• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR 250 transmission oil

454x said:
My allen was finger tight. Took everything apart to and put back together but now only have 1st and nuetral. What did I do wrong. I did notice a DOT on the shift star but did'nt see it when I took the dogs out.Help.....:cry:
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Sounds like you have the dogs in wrong. I can't give you anymore i fo than that without having he bike in front of me.
 
Here's a picture of the shifter cog's, This was taken with just the clutch basket out. You can see one bolt with a allen head. I take it this is not the bolt that comes lose since earlier discussions concluded that the shifter assembly has to come apart. Can some one point out in this picture where that bolt is located? Thanks in advance.. Steve
IMG_2219.JPG
 
Steve-oh said:
Here's a picture of the shifter cog's, This was taken with just the clutch basket out. You can see one bolt with a allen head. I take it this is not the bolt that comes lose since earlier discussions concluded that the shifter assembly has to come apart. Can some one point out in this picture where that bolt is located? Thanks in advance.. Steve
View attachment 14966
Click to expand...
You can barely see its half covered by the shift mechanism. See the half circle in the center of the shifter is the allen.
 
Thanks, thats great.. gotta love C/H.. great bunch guys here always willing to help a fellow rider : )

S
 
I removed the shifter linkage which exposed the allen headed shaft. Used an allen socket and found the the shaft to be tight. So during reassembly does the power/exhaust valve have to be timed? I didn't see any timing marks on the gears. When I lifted the case half off, the power valve set up just fell off to the side. It looks like I just have to set it back in place and line up the ball and stud linkage?? That left outer case half was a bit of a donkey to lift off.
 
For my '11 wr300 my dealer recommended Maxima MTL Fluid 80wt. I've only got about 100 miles on the bike so far (just got it two months ago) and no issues have surfaced yet. Starting in gear is possible, but a few more kicks are usually needed than when in neutral. Also, when the bike is cold, in gear, and not running, the clutch is not completely disengaging with the lever fully pulled in; hence, I'm not able to push my bike around w/out the engine turning over. My '01 cr500 is also like this, and I run the standard honda hp trans oil 80w/85w. Does everyone else's bike behave this way???
 
Steve-oh said:
I removed the shifter linkage which exposed the allen headed shaft. Used an allen socket and found the the shaft to be tight. So during reassembly does the power/exhaust valve have to be timed? I didn't see any timing marks on the gears. When I lifted the case half off, the power valve set up just fell off to the side. It looks like I just have to set it back in place and line up the ball and stud linkage?? That left outer case half was a bit of a donkey to lift off.
Click to expand...

You don't have to do any timing on the PV. Just get it back together right.
 
Brian Scott said:
For my '11 wr300 my dealer recommended Maxima MTL Fluid 80wt. I've only got about 100 miles on the bike so far (just got it two months ago) and no issues have surfaced yet. Starting in gear is possible, but a few more kicks are usually needed than when in neutral. Also, when the bike is cold, in gear, and not running, the clutch is not completely disengaging with the lever fully pulled in; hence, I'm not able to push my bike around w/out the engine turning over. My '01 cr500 is also like this, and I run the standard honda hp trans oil 80w/85w. Does everyone else's bike behave this way???
Click to expand...

Yeah, most every bike I've ever had acts that way.
 
It a Euro bike the clutches just drag on them. Its like a trait of a Euro bike. They are getting better. I use ATF and swap it out after each race.And will start in gear when hot if you boot it hard.Also shifts under a load well with the ATF.
 
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