250-500cc WR 300 mods and Hydraulic Clutch. Please post your pics

[9880sts]

Just about to purchase a WR300 2011.
Just had a short ride on it. I do like that Engine. Power straight out of a can.
But one thing keeps me off completely.... The Cable Clutch. Horror. Any mods available ???

Then it needed kicking 3-4 times ... nit awkward that position.
What sort of front fender did you Guys Install.

Thanks for the input Guys.

 

[firecrotch]

Contact magura. They do make a hydraulic clutch. Not cheap but best purchase I ever made. I grew up racing mx and am hard as hell on my clutches so yeah- I feel your pain. I know there's also a thread a year or two back where someone welded that actuating arm that the cable sits on to be a few mm longer which I would imagine helps hugely and is a cheap way to go. As far as kicking it Theres a certain technique. I always always always always feel for TDC and it's one maybe two kicks tops every single time when warm. Mattr of fact after owning the bike a couple years..I have come to conclusion your wasting your kicks unless you first get it to tdc. I also put a lectron carb on so that helps.

 

[lankydoug]

There are 3 easy mods to make the stock cable clutch better;

1. Adjust the geometry of the clutch arm at the case so it pulls across the travel centered at 90 degrees. This is done by adjusting the push-rod screw in the center of clutch basket and doesn't cost you any money.

2. Some people add a small amount of length to the actuating arm at the case where the cable hooks. This gives you more leverage. If you are a decent at welding/fabricating this is also a free or very inexpensive mod.

3. Buy a Motion Pro cable that is longitudinally wound.

I did 1. and 3. which improved the feel and made the pull lighter but I didn't think my clutch pull was all that bad to begin with. I use on finger most of the time. There are several threads about these mods, it seems that some of the bikes are worse than others to begin with.

 

[ajaxauto]

On my ex Zip Ty WR/CR 300 I run a motion Pro Cable made 3 inches shorter then stock I run the cable up the left side over the motor to the right rad then over to the clutch lever. Once the motor warms up and my 50 wt oil is flowing the clutch is a one finger pull I race extream off road events and the National Hare and hounds where we spend a lot of time on nansty single track no problem. Works almost as easy as my 125 Biggest plus never have to worry about a hydrilic problem

 

[Farmer John]

I posted some pictures in this thread a while back.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/wr300-add-ons.28665/#post-257430
Reply #4

 

[Cosmokenney]

Just about to purchase a WR300 2011.
Just had a short ride on it. I do like that Engine. Power straight out of a can.
But one thing keeps me off completely.... The Cable Clutch. Horror. Any mods available ???

Then it needed kicking 3-4 times ... nit awkward that position.
What sort of front fender did you Guys Install.

Thanks for the input Guys.

I'm with ya brother on clutch. I'm trying to contact Braktec (formerly AJP) for a hydro kit. I want to see if I can get a setup cheaper than the Magura. I'll post if I find anything.

On my ex Zip Ty WR/CR 300 I run a motion Pro Cable made 3 inches shorter then stock I run the cable up the left side over the motor to the right rad then over to the clutch lever. Once the motor warms up and my 50 wt oil is flowing the clutch is a one finger pull I race extream off road events and the National Hare and hounds where we spend a lot of time on nansty single track no problem. Works almost as easy as my 125 Biggest plus never have to worry about a hydrilic problem

I still want to see a picture of this routing. I don't understand how you can get it bent enough to go up the left side without binding??

 

[ajaxauto]

OK I will take a few pictures and post them really not that big of a deal I just do not have the cable going out side of the fram at the front. like I posted cable comes off the motor swings wide to the left then over to the right over the motor then goes between the fram on the right and the right rad then goes over to the left perch that way it really has no sharp bends and is shorter

 

[Cosmokenney]

OK I will take a few pictures and post them really not that big of a deal I just do not have the cable going out side of the fram at the front. like I posted cable comes off the motor swings wide to the left then over to the right over the motor then goes between the fram on the right and the right rad then goes over to the left perch that way it really has no sharp bends and is shorter

Okay, I think I got it now. Were/how did you attach it to the frame? I assume near the head tube like the original attachment point is?

 

[gwynfryn]

There are 3 easy mods to make the stock cable clutch better;

1. Adjust the geometry of the clutch arm at the case so it pulls across the travel centered at 90 degrees. This is done by adjusting the push-rod screw in the center of clutch basket and doesn't cost you any money.

2. Some people add a small amount of length to the actuating arm at the case where the cable hooks. This gives you more leverage. If you are a decent at welding/fabricating this is also a free or very inexpensive mod.

3. Buy a Motion Pro cable that is longitudinally wound.

I did 1. and 3. which improved the feel and made the pull lighter but I didn't think my clutch pull was all that bad to begin with. I use on finger most of the time. There are several threads about these mods, it seems that some of the bikes are worse than others to begin with.

 

[gwynfryn]

To adjust the push rod do you need to remove it?

I ask this because I just had a go ; I lay the bike on its side ,removed clutch cover, locked the nut with a socket (held by vise grips), inserted a screw driver and couldn't budge it . Didn't want to damage anything so gave up.

Wisdom sought. Ta

 

[lankydoug]

To adjust the push rod do you need to remove it?

I ask this because I just had a go ; I lay the bike on its side ,removed clutch cover, locked the nut with a socket (held by vise grips), inserted a screw driver and couldn't budge it . Didn't want to damage anything so gave up.

Wisdom sought. Ta

No you do not remove the pushrod. Loosen the lock nut, then the position of the arm is adjusted by the slotted adjuster in the center, it effectively lengthens or shortens the pushrod. I adjust this small amounts while pulling the clutch lever in and releasing it. Try to adjust it so that when you're pulling in the lever that in the mid-stoke of the travel the arm is 90 degrees to the cable. This will give you the ideal geometry for easier pull and a more complete release

 

[gwynfryn]

No you do not remove the pushrod. Loosen the lock nut, then the position of the arm is adjusted by the slotted adjuster in the center, it effectively lengthens or shortens the pushrod. I adjust this small amounts while pulling the clutch lever in and releasing it. Try to adjust it so that when you're pulling in the lever that in the mid-stoke of the travel the arm is 90 degrees to the cable. This will give you the ideal geometry for easier pull and a more complete release

Thanks.
I'll have another go but i'm sure the lock nut and push rod spun freely, i.e. I couldn't loosen the nut.

 

[lankydoug]

Thanks.
I'll have another go but i'm sure the lock nut and push rod spun freely, i.e. I couldn't loosen the nut.

You have to hold the center with a screwdriver while you loosen the locknut with a wrench.

 

[justintendo]

i ground a spare 10mm box wrench to fit better in order to do the above. in addition to performing this adjustment and running the terminator cable my 360 has a very very smooth clutch. a bit heavy but very smooth. i actually use an old school swede husky magura clutch lever + perch as it really gives a good mechanical advantage as well. bike starts in gear fantastic, never drags

 

[gwynfryn]

Okay I was doing everything right but the locknut is well locked. Don't want to damage the screwdriver slot so will pull the shaft out. Thanks.