• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc WR125 clutch adjustment

Hammy289

Hammy289

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi, have some questions on clutch adjustment on a newly acquired 2008 WR125. I've had it for about 25 hours now and during this time I've slowly run out of clutch adjustment at the lever to the point where there is minimal free play at the lever (but the clutch doesn't drag), yet the clutch lever wont always fully engage the clutch when pulled all the way back to the 'bars.

it's worse when it's cold to the point where it needs some front brake to stop it moving forward under revs... Note that this is also my daughters bike so I'm trying to diagnose this with limited first hand experience other than a short ride when I was unable to replicate it, and asking her heaps of questions

It's also quite notchy to drop into 1st gear and difficult to find neutral at times

So after our ride day I've finally noticed that there is a second adjustment about mid cable, but being in the shed now I've decided to check further

- Transmission fluid is ATF Dextron III and is only 6 hours old
- The first few pairs of clutch plates that i took out where lightly stuck together and required a "little" force by hand to separate
- plates were all wet and oily, are within thickness tolerances and seem to be flat (but haven't tested this on a super flat surface)
- springs were within tolerance except one was 1mm longer than the others
- some very minor notching on the clutch basket, but it's only noticable by feel on about half of the fingers
- a few little burs on the basket fingers at the top which i carefully filed off with the basket in situ
- some minor rough bits on the outside faces of the clutch plates where it fits between the clutch basket fingers, so I carefully filed these smooth

So to me, everything looks OK and I'm not too keen on taking the basket off if I don't have to

Should I just reassemble and adjust the freeplay and ride & test, or is there something else that I should check?

Would a disassembly and reassembly like this change the freeplay at the lever at all? If it goes together like it was pre-assembly then I won't have the recommended 3mm free play at the lever if I want enough lever pull to fully engage the clutch

thanks
 
Hi, have you replaced the cable :rolleyes: Did you mic the fiber plates? Mine were at minimum spec, but replaced the whole pack and cable = sweet!
You can also adjust the engaugment screw in the center of the hub, which is described in the manual and a number of posts in this forum. :cheers:
 
6 hours is a long time for oil to be in your box remember it's doing alot of work, also atf isn't designed for clutches.
IMO I would drain that out and pull cover of clutch whip off the plate under the 6 bolts and check that your hub nut isn't backing itself off.
Stick 0w40 in an away you go hopefully.
 
Thanks guys. I havent replaced the cable yet, and it was one of my early assumptions that it was old and stretched (but visually in good nick), so I may do that now just to eliminate it as a cause. I've measured the plate thicknesses and they are well within spec. The centre bolt in the clutch basket is held in place with a retaining washer so should not have moved, but I'll search the forum and see what I can find

Some other research makes me think that the plates that I found a little hard to seperate by hand may have been the problem, as the clutch drag symptoms are similar. Not sure that fixing this will fix my freeplay issues though, of whether simply reassembling them will stop them sticking again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top