WR125 DR Tested

[robertaccio]

My 2 cents, 100% agree with Ajax

PS both of the Ajax bikes are just like a well tuned GP 2T the exhaust silencers have little or no spooge and are grayish and dry everytime I have seen them (3 or 4 times).

This is not my opinion, the factory spec for the 125 is and has been no less (oil) than 33:1 fuel oil ratio (32:1 is right there).
Less oil means shorter piston,big and little end bearing life, less ring seal (compression) and more rich fuel air ratio (yes less oil means a rich mixture)

 

[Motosportz]

This is not my opinion, the factory spec for the 125 is and has been no less (oil) than 33:1 fuel oil ratio (32:1 is right there).
Less oil means shorter piston,big and little end bearing life, less ring seal (compression) and more rich fuel air ratio (yes less oil means a rich mixture)

I have 1200 miles on 40:1 Amsoil. Piston and cylinder looked brand new. Slapped a new ring on and right back to 100% compression. that said I am not on the pipe a lot as this is 95% tighter woods riding and as it lugs well I am not pinned much. Maybe 5-10 % of the time. i would imagine in the Dez you are on the pipe much more.

 

[ajaxauto]

My point is only that the Husky 125 should not blow up there must be something wrong
One thing i have notice in both my 2008 and a newer 125 is the crank seal on the flywheel side has leaked a little .So if it is leaking a little it might also be sucking in air which would cause a lean mixture Easy fix just pull the mag and pop in a new seal if yours is leaking

 

[gestion01]

I kept it pined many times when it was a stock 125. It's a 125, at some point its going to get pined. It's for sure designed for it. I need to spend a couple days testing with jetting. I will borrow an ignition off a 2008 cr125 to see the difference.

 

[ajaxauto]

I kept it pined many times when it was a stock 125. It's a 125, at some point its going to get pined. It's for sure designed for it. I need to spend a couple days testing with jetting. I will borrow an ignition off a 2008 cr125 to see the difference.

Takes about 15 min to change just pull off the wr stuff and install the Cr stuff .Mark where it was and just put it in the same place
As for the black box on the fram it will mount close to where your 2009 is just move it around alittle or zip ty it for the test
Really would like to hear back about the difference want to see what you think
PS if you go cr and still want to run lights the stock cr has 3 poles not being used you can have them wired up and get 35 watts of power
Cost about 100 dollars See the thread about lights on a cr

 

[gestion01]

Good thing I sent it out. There's broken spring somewhere in the powervalve... could be part of my low power problem? or even contribute to the seized engine?

It did make a lot noise.

 

[pvduke]

Good thing I sent it out. There's broken spring somewhere in the powervalve... or even contribute to the seized engine?

It did make a lot noise.

the PV has nothing to due with an engine seizing. an engine seizing is a direct result of excess friction. period. impropper jetting is the #1 cause and is the cause 99.9% of the time. i run a 480m for up to 5500' lock to lock 1st gear pushing/lifting yer bike over stuff and a 490 - 500 for hi/low desert. my bike is crisp and clean and does not smoke with motul 710 2t oil @ 50:1.

all 2t muffs will drool sooner or later as the packing gets saturated @ 32:1.

if your engine made/makes noise- find out why before it explodes.

flywheel mass will affect throttle response in neutral. and unless we are talking tons of weight it has little effect on all out accelleration in off-road condtitions. flywheel mass = better traction by the sheer defenition of that word. it can also help with stalling to a degree.
mx riders on prepped tracks want the absolute most in throttle response so they get minmal f/w effect from the makers in most cases. but when it dries up and the tack goes away so does their traction. it's simple physics.

i'll also go heads up on my WR w/ all the armor, kickstand and 3 gals of gas against any stock MX 125 in a drag race. brrrring it.

 

[gestion01]

the PV has nothing to due with an engine seizing. an engine seizing is a direct result of excess friction. period. impropper jetting is the #1 cause and is the cause 99.9% of the time. i run a 480m for up to 5500' lock to lock 1st gear pushing/lifting yer bike over stuff and a 490 - 500 for hi/low desert. my bike is crisp and clean and does not smoke with motul 710 2t oil @ 50:1.

all 2t muffs will drool sooner or later as the packing gets saturated @ 32:1.

if your engine made/makes noise- find out why before it explodes.

flywheel mass will affect throttle response in neutral. and unless we are talking tons of weight it has little effect on all out accelleration in off-road condtitions. flywheel mass = better traction by the sheer defenition of that word. it can also help with stalling to a degree.
mx riders on prepped tracks want the absolute most in throttle response so they get minmal f/w effect from the makers in most cases. but when it dries up and the tack goes away so does their traction. it's simple physics.

i'll also go heads up on my WR w/ all the armor, kickstand and 3 gals of gas against any stock MX 125 in a drag race. brrrring it.

Thanks that's good info. I should at least try out a 490 main in that case. I run 32:1 in all my bikes, mostly because my kids ride 85's and at anything less than 32:1 you get bottom end problems with these at 40 and 50:1.

 

[pvduke]

ratios depend on the oil type as opposed to makers recomendation but most oil now are very flexible. i suggest 40:1 max as this leaves you more room for jetting. 32:1 makes it lean due to all that oil displacing the fuel. read yer plug after every jetting change.

 

[gestion01]

If i ever get in that situation again, cold morning, no time to re-jet before a race I'll pull the choke lever in wot terrain. That should give it more gas?

 

[motosapiens]

Its this sort of stuff that made me hesitate when I bought my current bike. I love Husky's and am willing to do what I can to get them to work for me. I am not prepared to spend hours and hours fixing a design issue, etc.. I only have so many hours to ride and I want a MINIMUM of hassle. For me, it was worth the extra $$$ to get a pumkin'.

Every bike I have ever owned has taken some research and adjustment to get it set up the way I like it. I actually fought alot harder with my 200 and for sure with my kx than i have with the husky so far.

 

[pvduke]

If i ever get in that situation again, cold morning, no time to re-jet before a race I'll pull the choke lever in wot terrain. That should give it more gas?

theres no such thing as no time to jet before a race.

no. the choke is usually over-ridden once off the idle ciruit or near that on some carbs and that's still not right. if you go down in elev or it's cold and thick air/ theres looooong striaghts or lots of sand go up one size main. rarely if ever will you go up or down 2 main steps.

once you dial in your slow (as/pj) and mid speed (needle) you should really only have to adjust the main (sans a minor AS tweaking) when there is a drastic elev change. if you seize during a race rebuild the engine and start from scratch on the jetting after verifying there are no air leaks.