• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR250 US/CND model Enduro Light Kit

Loco

Loco

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi all, I'm new to the site, it is awesome!!!
I just got a Enduro Light kit and wire harness. I was not sure where to tap in for power, and chose the yellow wire coming from the regulator (only one yellow wire on it). I spliced the wire and connected it to the harness. The grounding of the harness was done right to the frame, just in front of the coil. I started the bike and almost 11 pm, and there was no lights :( and did not want to get shot, so I left it like that. I will check for voltages with my multimeter tonight. I've read that the stator is good for 120 or 130 W, so it should be enough to light up my 35W bulb.
The other question is, if the regulator has only one wire, is it rectifying at the same time? I'm wondering if the LED brake lights will work with AC.
Thanks in advance, and any clues would be greatly appreciated.
Ed
 
Check the voltage from the regulator where you spliced it from (yellow wire), it's DC (meant to say AC) but the volts should be close to static and not ramp up when you rev the bike.
 
LED brake lights work fine on AC mate, run LED brake light, parking lights and indicators on mine, no probs.
 
Thanks for the reply Rob. I went back home after work and started the bike to test for voltage, but to my surprise, when I flicked the switch on, all was working. I might have not engaged the switch completely the previous night, but what a relieve! LEDs on the back were also working fine.
Now I'm on to the brake switch, and found that the fluid was black, so I tried flushing it, and cannot get any pressure on the line. I borrowed a mityvac so I will try that tonight.
Ed.
 
OMG, I believe the regulator that came with my US model WR250 is only that, it does not have a rectifier, so it is AC, but like Rob mentioned, the lights do work fine on AC, I guess the frequency of the pulse is fast enough that you won't notice. thanks for the reply!!
Ed
 
Essentially, the pulsing give the same affect as running them at a lower DC voltage. A lot of LED end up a little too dim, my current front indicators are. I wouldn't try a full LED headlight, as it would probably be too dim and HID will not work.
 
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