• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

WR400 water "frothing" in Radiator ??

NZHusky

NZHusky

Husqvarna
B Class
85 Husky WR400 (now 430cc), frothing water in Radiator and blowing a bit out overflow only sometimes usually under hard acceleration.......any ideas why? water is hot (normal) but not boiling after a run......is this common?? am I stressing over nothing?

New to old school husky Kettles so still learning...............:confused:

Thanks in advance
 
Hi NZHusky,

It should behave no differently to a car (without a header tank) with regard radiator issues.

When you say 'frothing' is a white froth when you open the rad cap? If it is white then you could have an oil leak into the water system or the water has become contaminated by other means.

With regard to blowing out water under hard acceleration. It could be that the rad cap has become weak and therefore the pressure build up forces the water out through the vent pipe (which is designed to do in the event of too much pressure) or it could be that too much pressure has built up due to gasket leak which happens under load. Normally this would manifest itself in loss of power though...

I'm not sure how you could test the Rad cap spring for it's pressure rating unless you had a spare right Rad which you could slowly build up the pressure until it vented....

Hope this helps.

Stu
 
Thanks Stu....the frothing is of a green colour probably due to the anti corrosion in the water, I did the ole finger dip in the water to see if there was any traces of oil,cant see any traces...I will change water and retorque head bolts and head screws when hot. Looks like the cap is its original Husky cap so could be weak....has anybody else experienced this?
If oil was leaking in, where would it be coming from?

Cheers
Phil
 
Hi Phil,

If you can't see any traces of oil in the water then chances are there are no leaks. The frothing could be the result of the venting.

Do you have a friend that has Husky you can borrow a Rad cap from to test? You might have to go down the 'process of elimination' route.

Stu
 
NZHusky;127859 said:
Thanks Stu....the frothing is of a green colour probably due to the anti corrosion in the water, I did the ole finger dip in the water to see if there was any traces of oil,cant see any traces...I will change water and retorque head bolts and head screws when hot. Looks like the cap is its original Husky cap so could be weak....has anybody else experienced this?
If oil was leaking in, where would it be coming from?

Cheers
Phil
Click to expand...

I thought re-torque should take place when engine is cooled off?
at least thats what I did on my '71 400 after the rebuild.
re-torqued 3 times
 
yip your right mike.....re-torque when cold . Had to remove pipe to get at half of them so hot is not a good option anyway. 29ft lbs on the nuts and 26ft lbs on the screws.........all needed torqueing !!
have to wait for the weekend now to see if its cured
Cheers
Phil
 
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