• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc wr300 muffler repack

zilly

zilly

Husqvarna
AA Class
Any tricks to getting this thing apart? I have the rivet and bolts out and I can't get the end cap off (spark arrestor end) or the front of the muffler out. I haven't had a whole bunch of time to work on this because I have been really busy with work but I am going to get serious this weekend and I am sure that the smarter/handier people on this site have some ideas.

Its the stock muffler on an 09 wr300.

I know, I know I should have done this a long time ago.
 
If its anything like the 125 silencer, a rubber mallet against the subframe mount point has worked for me.

If it has an o-ring for a sealing surface its a bitch to take off. I have ditched the o-ring and used rtv sealant in it's place. You can't even get the o-ring back on anyway.

It's like it was cryogenically pressed into place. Then embew'd with mystical holding powers no mortal shall understand.
 
Ok, got it.
Try a hammer and then if that doesn't work then I will consult my mystical power source-also known as a beer fridge.
Sounds like a fun saturday, but I'd rather be riding.
 
Just went through this, i also ditched the o ring. I thought i would have to bring the silencer to the body shop where i work and use the frame machine to get it apart**************************************** You dont have enough beer in your fridge to help you get it together w the o ring!!
 
justpinit said:
You dont have enough beer in your fridge to help you get it together w the o ring!!
Click to expand...

Absolutely correct. Black RTV silicone it, clean up the edge before it dries.

Rubber mallet the inlet side off first, working it from side to side but don't get too western with it . That will leave the perforated tube exposed that you can push the other end out with. Don't hammer on the tube: it might goof it up enough to make it hard to get back together. Voice of experience.

It could be worse. You could have white oil syndrome and be looking at the now mangled water pump seal. Voice of experience.
 
I need to repack the stock silencer on my 2011 WR300. Is it necessary to remove the rivets to replace the packing material?
 
OZ487 said:
I need to repack the stock silencer on my 2011 WR300. Is it necessary to remove the rivets to replace the packing material?
Click to expand...
Yes. The entire assembly comes out of the aluminum silencer body. The original packing was really dense and difficult to remove with the perf. tube so I pulled it apart with needle nose pliers. After I removed as much as I could reach with the pliers the rest came out with the assembly.

I used the Lexx brand sheet, cut it in half, and put the seam at the top. I can't remember the logic behind that, after trying and failing to get the big O-ring assembled. Just use RTV. If you use the sheet lay it out with your tube and make sure you cut it the right way. I used masking tape in three places to keep it together as I put it on. The tape burns away or just sits in there. The looser packing does seem quieter.

I like using a rivet gun. Something really crude yet clever about rivets.
 
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