250-500cc WR300 basket of clutch

[raysaw]

Question for the learned Cafe Huskyites:

My wonderfully fun 09 Wr300 has always had an issue with a shitty clutch pull and not fully engaging until it is fully released. Now before everyone starts firing off about adjusting the cable, lubeing the cable - I have done it. But coming back from a ride last weekend having my left forearm so vein ridden and swollen that I couldn't close my hand, I decided to put an easy pull clutch on. The result is great, I adjusted it so that the clutch arm (at the engine end) is completely parked when the clutch lever is a rest and the pull is much lighter (not hydraulic clutch light) but much better than standard. Anyway, that is not my question - but this is:

Is it normal to have a reasonable level of resistance with the bike off but in gear (with the clutch pulled in) when pushing it forward, as opposed to the smooth resistance free roll associated with having the bike in neutral and pushing it.

By the way, I have just replaced my gearbox oil with Fuschs 2t racing gearbox oil - haven't ridden it yet, but it has made no difference to the resistance in gear (didn't expect it to either).

Feedback appreciated.... The Saw

 

[johnnyboy]

Even harder to move when the motor/oil is cold I say its perfectly normal and every bike I have owned have been the same but I aint never had a WR300

 

[R_Little]

The Wr250/300 has a rather stiff clutch pull and a touch of drag as well.

There is an adjustment on the basket that might help.

My WR has a Hebo Hydro clutch and it is SWeeeeeeT!

 

[lankydoug]

There must be some bike to bike differences on the WRs, my 09 WR250 has a silky clutch that although is very slightly harder to pull than my GasGas EC200 which is known for their smooth and easy hydraulic clutches. I have a shorty lever and all else is stock on my Husky and I use one or sometimes two fingers on my clutch... always. My GasGas might be 10% easier to pull but I like the feel of the Husky cable clutch. Someday I'll meet up with one of the Husky riders that are complaining of this hard pulling clutch and compare clutches and maybe we could solve this. (there must be a reason)

 

[Twatty]

My clutch had been stiffer after I fitted the 6 speed, I just assumed I needed to be lubed. Then I decided to re-route the cable and the difference is amazing, it's gone from giving me arm pump in 10 minutes, to being able to single finger constant use all day with zero arm pump. Well chuffed!
As others said, clutch drag is normal with the engine off.

 

[Steve-oh]

My 2010 WR300 clutch pull is not bad at all. I did change out the clutch lever and perch. I needed a perch that has a mirror mount. The new clutch lever is slightly longer.

 

[raysaw]

My clutch had been stiffer after I fitted the 6 speed, I just assumed I needed to be lubed. Then I decided to re-route the cable and the difference is amazing, it's gone from giving me arm pump in 10 minutes, to being able to single finger constant use all day with zero arm pump. Well chuffed!
As others said, clutch drag is normal with the engine off.

Twatty, could you tell me where you rerouted the clutch cable so I can try. Thanks.

 

[Twatty]

Twatty, could you tell me where you rerouted the clutch cable so I can try. Thanks.

No worries mate,
I'm away from home at the moment, but I'll post some pics up late next week if you like.
Basically I just ran the cable from the lever straight over the bars to the headstem area(instead of infront of the bars then behind the triple clamp), and at the bottom I ran it around the outside of the coolant hose, it hangs out in the breeze a bit, but it's nice to use.
I lubed the cable as well, I know it can attract dirt, but I figure when it gets stiffer I'll just flush and lube again.

 

[raysaw]

No worries mate,
I'm away from home at the moment, but I'll post some pics up late next week if you like.
Basically I just ran the cable from the lever straight over the bars to the headstem area(instead of infront of the bars then behind the triple clamp), and at the bottom I ran it around the outside of the coolant hose, it hangs out in the breeze a bit, but it's nice to use.
I lubed the cable as well, I know it can attract dirt, but I figure when it gets stiffer I'll just flush and lube again.

Thanks Twatty, I'll look forward to the pics.

 

[raysaw]

Just an update. I fully lubricated the clutch cable again with wd40 - making sure I got it to travel the full length of the cable. Next I fitted a raptor ezy pull clutch lever and seated the clutch cable terminator in the third clutch lever position (closest to the bottom of the lever - the position that provides the highest point of leverage), finally I added the stock clutch levers cable adjuster in replacement of the standard one supplied with the raptor. The result - bloody brilliant - about 10% heavier than the new hydraulic units found on bikes like the gas gas 300. One of he best mods I have done - love it!

 

[dartyppyt]

Now add another 1/2 inch to your clutch arm down by the case. It will 50% easier yet.

 

[raysaw]

Hey Dartyppyt, have you done this with the clutch arm, if so, how? Did you buy a new arm?

 

[Johnnymannen]

Clutchdrag is the worst thing with my 300. I love the bike in everyway except the clutchdrag. i will try another oil as that could make a big difference. regular transmission oil for tractors i said to be very good actually.

 

[PC.]

Any machinists out there interested in turning out some of these clutch arm extenders?
I really want one and I was gonna ask RB if he'd do it, but it would be easier for someone who's done it before and has the specs.
If someone has the means & time then I'm sure others (& myself) would pony up some cash to fund the operation.

 

[dartyppyt]

All you have to do is drain oil, pop cover off, loosen bolts holding your springs and remove cover over your clutch plates. On sprocket side twist your clutch arm and pull it out. Up under the arm, someone needs to grind the weld off flush with arm, around shaft. On the top grind the peened end flush. Arm pops off and if I remember, the shaft and arm are D shaped. On the other end, file the bottom of rivet under cable holder. Save rivet, cause I welded it back on under holder. Take it to someone to trace you out a new arm but extend it 1/2 longer. Weld new lever on up underneath/on top. Make sure new arm was lined up where old came off. Then install cable holder, put rivet back in and flip over tack weld rivet.

Note: protect the shaft under arm from grinding and weld spatter. It goes down thru the seal.

Go read the thread WR250/300 ez pull clutch. I put some pics in there.

PC, send me yours, I can do yours, make an extra arm,return your old arm to show Ron.

 

[Twatty]

Thanks Twatty, I'll look forward to the pics.

Here you go;

I've got an extension for the clutch lever(at the engine end) in my garage that came with the 360 bottom end I robbed the 6 speed out of.
I've contemplated fitting it, but I'm worried that it will increase the lever stroke too much, are you guys that have done this mod still able to fully disengage the clutch with 1 or 2 finger operation?

 

[raysaw]

Thanks mate
Your bike looks bloody wicked by the way!
What chamber and exhaust do you have on it? What change to the power did it make?

 

[PC.]

Go read the thread WR250/300 ez pull clutch. I put some pics in there.

PC, send me yours, I can do yours, make an extra arm,return your old arm to show Ron.

Just saw this Darin.....

Man, I forgot how sweet your wr250 is. It looks awesome in the pics from the ez pull thread!
Twatty too! I wish my bike looked half as nice as either.

Darin, I much appreciate the offer! I see that you made a new arm and welded it to the OEM shaft (right!?).
What about just bolting on an extension to the factory arm (like I've seen in a pic floating around CH)? Then no need to weld, grind or remove arm from motor.
It wont look factory like yours does, but my bike looks like a bum anyway.

Now where's that pic....

 

[dartyppyt]

Just saw this Darin.....

Man, I forgot how sweet your wr250 is. It looks awesome in the pics from the ez pull thread!
Twatty too! I wish my bike looked half as nice as either.

Darin, I much appreciate the offer! I see that you made a new arm and welded it to the OEM shaft (right!?).
What about just bolting on an extension to the factory arm (like I've seen in a pic floating around CH)? Then no need to weld, grind or remove arm from motor.
It wont look factory like yours does, but my bike looks like a bum anyway.

Now where's that pic....

Yes, I took the old one off and made new one, then migged it on. You probably could drill the old one and extend it. Thanx for the compliments on 250. She gets a total face lift this winter and will post pics this spring.

If you change your mind just send me your shaft. How's that 125? Hope that 300 isn't neglected!