it up.
(yeah even in 3th and 4th)
Once up, there’s youre chance to switch gears, or it goes down again.
It takes some years to get this right, but the bike’s certainly got the capacity only the pilot needs to do the work.
In the movie I posted you can see some footage of the technique with speed in km/h and rpms.
The rider in the film is a friend of mine and is being practicing for years.
So don’t be blaming the bike (like I did at first
) or be discouraged.
It’s just not that simple (or just buy an R1)
Brakes :
Braking power is excellent but the pump/lever feeling is pretty lousy.
I ordered a Brembo Rcs15. This will do the trick.
The million dollar question :what about the lack of power?
Yeah what about it?
The bike comes with a small airintake, catalyst exhaust pipes and small rear sprocket.
This bike has left the factory with the intention to be a easy going reliable bike for all day traffic with the looks of a supermoto.
They did not want average joe to have a ready to race bike running high rpms and popping wheelies here and there,
but they wanted a bike that runs the higher speeds on average rpms so they could subscribe long maintenance intervals.
And still be pretty sure the bike will last longer than 2years (warranty period) without problems popping up.
If you want the power, and race factor you will have to invest .
Not only on power upgrades but also on shorter maintenance intervals.
If you do this , I’m sure this bike will last forever. As these engines are as robust and indestructible as they can be on a supermoto.
What needs to be done:
Well proper braking in process for starters.
Then comes the pipes,
I’ve got the arrows with ecu.
Open up the air intakes (us models have some crazy labyrinth)
+42 T sprocket on the rear for fun factor x10 (comes with a longer chain)
Excel rims with slicks for ultimate grip.
I gues its time for a little dyno run.
So what does this chart tell’s us :
55hp so far on the rear @6700 rpm
Good part :The bikes best torque area is between 4200 and 6000 (this is where the bike pulls like mad, and this is the area the wheelie’s come from)
Bad part :From 7000 to 8000 the hp drops a little you do not want to be in this area when accelerating out of a corner to prevent high/low siders.
Do you see the graph beneath ,
This is the air/fual ratio , this should be 13 for ideal circumstances (between the yellow and green line)
Everything beneath is to rich everything above is too poor.
This means that the bike is running way too poor (too much air, not enough fuel for the delivered compression)
You can ride it like that if you like, but this is not the best situation for the engine. And can cause damage in time.
The air intake has being opened up and this is causing this problem (the ecu was calculated for the arrows with small air intake)
Remedy : install a power commander V.
You can order a autotunekit if you are planning on making youre own maps or you change exhaust pipes very often. 230 euro
Or you just let the dyno guys make youre custom map on the bench.
This process takes 3 to 4 hours and cost 150 euros aprox.
If you choose the last option , do not make changes to your airbox or exhaust pipes later on. or you have need to adjust youre mappings again.
Option 3 download a custom map from the dynojet site (till now there are no maps available) these are maps uploaded by other users.
I will upload my mappings when I got them , so other people could download them .
They will be a close approach for every bike with arrows / pu/kit / open intake but it is always more interesting when it’s custom made for you’re machine.
If you run someone else’s mappings I recommend a check up on the dyno to see if it runs properly.
If you do not want to invest in a power commander I suggest you leave the air intake alone and install only exhaust systems that comes with their ecu.
Anyway I will post the dyno results with proper fuel ratio when I got my paycheck
I’m pretty sure it will hit the 60hp so MA$TER_E can fetch me a burger
oh and btw , i luv this bike
I sold my Gsxr1000K5 with the main reason that 190hp is just too much for the public roads, I just could not use the full potential of the bike without turning into a complete kamikaze and I've found myself unsatisfied after every time i went for a ride.
So decisions where made and I dismissed the suz from his duty and went looking for a funbike.
As I had a couple of friends riding with a supermoto I got some good info on how to choose the proper bike for the job,
and made a list of desired characteristics :
-reliable
-low maintenance intervals (every 2000km I could live with , every 500 I don’t)
-weight, it didn’t have to be a superlightweight but I didn’t wanted a heavy bike(160 kg max !)
-good braking power
-enough power to pop an occasional wheelie.
-design (I’m not paying for a ugly duck)
-…
My first choice was an KTM 690SMC , 65hp stock slipperclutch; Suitable for everyday riding, ample performance, striking appearance, 100 % “Ready to Race”!
Yeah this sounds about right , except for the price that is . 8900 euro for the 2010 model ‘(12,755 dollar)
6800 euro (9800$) on second hand market with 5000+km/3000miles (2008-2009)
Then I stumbled on the action price for the husky 630, a newer version of the 610
6999 euro (10000$) for a brand new bike with 2 years warranty + 500euro for the arrows.
At this point I started to compair the two options I had, for more or less the same price.
Husky 630 2011 KTM 690smc 2009
+new -Used (5000km)
+2yrs warranty -no warranty
+confort (soft sadle) -not so cousy, tall stiff bike
+looks(personal) -looks
-no slipper clutch -slipper clutch
-hp +hp
-weight +weight
-Sachs rear shock +WP rear shock
-4.25inch rim +5inch rim
It was not an easy choice but I decided to give the 630 a chance.
I ordered the arrows +ecu as well.
As For the braking-in process I followed manual instructions
Here’s some demo movie of the bike in stock setup.
after the break in period
After 1000km the bikes went in for the first maintenance and got it back
With following mods :
-Excell rims with goldspeed slicks
-42T sprocket on the rear
-112link gold chain
-O2 sensor removal
-resistor plug (P/u kit)
-zefal spy mirrors
-talon foot rests
-acerbis handguards
I guess you want to hear how it runs? Does it lack performance?
Is the bike too heavy? Does it do instant wheelies in every gear ?
Wel here’s my “opinion” :
The bike runs very bad with stock exhaust on idle.
REMEDY : the famous “power up” kit . replace the O2 sensor by a 2,2kOhm resistor. (this does not change anything to the power of the bike) it only makes the idle run smoother.
Also is the stock gearing very high 15/38 so it stumbles on low speed.
REMEDY : replace it by a 40 to 43 sprocket . it makes the bike pull harder but also smoother when riding at low speed.(but you hit high rpms faster)
Weight:
The bike is NOT too heavy , it’s an all around supermoto with Race potential ,
I have compaired it with a 650 husaberg130kg dry weight), overall power is pretty much the same.
The engine runs much smoother than the husa ,braking power is the same,
Only thing is that the husa drops faster into the corner, but when it comes to acceleration the husky is much more stable.
+ The extra weight is not an issue for me.
But there are some solutions : replace the exhaust pipes, battery,foot pegs, skip a burger or two.
and fill up your tank with only 5liter instead of the full 12liters.
A full tank will come in handy when youre traveling the enduro way,
For 100km of supermoto fun the 5Liters will do.
So there you go 143kg dry weight and a bike with potential.
“Yeah but the bikes does not go wheelie @ command”
There’s something called “technique” , you have to work the suspension , brakes, clutch and torque to put it up.
(yeah even in 3th and 4th)
Once up, there’s youre chance to switch gears, or it goes down again.
It takes some years to get this right, but the bike’s certainly got the capacity only the pilot needs to do the work.
In the movie I posted you can see some footage of the technique with speed in km/h and rpms.
The rider in the film is a friend of mine and is being practicing for years.
So don’t be blaming the bike (like I did at first
) or be discouraged.It’s just not that simple (or just buy an R1)
Brakes :
Braking power is excellent but the pump/lever feeling is pretty lousy.
I ordered a Brembo Rcs15. This will do the trick.
The million dollar question :what about the lack of power?
Yeah what about it?
The bike comes with a small airintake, catalyst exhaust pipes and small rear sprocket.
This bike has left the factory with the intention to be a easy going reliable bike for all day traffic with the looks of a supermoto.
They did not want average joe to have a ready to race bike running high rpms and popping wheelies here and there,
but they wanted a bike that runs the higher speeds on average rpms so they could subscribe long maintenance intervals.
And still be pretty sure the bike will last longer than 2years (warranty period) without problems popping up.
If you want the power, and race factor you will have to invest .
Not only on power upgrades but also on shorter maintenance intervals.
If you do this , I’m sure this bike will last forever. As these engines are as robust and indestructible as they can be on a supermoto.
What needs to be done:
Well proper braking in process for starters.
Then comes the pipes,
I’ve got the arrows with ecu.
Open up the air intakes (us models have some crazy labyrinth)
+42 T sprocket on the rear for fun factor x10 (comes with a longer chain)
Excel rims with slicks for ultimate grip.
I gues its time for a little dyno run.
So what does this chart tell’s us :
55hp so far on the rear @6700 rpm
Good part :The bikes best torque area is between 4200 and 6000 (this is where the bike pulls like mad, and this is the area the wheelie’s come from)
Bad part :From 7000 to 8000 the hp drops a little you do not want to be in this area when accelerating out of a corner to prevent high/low siders.
Do you see the graph beneath ,
This is the air/fual ratio , this should be 13 for ideal circumstances (between the yellow and green line)
Everything beneath is to rich everything above is too poor.
This means that the bike is running way too poor (too much air, not enough fuel for the delivered compression)
You can ride it like that if you like, but this is not the best situation for the engine. And can cause damage in time.
The air intake has being opened up and this is causing this problem (the ecu was calculated for the arrows with small air intake)
Remedy : install a power commander V.
You can order a autotunekit if you are planning on making youre own maps or you change exhaust pipes very often. 230 euro
Or you just let the dyno guys make youre custom map on the bench.
This process takes 3 to 4 hours and cost 150 euros aprox.
If you choose the last option , do not make changes to your airbox or exhaust pipes later on. or you have need to adjust youre mappings again.
Option 3 download a custom map from the dynojet site (till now there are no maps available) these are maps uploaded by other users.
I will upload my mappings when I got them , so other people could download them .
They will be a close approach for every bike with arrows / pu/kit / open intake but it is always more interesting when it’s custom made for you’re machine.
If you run someone else’s mappings I recommend a check up on the dyno to see if it runs properly.
If you do not want to invest in a power commander I suggest you leave the air intake alone and install only exhaust systems that comes with their ecu.
Anyway I will post the dyno results with proper fuel ratio when I got my paycheck
I’m pretty sure it will hit the 60hp so MA$TER_E can fetch me a burger
oh and btw , i luv this bike
