• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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125-200cc Wr144 What Am I Looking At?

Darkside

Darkside

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey Guys and Gals,
I picked up a 2009 wr144 last weekend. I got it 3rd hand. The guy I bought it from didn't really have much information about the bike except the the original owner put in a 144 kit, CR ignition, and a keihin carb. I took it for a ride at Hollister and it runs really strong (need to get used to riding a chain saw). Starts 2nd kick, seems to be jetted a bit rich because there's spooge dripping all over the place but doesn't balk or burble. The suspension is horrible. Both forks seals were leaking so bad it was burning on the pipe.
So I'm sending off the suspension the Les at LTR, and I'm on Kelly's list for a WB165 kit.
I started the tear the bike down for a good cleaning and I found some loose wires and a JD box zipped tyed in. I should I go back to the stock setup?

not sure what size the keihin is but it runs pretty good
IMAG0083.jpg


also got this in a box
IMAG0078.jpg



What are the loose wires?
IMAG0079.jpg


don't like the mounting much either
IMAG0081.jpg


IMAG0082.jpg
 
I would start with pulling the suspension, swing arm clamps etc and grease it and check all the bearings. I just bought a barely riden 06 and half the bearings were froze and nothing had any grease in it. and this thing has hardly been used.
 
Looks like that bike has the old Fast by Ferracci programmable ignition. The extra wires are probably for the switch that should be on your handlebars to swith the mapping.
 
It has been converted to a dual map ignition and a CR stator and fly wheel. FBF can change the ignition timing for you if you want to switch maps. The loose wires are from the lighting circuit of the other ignition. If you want lights the cr stator can be wound. It looks like the PWK airstriker that Kelly has been supplying. Great carb just doesn't fit as well as it could. It is bigger from spigot end to spigot end than the stock TMXX. Do you have the map switch for the handle bars? Get a CDI holder(rubber strap) from 2000-2002 CR125 and use that to hang the cdi and isolate it from vibration and wear.
 
+1 to what they all said... that's my old bike, bought it new from Idaho, rode it in Canada and Florida. Solid bike that never let me down. It's a 38 airstriker w/RB mods with a JD RED needle in it. Engine should be plenty tight, when I sold it it had few hours on a new ring, I think it only had a handful more with the second owner. Do the bearings too, probably ready for it by now, I'm guessing that bike has 55-60 hours.
 
Thanks for the info guys. After disassembling a little further it appears that those wires come from a plug from the trip meter which doesn't work anyways. I intend to remove the headlight and taillight. Is it safe to remove the wiring harness? The only other connection looks like it's coming from the rectifier, and if that's the case can I remove the rectifier also or is that not a good idea?
IMAG0086.jpg
Here's a better look at the cdi box
IMAG0085.jpg


Walt, will this setup work ok with the 165?
 
It will work great. The #1 map is just like the stock cr125 map. The #2 map is a smoothing map that makes for better traction when it is slick out. It was meant to stop the very top end surging you get going over whoops WOT. If you remove the regulator that will make an ideal spot for the CDI. The nice thing is that if you ride at Hollister a lot you will want to use the second map so you can get to hook up better when it is slick.
 
If you dont have the map switch on the bars for some reason just go on the FBF website and click on their Ebay page. They list the switches for 12 or 13 bucks. They have two pins that get pushed into the back of the wiring harness on the CDI.
 
If you dont have the map switch on the bars for some reason just go on the FBF website and click on their Ebay page. They list the switches for 12 or 13 bucks. They have two pins that get pushed into the back of the wiring harness on the CDI.
Click to expand...

Done! Thank you for the heads up.
 
wallybean said:
It has been converted to a dual map ignition and a CR stator and fly wheel. FBF can change the ignition timing for you if you want to switch maps. The loose wires are from the lighting circuit of the other ignition. If you want lights the cr stator can be wound. It looks like the PWK airstriker that Kelly has been supplying. Great carb just doesn't fit as well as it could. It is bigger from spigot end to spigot end than the stock TMXX. Do you have the map switch for the handle bars? Get a CDI holder(rubber strap) from 2000-2002 CR125 and use that to hang the cdi and isolate it from vibration and wear.
Click to expand...
Walt, I am looking for a way to mount my CDI. I have the same setup as Darkside. You mentioned a rubber strap from the '00 - '02 CR125. When I went on Halls site the CDI's from those years have mounting holes in them and use a rubber isolated bolt of some sort. Right now I have my CDI wrapped in a old rubber tube and wire tied in but it looks awful. The newer models use a rubber strap but Im not sure if the size of the CDI changed. Any ideas?
 
I have a 06 CR CDI and it is the wide one with the built in holes for mounting. I mounted a piece of aluminum to the area the regulator used to be. Then I mounted the cdi to that.
 
I used the rubber strap from the 09 CR125 to mount mine. It isn't the same shape but does work. I will look into what FBF was using in 02.
 
Thanks guys! I will look for either one. Walt let me know what you find out. I can call them next week too and ask.
 
I saw that bike on CL. Maybe there will be more than one WR144 at Hollister? I was curious why someone was selling a WR125 all setup.

JS
 
motocrossmr said:
Thanks guys! I will look for either one. Walt let me know what you find out. I can call them next week too and ask.
Click to expand...

Matt,

Here is the number for the 09 strap- 8000 A4045 They also made a rubber spacer so it would fit the square cdi unit- 8000 86004 This is the number of the bracket that holds the strap- 8000-A9343

Thats all I got. :)
 
Darkside said:
Thanks for the info guys. After disassembling a little further it appears that those wires come from a plug from the trip meter which doesn't work anyways. I intend to remove the headlight and taillight. Is it safe to remove the wiring harness? The only other connection looks like it's coming from the rectifier, and if that's the case can I remove the rectifier also or is that not a good idea?
IMAG0086.jpg
Here's a better look at the cdi box
IMAG0085.jpg


Walt, will this setup work ok with the 165?
Click to expand...


Is that a factory headstay?

Looks like someone made it in the garage.

Is this a fix for the 09 frames that were breaking?
 
Those are the recall brackets, the originals were polished with a recess and very thin, looked almost like sheet metal.
 
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