• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc wr300 break in period over

B

billyp10980

Husqvarna
AA Class
Ok. I have been riding my 2009 wr 300 for a few weeks now. Sag is set , clickers are where I want them. Overall the bike is great in the tight rocky sing singletrack I ride. Plenty of power and the suspension soaks up the rocks very good. I have even put my first good dent in the pipe. Lol! My biggest issue is the height. I still get high sided alot on tight turns both up and down tight trails. Is this the time I bring the fork tubes up in the triple clamps? Any other suggestions?
 
Go under Technical Section. Look @ Dwight's (Vinduro) sag numbers. Make sure your front sag is correct/spring rates. Should carve like butter, once this is done.
 
Can also be the type of rear tyre your using and condition?

If the rear end tends to skip or washout, lowering or raising the front end will only cause the front to steer quicker or slower...the real problem is either the preload or rebound damping at the rear.
Compression is the ability for the rear to fight bottoming and in most cases, the front compression clicker settings roughly equal the rear.
Preload is the amount of force you have placed on the spring (this is how you set the rear sag too), too low and the bike's rear will want to squat under acceleration and bike will handle like a pig; too much and your arse and spine will cop a workout as all those force from bumps are transferred through your arseameter.
Also, the rear spring should be to your weight, too soft and rear will want to slide as it reduces what the rebound damping is trying too do (is your front steering sharply at this stage?); too hard and the bike feels like a plank of wood and the bike will want to mono at every opportunity.
You've set the sag (what is it?) so the it's in the ball park, now you need to visually see the the speed in which the rear rises when you push down on the seat...quick then this indicates a soft rebound setting vs slow indicating hard rebound setting.
Most bike's today have high speed and low speed rebound, just focus on the low speed (low speed = large, square type bumps vs high speed = serious of small round bumps) rebounding l think this where your problems lie.
Again, write things down and adjust, ride and note the difference in the clicker settings before you move on to the next part of the suspension (preload, rebound, compression).

Lastly, how are you braking coming into these low speed/tight turns as it can also be technique that causes the rear slide out if you are locking/sliding into these corners via the rear brake?

Suspenion seems like a pain in the arse but if you play with one setting at a time, you'll get your head around it - remember, what you do to the rear will effect your front end.
 
How tall are you? I am about 6' and this bike fits me just about perfect. My YZ on the other hand, is a tad scrunched up. It could be the ergos, and stepping the seat, like troffer said would be a good way to go. Not sure if someone makes a link to lower it or not, that may be an option as well.
 
Hi! I mad my seat a step seat. i cut 1 inch of the middle section as i,m 175cm. i have a percfect height, but the seat is not that comfy to say the least. It,s hard but it,s better when i am about to fall off as i can push back much easier now. You just need a fat ass to compensate=)!
 
I'm 5'8" 180lbs (give or take a couple meals). The tires are an issue as they are stock and don't grip very well but I'm not sure thats the problem. I will be replacing the tires soon though. The bike feels tall on flat ground as well but I think that is just because I'm used to riding my old beat up kdx that really doesnt take much weight for it to squat down. Overall handling is good except in the tight rocky turns especially going uphill or a sharp downhill drop. I get high sided and can't get a foot down at all and end up just falling over when I run into trouble. The suspension soaks up the rocks really well in most situations. I know it will take some getting used to but I would be able to take some turns a bit tighter and when it gets a little hairy it would just like to be able to put a leg out and at least touch the ground. I'm not tall I know but sometimes I feel like I'm 4'9".
 
Raised the fork tubes in the triple clamps today. Noticed a difference right away. Handling felt much better. I had much more control of the bike and moved quicker through the tight stuff. Amazing what a little adjustment will do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top